bt's shee

just post a price, have cash!! shipping will be to 43040. thanks! bt

If your sale falls through I have arrangements for frame. bt

There is a chance I will be working in Houston next week and through labor day weekend. Maybe we can set something up where you can meet me so I can check out the frame. I will be near the Minute Maid Stadium. bt

I made some phone calls and have learned quite a bit. If there are any builders within driving distance of Columbus Ohio, please let me know! We have Lancaster Sport cycles, MJ USA, Quad concepts, and a few others around Ohio. I drive up through MI quite a bit as well and I am sure there is a shop servicing the dune riders there. My feeling was that sending a motor FedEx for $50 to a sweet banshee shop would be worth the premium. As far as shipping goes, my recommendation is to grab the ole hand saw and dumpster dive for some scrap plywood and 2x4s to make a small wooden crate. That way you can re-use it later on and the builder can just stuff the motor back in it and send it back home. Something of interest that I have not seen brought up is a shop in CA named Mota Carrera http://www.motocarrera.com/ This looks like a shop worth calling as well!! They work on RD350, RZ350, Banshee, ... yep I got it they all have the same motor Has anyone ever called these guys? Thanks again! bt

I have a disassembled motor from a '95 that has been sitting around and I am considering a stroker. My first thought was to send everything to FAST and have them check it out and get back with me. Any other options the members would suggest? thx

I am looking for a stock 1997 (1997-2000 will work) RM125 PWK36 carb. Anyone got one? bt's shee

Call of duty 2 comes with headset, remote, controller, cables, sales reciept, hard drive, and fast shipping (overnight to cali is about $60)

$600, shipping included

Swapped out the slide on the right side with one that had the black polished off and it stopped sticking...

I took the bansh out today with the seat / air box lid / filter removed and watched the slides using a mirror while I rode. It turns out the right side is the only side sticking, and it is hung about 1/2 way up. I polished all of the sharp edges of each slide before riding today, and it helped a little. Nothin like sittin on the grab bar with the throttle in one hand and a mirror in the other on a bike that has a sticky throttle. I got a couple wheelies out of it..... The slide alignment pin in the right carb seem to have rough edges, and I think I know why. During the carb assembly after installing the TORS removal kit, I put the #$@% slides in backwards and ran it for a minute, unitl I figured oout my dumass mistake. Chances are, this caused the slides to bang around inside the carbs and chunk up some of the smooth surfaces. How do you remove the alignment pins from the carb? It looks like there is a flathead slot in the outside of the pin. I tried to turn it, but it didn't go, and I stopped before I tore it up. Thanks for the help...

Slide polish trick didn't seem to help. At WOT, shoiuld the slides by topped out in the carb, or should you be able to see some amount of the slide when the thumb throttle is in the WOT position?? Maybe I am jamming the slides into the top of the carbs. Rigth now, you can see just a bit (1/16") of the slide bottom when the throttle is pinned. Thanks

I have installed the tors removal / idle kit and checked the carbs three times for problems, but I cannot find out what is causing the throttle to stick. I have a brand new toomey cable, new mains (for fatties), new carb screws, and have gone as far as setting the idle screw so that it doesn't interfere with the slides. During the tors kit install, I beveled the idle screw hole in the carb ID and checked it several times for burrs /deformation, everything. This is on a 2004 Banshee LE. The thumb switch come back to its rest position, wiggling the cable doesn't fix the stick, tapping the carbs deosn't seem to help (but I am usually riding in a flat field 3/4 the way through 2nd or 3rd when I fiddling with it), and the slides still have the black carbon layer on them, with no real scuffs except near the mouth of the taper. The only thing I can think is that the little guide in the wall of the slide tunnel got tweaked a little and is causing the carb to hang up. Any advice would be great. Thanks

Gimme a price on the pipes if they are aftermarket and a price on the frame.

I'm looking for a set of pipes for my '04 LE stocker. Mostly woods and WOT field riding. Some impromptu dragging, but not very often. Kicking myself in the ass for sellin my old LRD's on here for $150. fok. Looking for the same deal (yeah right). Send me some pics and shipped prices on a set of PC's, T5's, LRD's with silencers. [email protected]

I synchronized the carbs using the visual technique and my hand. Did'nt pay attention to the little windows in the side of the carbs or the slide taper. THe slides were in backwards. duh

I have an all stock 2004 Banshee. The bike was jettted correctly (good lookin plugs and relatively smooth operation) with the TORS installed. After installing the Motion Pro kit, Sheee is running rich everywhere, but the top end is not real bad. I have checked the float level (21mm) cleaned the carbs 3 times, lowered the needle to the 4th position, and tried tweeking the pilot screw in 1/4 turn increments from 3 turns out to 1.5 turns out. Lots of white smoke, plugs soaking wet everytime. Anybody have this happen before?

I am near columbus ohio. Same guy selling the Camaro SS.

More Pics The mileage is 24500, rather than 22300. Pics taken last summer.

Picture

I am located in Marysville, Ohio. Just North of Columbus, Ohio. The car is an M6, all stock, no mods or tinkering whatsoever. Brett

Just tried to trade my 2001 SS in, and the dealer offered me $13k. The car is in great condition and only has 24,500 miles on it. I about got sick. Before I let a dealership rip me off, the car is being sold for the best offer. Anyone interested?

I would like to trade up for an aftermarket crank. I have: 2001 Front Shocks, 2002 R. Shock, Rear Linkage, Swingarm, Carrier, Axle, Radiator, A-arms, F. Hub/Rotor/Spindles, Rear Hubs, Axle Hub, DG Bumper, Gas Tank, Tie Rods, Steering Stem, Seat, Grab Bar, Brakes Make offer.

I have a dissassembled engine from a '95 shee that had a oily mud layer all over the cases and various parts. What are some good cleaners / cleaning methods to really make the parts come clean? I'v brushed alot of oily dirt away, but the hard to reach areas look terrible.

Where are you located? Close to Ohio hopefully. I'm interested in the limited.

Updated list. Guess I found out what my bargain items were...... Make me an offer on this stuff. 2001 Front Shocks (both) $50 2002 R. Shock $150 Rear Linkage $40 Swingarm $50 Axle $75 Radiator $50 Upper A-arm (each) $50 Lower A-arm (each) $70 F. Hub/Rotor/Spindle (each) $120 Rear Hubs $30 Axle Hub $25 Engine Cases $150 Complete Clutch (stock w/ barnett fibers) $120 Carbs w/ TORS elim & cable (both) $75 Intakes Boysen Reeds $75 Cylinders (both +0.060) $220 Renthal Bars $20 DG Bumper $40 Gas Tank $50 Tie Rods w/ joints $30 Steering Stem $50 Seat (no cover ) $40 Grab Bar $40 Stator $50 Rear Plastic (ugly, but no cracks) $20