squish
-
Posts
442 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by squish
-
-
UM racing makes crap skid plates. Nothing lined up.
-
I ride in mud and water in woods races. I have no problems with the toomey two into one filter. I have the foam one and it was a little improvement over the k&n in the airbox. It leaned out a little not enough for a jet size but a clip on the needle.
-
shane is good
-
# look down in sig
-
Ordered a UM belly skid plate. The back two holes did not line up. The bolts were too long. The brackets were not thick enough to come in contact with the plate. I tried to email them twice two different ways. no joy. So I returned it. Shit company. Never got a reply. I think they get the stuff all welded in mexico. Looks like junk too.
-
Hey guys have you ever taken a look at the off road race trucks,long travel buggys etc. They all use heims. Thats because they have more movement,stronger and can be used in a variety of uses. If you have cheap heims they will wear fast thats no lie. Its like chains. You get a cheap one its gonna let you down.Your chains,rear axle bearings and those of you who run TM Design chain guides will recieve more abuse from the roost from your front tires than the front end of the arms will any day. I have tons of call reguarding people with froze up ball joints. The are made in china and are soft as nerf. For those who say heims don't work good in sand had cheap ones. ALL sand cars are totally heim suspended even the off road trucks are using a sperical ball or heim. Helicopters are full of heims and they are running in the sand right now in the Middle East. Its like everything else. Theres good and crap. I use aircraft grade only. I can get some for 3.50 each and the are junk. I use the 20.00 each kind that last. If you don't take care of your chain how long will it last???????
Gary
QUICKSAND
I race harescrambles once a month very close to gncc racing. The abuse my arms receive in one race is the same most rec. riders arms see in two years. I have the original heims that gary sent with the arms. Two years old. Oh and the two actuators on each of the space shuttle main engines that gimble them use heims not ball joints.
-
what ever you do don't race gas with pump gas I knew a chemist through my machine shop that I use for my car he told me that when you mix the two together you end up with a lower octane level that will be more prone to detanation and that is defanatly what you don't want I know there are some of you that think that I am full of shit for saying this but if you want to save your motor don't go cheap just spend the extra $10 and not have to think twice about it Just my $0.2 .
No
-
Hey here is my old wiesco with a namura piston paired with a pin going through them. Look at the difference at the window placement. whats up with that?
-
You need to contact the guy at fullflight. Thats him. Look on ebay. Same sucka
-
CALL SHANE FOR SHOCK SERVICE (219) 313-1424 Does it all
-
-
Its not v twin. Its opposed.
-
I was thinking of putting a through hull fitting on an old LP tank. Strapping it on the back and running a hose from it to the intake. Super boost!!! In your face!!!
-
I dont know what to say to that?
-
They are not thinner. If anything thicker. And alot more resilient. If you use the stock reed stops carbon fiber reeds almost certainly will never break. Stock reed stops provide a good transition for the reed. Reeds in an aftermarket cage break mostly because of the stop that it used. There is none. Just a good breaking point at the very end of were its mounted.
-
From rickystator site.
We are so proud of our full Ball Joints!
There is a lot of talk about them but here are some of the facts for your review.
A - Is Ricky Stator's full ball joint which has the most degrees of angle movement of all except the MOOG es2074 © which is the same.
It has a 16mm threaded shaft and is essentially a copy of the TRX250R as far as the stud and socket is concerned. The ball has a lot of contact with the socket making for a more distributed load which results in better wear characteristics.
Our ball joints have been tested in every long distance race and has won them all.
B - Is the OEM Honda from a TRX250R.
C - Is the MOOG tie-rod end from a Mazda truck. Probably used by a bazillion fabricators for at least 15 years with good success. Unfortunately it is a tie-rod end that requires greasing since it is metal to metal and has the spring (that occasionally breaks) for shock absorbing - good in tie-rod applications but not for ball joints. The threaded shaft is not always threaded straight and even also.
D - Is the VW transporter tie-rod end. It has a 14 mm shank which we feel is too small (bet the guy that wrecked this one feels the same). Notice since it is a tie-rod end it has the spring also. This type has been used for years since the stud fits into the Honda spindle without machining.
E - Is the "Italian" made so called ball joint. This is a typical auto tie-rod end as you can see.
To order parts from Ricky Stator call:
760-787-0094
-
where can I get 710 fluid?
-
To answer your question is that I tried and they said they could not make a stock shock as good as their own....thats why everyone keeps mentioning works and elkas. Only certain companies will build a stock shock and say its just as good as the real thing. If someone thinks they can build a stock shock to be just as good as my ohlins or other peoples axis, then send me a set and I'll give my full report on them. I'll be going to Glamis this Feb and will test a set out. I'm not brand specific, but I do give my opinions good and bad about any product I've ever tested either in the field or on the dyno. Everything I learned is from my own experience, not from what others say....Everyone that has met me knows that I'll dial them in before testing so it will be accurate. I've done a lot of questioning, testing and research on this subject and would love to find a stock shock w/ superior valving for other hq'ers..as well as myself.
We will have to use overnight shipping both ways. As I race every other weekend. Is approximately five days sufficient? If that is not enough time for your scientific professional certified opinion, then after the season perhaps.
-
My last thought on the subject, since everybody's mind is already made up, and not open to other options. Why on earth are you comparing Works anything to someone like PEP, Axis, TCS or whoevers new rear. Of course those companies are going to be better than anything works can put out. Send a rear to TCS or Derisi or someone like that, and then compare it to a new rear. Don't just base your comparison of rebuilt rears on something that Works gave you.
Who sent there rear shock to works?
-
Unless you are pounding on it hard, reservior size is a smaller factor.
But, when you are, you have more heat dissapation with the greater surface area, more oil to break down less (more consistant valving under stress), and sometimes you can mount the reservior in a cooler spot,
Yes, the effects are marginal, but they do make it better.
After a good ride, feel your rezzy's. They get hot if you pound on it. That breaks down the shock oil after time.
Why not make a radical heat sink resovoir with about 50 ft of braided hose you can coil up. How about a tiny co2 bottle with a trickle purge on it. Or if your rich use LH2. 12v travel fridge mounted on the back? Dry ice? Just plain ice cubes? Some hypergols? Micro fans? Heat exchanger using the gas w/recirc pump?
-
Im thinking resovoir size is a small factor. why arent they the size of a tall boy?
-
With the woods riding I dont recomend the zps shock for the rear. The banshee sits low as it is. The dog bone is going to sit to close to the ground.
-
I have only sent shocks to works. They are ok. Dealing with shane was a %200 improvement. Told him I ride in the worst conditions possible for 2 hours straight (hairscrambles) My bike is like a cady now. Its nice to be able to sit on the seat while going through the whoops.
-
you guys are silly
Toomey 2 into 1
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
I only needed to change clip on needle one notch.