shortbus

what do the plugs look like after a WOT plug chop?

sounds good man thanx!!!

I've heard that detonation can cause plugs to come loose.

No I mean to help seal the gaskets. Spreading a light coat of it on both sides of the gaskets to help them stick.

Can yamabond be used on base and headgaskets? Can it withstand the heat and pressure?

Ok I took the cylinders off I can see where the gaskets arent sealing around both plugs. The rubber plugs don't seem like they had a good seal. All the sealant stuff I put on the plugs and down in the hole is gone. What kind of sealant should I use on these rubber plugs? RTV? High temp RTV? I used gasket shelac last time. The book says to use GASKASINCH,what the hell is that?

ratio is 40:1 golden spectro. Man I'm dead positive its not trany oil. When I changed the base gaskets yesterday they had antifreeze marks on them where the plugs are and had antifreeze in the lower crank area. I just checked the radiator and hoses and they are not clogged. I know its not the crank seal because its coming from both the left and right pipes.

Water pump impeller looked fine when appart. I can't hardly even tell if the coolant is circulating with the cap off. It deffinetly doesn't rise when it gets hot. I took the cap off the radiator when it was hot and nothin sprayed out??

What O-Ring are you reffering to?

21 huh? Long time drinker/first time legal??? Go from bar to bar and tell them its your 21st they will hook you up for free.

is it possible that the radiator is building to much pressure and spewing the collant into the cylinders through the rubber plugs. Maybe the raiator is clogged? I can run it with the cap off the radiator and it wont overflow but it gets hot???

yup

The shits dripping out both pipes now?? wtf? The right pipe is dripping bad, the left pipe is dripping about half of what the right one is. Under the right side pipe I seriously have about a twelve inch cicle of black oil on the concrette just from it idling!! I'm dead possitive everything is sealed in the lower end. Everthing was torqued to spec with an inch pound torque wrench checked everywhere for cracks/pinholes in castings. I really really really have no clue what to do.

I think I spoke to soon. It's still dripping out that right side pipe. At one point it was dripping out both pipes??? I'm wondering if the carb is crap? It seems to run fine but I still don't have any idle adjustment. I think it's time to get the 12 guage out after it.

Back together and running now!!! NO SMOKE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I pulled the rubber plugs out and they didn't have any kind of sealant on them. So I put gasket shelac all over them and down in the hole they go in. I also Used a tip off of a tube of rtv and put it on my tube of yamabond,worked good. I put that stuff on everything that had a mating surface and put it on thick. It barely smokes out the right side and hardly any out the left,,,better than my buddies brand new banshee. I want to say thanx to everyone who helped me get this figured out, I owe you one. GREAT SITE!

Ok, I removed the engine and tore it all down to pieces. On the bottom of both jugs there is a rubber plug. Around these plugs on the base gasket it looks a little wet. Not much but if I push on the plug some coolant leaks out. Can I replace these plugs or remove them and fill the holes with high temp rtv? Both base gaskets are just barely wet around the plugs so I'm not possitive that coolant was leaking into the cylinder. Also I looked at the right crank seal and it looks good but there are some very small grooves worn into the gear/collar that the seal rides on. Is this gear normaly replaced on a lower end rebuild? The grooves don't look deep enough to cause it to leak. And should I put some yamabond on the outer edge of the crank seals to help them seal in there bore? I need to do this the right way this time so I have NO leaks.

The compression is 122 psi on both cylinders. I think I have it figured out. It's getting worse by the minute of running time. I believe the case halves are leaking oil into the crankcase area. I used yamabond number 4 on the case halves but found that it was drying very fast when I was puting it on. It was hard to get the stuff down around the seals and bearings. By the time I got both case halves coated in the shit, the first one was almost dry. Are there any tricks to doing this or just work fast and aplly a bunch of it. I put it on thin like the directions said to. I really think this is the problem.

The exhaust smells fine. the oil level has not changed at all in about two weeks of riding time. I swapped the plug wires and no change. I swapped the reed cages and inspected the reeds, nothing wrong. The lower end was just rebuilt and I'm possitive its not the crank seal.

The plugs are both black in color. The smoke is blueish white, both sides smell the same. Nothing like sweet or foul smelling. Yes I lubed all seals bearings everything while building it. Actually the quad had these same sypmtoms before rebuilding the bottom end. The reason for the bottom end rebuild is because the crank bearings were bad. the bottom end was rebuilt about 2 weeks ago. The pilot in the carb was a #50 now it has a #48. With the #50 pilot the air screw likes to be at 1.75 turns out, so the #48 should be lean right? It smokes like crazy out the right side with both pilots. Oil ratio is 40:1 golden spectro. I don't think it has an air leak as it is rich on both plugs as it is. But I have not done a leakdown test on it. So I can't rule that out.

This quad has a single 34mm kiehin pj carb (trinity stage IV). Thats whats confusing me.

I have no clue what is going on with this thing. Hopefully someone can help. Here's the deal. When idling the right side exhaust blows TONS of smoke,,, to the point that there is a puddle of oil on the ground underneath it. Right side is barely puffing smoke. The idle adjustment has hardly any effect on idle rpm,s except for No idling/way to high idling. there is no happy medium. It fowls plugs after about 20 mins of riding. It runs good past half throttle. I just replaced the crankshaft and installed new seals, wristpin bearings. The pistons were new when i bought the quad (about a month ago) but I noticed who ever bored the jugs sucked. The piston to cylinder clearance is not good, i didn't measure but it looked close to about .020 per side (outch, I know). This is the only thing I can think of that might be causing these problems??? I tried swapping reed cages side to side,swapped plug wires, no effect. The compression on both cylinders is 120psi, thats why I left the topend like it was. The quad has a TRINITY STAGE IV intake with a 34mm kehien PJ carb I know the right side crank seal can suck oil from the tranny and I'm not rulling that out but I think it is unlikely because I just changed them and prelubed the new ones good. I don't think it is burning antifreeze or oil because niether levels have changed. I dont know what else it could be besides the piston to cylinder clearance. Can this effect the amount of fuel drawn in to the cylinders?

My budy has a shee with the same 2 into 1 settup so I went off his jetting specs at first. I ended up with a 50 pilot, Middle needle clip and a 175 main. The motor likes the air screw at 1 3/4 turns out. WOT plug chop looks good (dark tan). The moddrange on this thing is CRAZY!!! Thanx for your help people.

It's back together now!!! I went and got some pilots and mains. I'm gonna start with the 45 pilot and leave the main. Found some cool stuff while in the motor to,,, Hinson clutch basket,,,Brand new wiseco pistons(no carbon on top at all), Fresh bores with cross hatching still in them. Cylinders look to be ported and polished!!!

Still need one

How much? Bearings must be in good shape rods also. What year did it come out of?