screamin_banshee_2003

sup guyz i am going to buy some sherear or cpi and ditch my t6. alot guyz around here saying that t6 sux for a ported motor while mine isn't just ported but with a 4 mill on stock cylinders. would the power change will be felt easily by changing from t6 to shearer or cpi. i do alot of duning but i also like hill shooting. are those two pipes good for duning or are they pain in the ass and which one is better than the other. thx :biggrin:

this is the cracked doom

here are some pictures i took for both doomes i have installed everything back and my engine was perfect than ever compression was 165 on both cylinders. i just changed all the gaskets and piston rings.

thanx all 4 replying. Both of my pistons are perfect are like new. If i switch between them nobody would tell which was producing the 207 psi. I think the problem i am facing are the dooms. There is a crack on my right doom. I had pro design dooms but now i have vitos. I got it milled for the 4 mil. I will try it 2day and we will see.

i have removed the cool head. Both piston were perfect but way rich. They were blacked out and oily. The right cylinder doom had a very small chip at the inside on the tip. Could this increase my compression or rather decrease it. I was running my shee with 91 octane fuel fo r a year. I bit that with a compression 207 my piston would have cracks. Am thinking of buying new doomes but i am afraid that it may not be the problem

i did remove both sparks and kicked it untill the needle stopped. Can reed increase compression I am planning on removing the head

last weekend i drove my shee quite hard. I had the wire that is going out from the coolant box (the one which is down not above) melted. My right cylinder spark plug pop out from the cool head. The shee ran like shit. I thought i had a problem with the cooling. I bought a compression test and found out that my right cylinder had a compression of 207 psi and the left had 154 psi. I had my top end changed before one and half years ago and both piston compression were around 160 psi. I bought three compression tester and they all gave me the same reading. I wonder how did the right cylinder shoot up to 207 psi. I did the compression test withought the carbs but with the intake and reeds. Any body can give me any explanation. My mods are in my signature with 22c doomes 35 pwk boss intake Another thing is before two weeks i cleaned the vforce reeds there were low and high on both side of the reed. I don't remeber how i did install them but maybe the right cylinder has low heading upwards. I didn't know about the high low just two days ago. Can that be the problem

i tried riding the shee and it is fine. i am just afraid that i might be on the lean side. no sputtering or bogging at all and it pulls quite hard than the stock carbs. lifting the front end on fourth gear is easy on pavement. if 162 is considered rich then i won't change. my elevation is sea level temp between 68-90 f

More oil= more hp. I don't know if dja is jokin or serious but the more oil in the air fuel mixture the more load needed by the engine to compress the mixture. Because oil is more heavier and viscous the gas. Therefore decreasing it would decrease the load on the engine which would result on more hp. A person should figure the least amount of oil needed to reduce friction and overheat and that would be his best setup

i am using a cej needle Lol in the stock carb i always jet it without a load and i know if i am using the right main jet the wot would give a nice contious sound with no sputtering or bogging It was pretty since i knew which jet is considered big or small. On this new carb jet sizes are diffrent and i dont know if a 162 jet is considered a big jet for the kiehin carb

i have dialed in the 162 main jet. The engine is still sputtering at wide open throttle in neutral. When i pull the choke on both carbs the wot feels better eventhough the bike idiling sux Do i go bigger on the mains ????

thanx loco will be trying a bigger jet but i thought i am on the rich side

hi guyz. i have bought a good used pair of pwk 35mm carbs with a new boss intake. the carb came with 58 pilot jet and 158 main jet. with my mods under, where should i be around on the main jet. i have installed the carbs and the shee fired from the first kick. idiling was quite good but WOT sucked. it revs up quite good until it reaches the peak rpms, it starts to sputter. as if there a rev limiter on the shee. i dunno wither i am lean or rich. another problem am facing is that gas is pouring out of the carb from the upper left and right inlets and also from the downward inlet. any tips on solving the prob would be aprreciated. :cool:

nothing like a 4 mil hot rod crank with a matched port. u will feel the diffrence instantly. later some pipes t5 or cpi, 33 pwk carbs and boss intake . ur shee will be illegal to dune with killer speed :cool:

lol do u mean the shee bogs when hitting the throttle and doens't rev either in 1/4 throttle or Wide open throttle. lol if yes then the parking brake where is the clutch need to be lubricated. it may get sticky by sand or other etc... u just have to make sure when you are hitting or releasing the clutch the parking brake won't move with it and it should be completly shut. :cool:

thanx guys for the replies i guess my premix sux i would try the castrol since it is available more around here :biggrin:

4 ounces of oil would equal how many liters lol i change plugs every weekend ... fouls plugs are something i got used to..

Sup guyz... I am wondering what is the premix i should be running on my shee as i searched around alot used 32:1 and 50:1 i am running yamalube R oil 5 gallons of fuel for every liter of yamalube oil what is the ratio of fuel oil mixture i am running?? is it 20:1??? thanx sorry if it was posted on the wrong section

I run 4 mill hot rod crank with stock ported cylinders to match +4 timing 22 doomes 158-165 PSI with 97 octane gas no detonation at all

thanx for those who replied i am settled with a boss billet intake and 33mm PWK airstriker :cool:

okiez i am waiting for the pm

I have canceled the order from TRD I would be grateful if i can get the billet boss racing intake from u i am waiting a reply do u have any carbs also

lShiiit life is nasty I just ordered from the TDR website billet boss intake for 140 plu shipping Too rushy Do u think i can cancel the order..... Thanx man

Thanx guys for the replys ... I'd guess i woud take the pwk carb but what is the size i should take is there anybody running almost the same setup with the 35 pwk.... i would need to know how they perform... i dont care about the bottom end at all. I just want the mid and top end to pull harder. what about the intakes. ... I found chariot carbon fiber intake on ebay for 90$$... or should i take the boss billet.... is there any diffrence on performance ... Here is the chariot intake.... ebay site.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...rksid=p3907.m29 Regards

Hi guys, am not the kinda guy who right topics i am just a reader. I am wondering which carb and size is perfect for my setup, and also what add ons i need. -I have a T-6 pipe -V-force 2 -timing plate +4 -Hot rod +4mil crank - Dune Ported heads to work with the 4 mil crank -Pro design cool head with 22 doomes -Bored out cylinder to 65.5 - pro elite pistons - bored stock carbs to 27.5 - running 360 mains and 27.5 pilot jet. - toomey heavy duty clutch compression about 150-160 I run 97 octane since it is available in the petrol stations in the middle east I only dune and don't do any gravel riding. what do u think is the best carb for my set up.... i am more attracted to the PJ's 34 What other addons i should get for the fitment of the carb. :cool: Is adding a carb would give me a diffrence. My shee already puls nice and hard. with 4snow tires I would start from down the hill with the third gear and then shift to fourth but it won't take the fifth gear. Do u think with the new carbs it would. stock gearing Reagrds :biggrin: