Trick2stroke

Any stock parts, im gonna peice together a shee to mod off of... Thx..

Hmm im kinda interested... I would be willing to go 350, I'll get back to you wether or not I can buy it, not that I don't have the money, just have to get it oked wit the parents....(sucks being 16) If you are interested in the price lemme know, maby I can go alitle higher, just send me a private message... Thx..

I see, thats great, I was gonna get an after market stator or sumthin to put out more watts for the brighter lights.. I realy think ima do it, seems to be worth it.. Thx again, I realy appreciate all the help...

I hear that the 2 into 1 carbs WILL NOT flow enough gas for a ported/stroker engin From what I know it would be fine with pipes and a other wise stock engin, but if you do plan on porting ect don't waist your money on a 2 into 1, it won't beable to feed the engin enough... If you'r trying to do a sleeper bike, then you could get some pipes and have them powdercoated with high temp black... Like they said your not gonna get the full postitial out of you mods with stock pipes... A carb realy shouldn't be before pipes, but its your bike mod however you like..

Keep in mind, I think this is based on breaking in a new top end, not a totally rebuilt engin... I was flipping through the net and stumbled upon a website with some interesting reads. One of which happened to be an artical on engine break in and I thought I would post it here for everyone to read. This is written by a guy name Howard Richards from R.E.D The purpose of the "break-in" procedure is to GRADUALLY wear down the "high spots" on components such as rings, piston skirts, cylinder walls, bearings and races, etc. after a motor is fitted with new items. ALL machined parts are imperfect to a certain degree and therefore have "high" and "low" areas which must be mated to those that they roll or rub against to achieve a good running fit. Problems can arise however in the process because the mere act of "rubbing down" the high spots creates abnormally high friction. Friction creates heat. Heat creates expansion. Expansion reduces running clearances and increases friction. More friction, more heat, more expansion... Pretty soon you can see that you are rubbing off MORE than high spots on each part resulting in premature part wear (LOW spots). This is what happens when a motor is broken in too aggressively. You end up with a motor that, at the very least, has abnormally LARGE running clearances throughout. Thus you now have an unnecessarily shortened remaining life for your "new" motor accompanied by reduced performance. If the motor is really abused during early "new life" running, the tight initial clearances may get closed up completely due to heat and expansion and the rotating or reciprocating parts will SEIZE. So how to control this "running in and mating" of moving parts becomes the question... First, before you even start the motor for the first time, do a "cranking pressure" compression test with a good quality, screw-into-the-spark-plug-hole type compression gage. Ignition off, fuel off, throttle held WIDE OPEN. Kick, pull-rope or cycle the electric starter until the gage reaches its' highest reading and stays there. Note the reading and record it. Don't expect a real high number because the rings and cylinder are not mated yet, but you should see at least 100 psi, sometimes much higher depending on the planned compression ratio, port timing (or camshaft profile if it's a four stroke), etc.. Generally speaking, with fuel, air, spark at approximately the correct time, 100 psi gage pressure and exhaust, the motor will run. I prefer to break-in motors on a petroleum based oil and then switch to a synthetic afterwards (if it's to be done at all). There's lots of opinions on this...... for better or worse, that's mine. My feelings are that "too slippery" an oil will slow down the break-in process too much and I've even seen 600X cross hatched cylinders, chrome and Nikasil bores where the rings never seated and we attributed it to synthetic oils during break-in. If it's a two stroke, you can add a bit of extra pre-mix oil to the fuel, set the oil pump at a slightly higher than normal base setting, or both for the first tank of fuel, but I'd use a petroleum based oil. OK. Start the motor and allow it to run at approximately 1500 rpm or so. Shut the choke off absolutely ASAP! The excess fuel that the choke supplies can wash the oil film off the cylinder walls and overheat the ring faces quickly, especially in a four stroke. ALWAYS shut the choke off ASAP on ANY motor for this same reason. NEVER let a motor run for long periods with the choke on to warm it up. NEVER ride, drive, fly or place under load any motor driven device with the choke on. It is a quick route to early death for the rings. Check immediately for oil and compression leaks around the various gasket sealing locations. ANY LEAKS should be fixed immediately, especially head, base or exhaust gasket areas. If there are none, hold your hand against the cylinder and GENTLY vary the engine speed in neutral between approximately 1500 and 2500 rpm. DO NOT OVER REV! There is no "load" on the engine and over revving is very tough on crankshaft, bearings, etc.! When the engine is warm enough to be uncomfortable on your hand, shut it off. Again check for any leaks. Now let the motor cool down to COLD. THEN, carefully re-torque the head(s) at this time. Now you're ready for your first ride/drive/flight/whatever. Start the motor and warm-up gently exactly as before. When the motor is uncomfortably warm on your hand, stab her in gear and gently accelerate through each gear using about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle as a shift point. DO NOT BOG or LUG the motor. DO NOT "cruise" at a steady rpm. Vary the engine speed up and down at all times. DO NOT OVER REV either! When you reach top gear immediately slow down and ride back to your origin doing the same thing. Limit your initial ride time to 5 to 10 minutes maximum, all the while touching the cylinder frequently with your hand to sense drastic overheating. ANY signs of excessive heating or abnormal engine noises require immediate SHUT DOWN and investigation/cure of the culprit. If in doubt, DO NOT ride/drive/fly back to the garage and then shut it off... TOW it back! When you're done with the initial ride, let it cool down to COLD again. Continue this procedure gradually extending the running time to 10 minutes, then 15 minutes, etc.. You can also gradually get a bit more agressive with throttle application (slightly bigger "handfuls/footfuls" of throttle). Speed up, slow down, constantly varying throttle position and going up and down through the gears. Steady cruising at one engine speed or lugging the motor below its' powerband in a higher gear can cause overheating during break-in... AVOID BOTH! Don't worry so much about too high an rpm as VARYING the rpm. Bursts of throttle allow heating and mild expansion which in turn shaves off those high spots while deceleration allows slight cooling and contraction. Stay away from long hills, carrying a passenger or heavy loads during break-in. After about an hour total riding/driving/flying time has accumulated, recheck cranking compression. As the rings seat, you will see the readings come up and you will also notice improvements in power delivery. Break-in is essentially complete when the readings peak and no longer get higher as more riding time accumulates. For a two stroke, this is typically one to three hours break-in time. A four stroke has a superior oiling system and therefore breaks in more slowly. Two to five hundred miles is frequently required to completely break-in a four stroke. For a closely toleranced street four stroke it often takes 1000 to 1500 miles or even more! I dump the oil and filter in a four stroke after the first 75 miles, again at 200 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles and each 1500 miles thereafter on a street engine. Off road and competition four strokes get fresh oil and filter every one hundred to four hundred miles with me, depending on how hard their running life is after break-in. The initial oil and filter change is done into a clean, light colored, plastic shallow pan so I can see any metal particles that drain out with it. Straining the oil through a clean, white paint filter is excellent practice. You can then drag a magnet through the oil to collect the particles that are ferrous for closer inspection of potential problems. Minor break-in particulate or "dust" is normal. I also cut open the oil filter and lay it out on clean white paper towel to see what it has trapped and again look for any signs of trouble. Yes, it's a lot of fiddling and checking but I find it infinitly preferable to engine catastrophies (and a lot less expensive!). Once it is broken-in, you can optimize ignition timing and jetting, preferably on a dyno. During break-in keep the fuel/air SLIGHTLY rich and the ignition timing essentially stock, NOT advanced. Even after break-in is done, always warm up the engine thoroughly before riding/driving/flying per the above procedure to avoid cold engine excessive wear or even possible "cold seizure" on liquid cooled motors (most frequently occurs in marine or snowmobile applications). Enjoy the fruits of your intense labors...... good luck! Hope this helps...

Wow I didn't know it would make that big of an increase in power!! Right after I made this post I found the RZ conversion section on banshee zone, and I read everything in there... Heres the LINK for any 1 else who wants to know more on this subject, also has pictures... Thx for the help guys, I was starting to second guess doin this, but after hearing the increase it makes I think I will go for it.... Thx again..

You think you could take a pic of it? Also how much did he charge?

I also wounder does the RZ stator put out more wat's?

It everything interchangable from the RZ engin to the shee engin? Would the RZ pv top end bolt right on? Would a banshee head work on the cylinder? Would you need to find some where to mount a battery? I have been told the RZ pv needs a battery? Since its an older design would it be very affective? Anything any 1 can tell me about this will be appreciated.. Thx.

Yes I have been looking into the RZ heads for a while.. Don't the RZ engins use diffrent gearing then the shee? From what I understood, they would bolt right onto a shee motor, just have to mount the battery some where.. I have alot of money that I have saved for this project, I also have a 03 YZ 85 im selling to help also. I planed on getting a p/p, noss head (not sure what size domes, (I am right at sea level), cpi inframe's cause I hear they make more power on ported engins and toomeys are disigned for a non ported engin? Im not to sure on a carb set up though,I was looking into the 2 into 1 carb set up but I talked ot a few people that said that they didn't seem to flow enough gas for a ported and piped engin?So im still not clear on that... I was just woundering what would be the benifits of the stroker or the long rod or the long rod stroker and the pv. Yes I have been lookin at all the power valves, I see how exspensive they are, im am looking to save as much maney as I can, but im not just looking for "cheap mods" I want as much power I can get with as much reliability I can get while still running on pump gas.. I also wounder who does good reliable porting? I was looking at patriot and Whiteknuckle.... Thx again for your help.

Yes thank you very much that does help... Any one have any information bout the power valve? Also I have seen long rod stroker cranks, would that give you more power with the added reliability? Any help is appreciated.. Thx.

I was woundering about certain engin mods, Im planning what all ima do to my shee once I get started on it... I need to know how reliable power valves are and how efective they are..What exactly do they do? Could I still run pump gas? Do long rods improve reliability? Do they make an increase in power or torque? Do stroker cranks make a verry big diffrence in power or reliability? Whats the diffrence between a stroker and a long rod? Thats all of the questions I had that I can think of right now, if I think of some more I'll post them also.. Any info any 1 has on any of these subjects it would be greatly appreciated.. Thx.

I know I hate them too, I was just looking at 2 shees on ebay for an insanly low price, I thought I would check into it just incase it wasn't a scam, turns out it was he kept pushing me to wire the money and everything... Thx to the help of some of the members here I realized it was a scam... Always do a c.o.d or use paypal, just to be on the safe side...

Yeah, ima check at some salvage yards for some old shitters and find me 1 and pimp it. Thx for all the help, When (not if) I get a shee and I start to work on it, I'll post pics and everything as it progresses...

Yes, im not doin anything untill he gives me alitle more info on this, I asked for his number address vin numbers, and why he can't do a c.o.d, if he doesn't give me a strait answer im just forget about it... Realy sucks though...

Ok now im getting alitle worried.... I asked for his phone number, he didn't give me it, he says he can't do a c.o.d, he keeps asking me to wire the funds asap so he can ship it out my thursday and he said "Hurry up and wire the funds asap because the auction price is going up" and the bid hasn't gone up in like 2 days......... Ima ask him for His number again and if he doesn't send it or anything ima just have to wait and find sumthin...

I see, alright I'll see about the COD then, see if he would be willing to do that...... He says he has both titles and both are clear in the description on ebay...

Alright I emailed him asking for his phone number, I also asked for the vin numbers off both , my cousin is a cop so I think I could get him to run the numbers.... I'll send you his number Blue Duece, I realy REALY appreciate you doin this for me....I just hope its not to much trouble. I also wounder if a COD would be safe to use with so much money? Cause even if they don't run perfectly, 4000 for a 95 and a 02 piped shee with an extra set of tires is a Good deal in my book... As long as there not stolen... Thx again you guys have been such a big help... I realy do appreciate it...

Ok cool, I'll ask for his phone #... I would drive out there, but my parents wont let me, I know it sounds weird, them being so cheap. I'll email him back and try to get everything strait.

Its says oc..... Im guessing thats Orange County, I would do that, but I was trying to find a good deal on 1, I was most likly gonna sell 1 of them after a while... I can ask him tomorrow threw email where he is, but I wouldn't want you to go out of your way unless you realy wanted to... Ima try and figure this out tomorrow...If worse comes t worse and I don't get them I guess I'll just keep lookin around, try and find sumthin close to me.. Thx again.

OOh I see, yeah I have a few friends like that, they just want to ride then throw it in the garage muddy or not and just ride the $h!t outa it, never do any mantinence or cleaning or anything and expect it to run... I have a slight problem.... The shees that I want to buy are in California, and I am in Tx. Its a realy nice deal or I would never buy anything I couldn't check out in person and give them the money myself and take the bike back with me.... Heres my problem, I don't know how to use paypal and im guessing you have to put your credit card number down, and my mom doesn't want to do that. (I am using my money though, my parents are not helping me whatsoever). I don't want to wire the funds and then him not send the bike, I was thinking maby a cod but with so much money I don't know if that would be safe either.. So do any of you guys or girls out there know how I could do this saftly? Im 16 and don't know exactly what to do, any help will be GREATLY apreciated!!! Thx.

Hehe thx that is so reasuring, to hear how reliable they are, and I love to clean my bikes and do the mantinence on them and mod them, so that wont be a problem... When I get them I will be on here ALOT more... Thx again for your responses...I realy appreciate it..

Ok thats good to hear, cause I take very good care of my bikes, I keep them very clean, and keep up the maintnence, I got alitle worried when some of my "friends" where tellin me they were unreliable no matter what.... Im getting a 95 and a 02 piped shee for 4000 so im pretty exited, this will be my first shee, I have always wanted 1.. Thx for your replies, if any 1 else has any input on this subject plz post it, I need as many opinions as I can get..

I will be getting 2 shees verry soon, in the next couple of days, I need to know how reliable they are? 1 person told me that they constantly broke down and that you had to repair them all the time, is this true? I didn't think it was but I would like to check with all of you banshee owners out there.. Plz I need your responses asap. Thx.

Never mind I just saw the pipe sounds thread. Sorry.