2k4_Shee

why do u have to ditch the airbox when u get the 2:1 toomey filter, im about to buy the t5 complete kit with everything but im not sure i like the sound of ditching my airbox...

so what ur sayin is with the toomey filter i have to ditch my airbox...

I ride a little bit of everything, and try to avoid mud and water in most cases. I am still going to keep the stock air box regardless, maybe remove the lid or just modify a few vents in it...I was just looking at the toomey 2 into 1 setup and the filter looks tiny compared to the adapter plate and K&N filter....

Would i be better off just buying the toomey t5 pipes and silencers and buying the k&n adapter plate and running a k&n or buying the toomey t5 kit that comes with the toomey 2 into 1 filter, jets, etc...Just wondering if anyone chose one and then switched later bc they didnt like it...

you have a pm, looking to buy a set of t5's...

Agreed, best prices on everything and good service...

so the stock 14/41 is better than the 15/41 ?

is there really a better aftermarket air filter set-up, i mean i know they have clamp ons, 2 into 1, but what works good... I try to avoid mud and amounts of water at all cost but sometimes u cant help it, k&n w/ outerwear... **On a side note the +4 degree key should be just fine on a stock shee, right?

Im a complete n00b when it comes to modding a shee but i have been reading up here lately and would like to see your opinions on this set-up. 2004 banshee with T5 pipes and silencers, 13 front / 42 rear sprockets, v force reeds, new tires ( i-razrs, or similar ) +4 degree key, a new air filter (not sure which one just yet) , and lightened flywheel,...To me it sounds lgood but im here to find out from the pro's so lets hear your suggestions or comments... Also i ride trails, climb hills, open fields, hard and soft pack conditions...Precciate It..

stock?

send all pics to xxjustinxx01@hotmail.com

A set of pipes and silencers in good condition, post what u have along with a price and pic, Precciate It -Justin

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bizzump...

At the moment im running stockers and i hate them. Yesterday, we went riding and i found out how bad they really are when shooting hills and ridin' wet slick trails. So im in the market for some rear tires that do well on tall steep hills, good in both hard and soft pack, and open fiels. I drag also in these types of terrain/conditions as well, im just lookin for the tire that bites the best but saves u a few bucks..I searched and i found klaws, and stock 400 ex tires are pretty popular, any suggestions...Precciate It -Justin

where are u located and do u have any more pics ? I have an 04' shee the same exact color scheme as yours...

yea i ride with mostly thumpers and they are giving me a hell of a run for my money bc they start off like a mofo. I want a pipe to be able to jump on them soon and hold them down...I plan to do other mods as well such as reeds, k&n, maybe a sprocket change but not sure yet, and i was thinking about someday maybe a little motor work like a small port or big bore kit...Basically i want the pipe that will let me jump on the down low and hold them down...

in your opinion which way do u see this working out better. A) bottom end sprocket and a high rev pipe or B)top end sprocket and a bottom end pipe the more i read the better im understanding the pipe/powerband hits but as far as gearing would you be better changing both sprockets or just changin one? Btw what is the stock gearing...Larger number of teeth=more top end, correct?

how does this work? Say i buy a pipe thats has killer low end and ok the rest of the rpm's and just install a top end sprocket. That way my low end pipe will pick up the slack of the top end sprocket..does this work or has anyone tried it? Bc a low end sprocket and all over pipe would be overkill ?

Indeed i have raced both and have won and lost against both in stock trim. I found out never race on lose gravel with stock tires, *shh* i lost to a z400 on lose gravel bc all i did was spin like hell through 5th gear, then we raced on pavement and i handed it to him hard. I lost to both the 450's 1 time a piece and beat them 2 times a piece bc of better starts (we we all in stock form). With gearing what should i swap the front or the back i know if i change the front tooth it is basically like swapping 2 sizes in the rear, correct? What would u recommend gearing size so im not completely killed on top end.. thx for the help guys also thats why i was asking about the gnarly as i have heard the have killer low-end, but im not sure if they just die after that

basically what im gathering is that the fattie's and toomey's (t5) are very similar with the exception that the toomey may have a slight higher peak but the torque of the fatties are higher and come on a lil stronger? Which pipe would do better against piped 450r's and yfz's...Anyone have opinions on gnarlys?

I have a stock 04 shee and i have decided to pipe it. I know this is an age old topic and i searched before i posted but i didnt find what i was lookin for..I dont plan on doing any major motor work maybe a little down the road but no time soon..I ride trails, climb hills, fields and drags are also sometimes in there but not too often..What pipe is right for me to really wake this sleeping beast up..I want a pipe that really hits hard and is reasonable...Any help is appreciated.. Also what pipes would give be the best run against 450's with pipes ? *puts on flame suit, and grabs the water bucket*

Toomey T5's or FMF SST, Gnarlys or PC which pipe will be better for my banshee. I dont plan on doing any engine work just climbing hills, trail riding, jumps, open fields.

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