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Posts posted by squish
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Who am I? I was the first guy who planted yfz arms and shocks on a shee!
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Its been awhile. I just started looking for another she
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I ran the xc klaws 20s for years with a -1swingarm. I like that setup the best for woods racing. I tried the holeshot hds a very heavy tire.
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Anybody ride a banshee in FTR
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Guy treated my like crap because I only needed three jets. Hope his buisness goes under. Just went to the stealership and bought them.
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that must have awfull bump steer
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So if someone gets killed on this redneck set up you have stupid insurance?
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I have hit trees woods racing with my quicksand(banshee) and laeger(250r) that has put me over the bars. As I was getting up I knew my front end was wrecked, but they werent. To this day there is nothing wrong with either set. They are made of chro molly.
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Save time and money. call shane
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no i was talking about full flights what the topic says
What about quick sand? Nobody likes em? Ive hit trees with em that has thrown me over the bars. I get up thinking oh crap my front end is trashed. They are straight as new.
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Whats that saying? You get what you pay for.
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Look like the pro/s with bigger resie
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Call shane
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Talk about support. I have never seen such a dedicated person. I was so impressed thats why I put him in my sig.
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Thats right Indiana.
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Illinois I think.
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call shane too. He still does it.
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Shane rebuilt my rear and made it zps. It was big difference. Better deal than buying a new one.
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Why did you use a link? With a shock that long you could have gone straight to the arm.
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Hi,
I just bought a 2002 banshee. Its got pro circuit pipes, K&N, handguards, and holeshots. I would like to race some cross country races strictly for fun. I dont really plan on being too competitive. Im thinking about hitting the last round of the GNCC series in Indiana. What do i have to have to race a GNCC? Are their any other cross country series around southern MI or northern IN?
my list so far goes like this:
Im going to ditch the airbox and stock style K&N for a set of pods and outerwears
New holeshots before the race, probably the GNCC versions
head will be shaved by then
I will need motocross boots i would imagine. What about a chest protector?
What about things like number plates? I know nothing about ATV number plates.
tear offs?
I guess im just not sure about a lot of things in the ATV racing scene. What about fueling up? I assume i wont be able to run 2 hours on one tank of gas?
I raced over two years on a banshee in harescrambes in Fl. Your stock gas tank is no good with bigger jets. Clamp on pods will be fine unless there is deep water. I used the toomey 2 into 1. Boots are a must and tear offs. Get good grips and gloves. 22inch tires up front. My biggest improvment I noticed was the -1 swingarm and sending my rear shock to shane. The bike turned alot easier around trees. Dont worry so much about increasing power. Put your money into shocks. My chest protector gets abused by tree limbs and rocks. I also see alot of people without them. The next thing you should buy is a steering stabilizer. This will alow you to go back to work monday. A good 100oz camelbak since your first race.
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Call shane
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Call shane. Faster, cheaper, more friendly, knows what the hell he is talking about and wont bullshit ya.
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I think they have gone downhill after the new owner. My alloybolts kit sucks balls. The bolts just stretch and wont toruqe and the nuts are a joke. I wouldnt give you a dime for an alloyboltz kit. I am chaning all my alloybolts out because they just get loose and make shit leak all the time. Stock is the safe bet for most bolts.
The bolt should have a grade on it. 8.8, 10.9 for metric or 2,5, or 8 witch are the same as the hash marks. From what I have seen alot of stainless quality bolts do vary. Anything from 18-8 to A-2 and diamonds with hashes but a quality bolt should have markings on the head instead of its size. I have seen bolts at ace hardware that had the size on it with thread count. A stainless bolt stretching is strange im thinking it has some aluminum alloy in it to give it the stainless look. A decent stainless bolt has around 40,000 tensil strength. Now if your looking for a bolt that you can polish and not rust iconel is a good bolt that is usally splined and has threaded open head that allows to screw a transducer into to measure its length while its being stretched. The machine to measure its value is expensive though.
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Im working on a yfz engine swap or frame swap I havent decided.
Im Back!
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted
I know. I tried to talk everyone out of it and just get aftermarket stuff oh well.