racer

www.rockymountainatv.com

here it is sredish. coincidentally its a long f'in way. a long f'in way

i had no idea so many good shee-people (no offense) were in OK. like jim at passion, dave at noss, and lonnie at sandtrax. the first will build you a runnin mother of a motor, the second will give it some compression, and then you can have your shit dyno'd locally. BTW hes in hominy. now where is hominy?

i used to love SPL. its so involved getting the ports correctly sized and for the air space of your car and the thiele small parameters of the speaker. not to mention braggin rights. i had the loudest single speaker in a school of 2200 with a kicker L7 12". that was until some jack ass got his daddy to buy him the $1500 10,000 watt max 18" kicker solo X as well as the 12 amps it took to run it, and the extra batteries and 0ga. wiring. fuckin cheater.

ive done SPL only, but i have no idea how sq is done.

oh hell. im sure it needs some bleeding. just start turnin shit until air comes out. when the air is followed by H. fluid shut that screw off, or put the plug back in, whatever it takes. cheers

damn right. with acceleration and braking like that he will totally win the vert drags.

would a lectron 50 mm pass enough air for a stroker? because if someone did that it would be totally unique. and freakin awesome!

hell yes, ROTT was the coolest game ever back in the day.

loco you have one sweet banshee . not to step on your toes, but what would you estimate youve go in it, as it sits. like how much would it run me to have mine looking somewhere like it. its kinda ugly now but man, imagine the tail you could pull with a ride like that.

dont let it touch the pipes. or you can say good bye engine ice

yeah, i think its supposed to do that. watch out for those guys at RM atv. always tryin to jack up my tab with fuel oil and tranny oil.

ive thought about that too, but i decided to go with the gasket. im sure itd leak since the edges where the case meets the cover isnt thick enough for a decent bead of y-bond to be laid down.

I may be wrong for asking this, but is 50:1 ratio a little to much? Maybe that is the PROBLEM. You want to mix 4oz per gallon. youve got it backwards. 50:1 is leaner than 4 oz per gallon. because that ratio is 32:1. the higher the left number the less oil in the fuel

theres one at a local shop getting a 7 hundred something big bore kit. its already got a lift and some beefy tires on ITP wheels, with a warn winch. not a bad lake quad at all.

guys i drew up some hubs on there for the rear and for them to be milled from 35mm thick 7075 with the holes already drilled, edges chamfered i think and have all the corners rounded, it was only gonna be like $150 for the pair. and thats shipped. now if i can just figure out how to do the splines.

f*ck a brick, thats things a damn tank

the plate or cutting head is not for the longer rod, it is for the added stroke length. pistons with a higher wrist pin location are used for the longer rod a plate or cut head is used for the longer stroke well, actually a plate can be used with a LR setup when you use stock style pistons. the plate is 5mm thick to nullify the effect of the rod length. i run one because i couldnt find the pistons i wanted in the size i needed for a long rod crank.

if youre going to get a stroker your probably going to port it. to adjust the durations and timing and just so you dont waste some of that power. so if youre gonna have it ported why not just do it when you have it all apart. however when you port it you need bore it as well, this clean up rough edges and nasty little things that can tear that motor to pieces. and since youre gonna get new pistons anyways with the bore job you can just order long rod pistons. so if you really think about, it'd be a mistake not to get a longrod crank. that all make sense?

the longer rod reduces side-load stress on the pistons. this reduces skirt breakage and adds to the efficiency of the motor. about the plate. im not sure if you can mill a head that far so thats why they run a plate. if you dont want to run a plate get wiseco 795 series pistons. they have a 5mm higher wrist pin placement and are designed for the use of londrod cranks with out the 5mm spacer plate at the base of the jugs. i dont know that it actually makes the bike any faster. if thats what you have in mind and are going to get a crank, get a stroker but that a different story. the whole idea behind the LR is to make the motor more reliable and scrape a bit more power out of it. it really just reduces HP waste by lessening friction on the piston. ok i think that covers the whole LR story. who wants to talk about strokers?

i like games like wolfenstein and other older games. the newer ones are all about robots and mystical creatures. f**k that i wanna kill some people. its no fun running around deciding if you robozombie 8.0 will defeat the horrific powers of the flying horseman. ok, now that that's over. can someone email me wolfenstein?

on the topic of tachs: are they all digital or can you get a dial readout model. i cant see any point in a dig. setup wince you cant really see it when youre riding anyways.

17 in me right now weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i did ok with just clear vinyl hose. until it touched the pipes. steer clear of that and you are ok