baldwinville

i have and i didnt really notice much difference

easy to answer/ one biger carb is better for bottom end and two big carbs will scream at the top of you throttle

too true the first mod to any shee should be pipes and a new high flow filter ans rejet that sucka to run right. if you dont think it runs right use the choke trick to see if it is or not.

you can go nuts on a shee and get mad horse power. you just need to set it up for the type of riding that you do. some things you could do are stroke the crank mill the head change the timing bigger carbs different sprocket combos get CPI pipes run race gaslike 105 or 110 octane get a cool head with smaller cc domes all kinds of stuff the sky is the limit with the hp for a shee

ok to make your pipes look pretty on a budget. my dad has an 85 atc 250r and he hit them with some elbow grease and steel wool then got some high temp paint and painted it again and no problems yet and that was bout 4 years ago. there are many diff colors you should be able to find some shade of silver that will look ok

wel i went with CPI in frames over the T%s but if you got a screw coming lose then it is one of 2 things. you either need to put on some locktite ot you have striped the screw threads out and need biger ones.

after looking at the web site for the v force reeds the low tension looks like it should be used for wide open gas or no gas uses such as drag racing. and the high tension for any other use, the low tension make more since to be used in drag bikes because it goes open then shut . not being open and shut more than a few time a minute. if i lost you the may be this wil help. if you ride a trail or dunes how many time do you get on the gas and off againthen the need for high tensions to help the life of the reed is there. if it is set to low tension the the reed will open farther and faster for drag reasons. hope this helps

for the grease gun issue the tip of it should be adjustable. the tip can be screwed tighter or losser try to losen it up a little bit if it pops off while your pumpinig then tighten it up a little more. as for adding zerks i wouldnt. if they aint there from the factory then it dont need to bee greased

Just take off the kick starter and then take it apart. clean it really good with brake cleaner. if the oring is brokes then find one the same size at your hardware store. i have had the same problem and never replaced it just cleaned it out. cheap easy and youll be riding in no time

br8es is the stock plug. br9es is a colder burning pulg and works well if you have mods and an over heating problem. as for oil i have had my shee since 2000. its an 01 and i have ran nothing but yamalube at 40:1. i ust popped my head for a milled on and i can still see the cross hatches in the hon from the factory. i rum the highest octane pump gas you can get. anything over 91 octane is fine unless you have really high compression from small domes on a cool head

ok. all you guys have good ideas but here is the deal. the over flow tank is located behind the air box and the top line on it is the overflow tube. it runs up to the front of the shee and up by the top of the radiator and then down by the pipe on the right. if your over flow can is too full going down hill will cause the fluid to go out the overflow top tube and on your pipes. i learned this my going to JIMSBANSHEE ZONE.COM. he has pics that you can relocate the over flow can to the front of the bike. i didnt do it. but that is cause i didnt want to. you can shorten it and put it in the swingarm area if you want. but then you need to check your fluid more often

there is another way to do it. you can get flush mount valve stems to go in the original holes. it makes puting air in a little tricky but it beats putiing more holes in your rims. i did it and got alomost 5 inches of offset. also i flipped my rears around and got more offset thet way.