wickedSS

ttt

The quad is totally assembled and running but I have no pictures of it yet. The bike is at our cottage in Gaylord, MI which is 3 hours from where I'm at now. I'm going up this weekend and can take pics and post them when I get back Sunday.

The haulers are the normal ones on 8 inch wheels, the balloony style.

Motor

EMAIL [email protected] if interested or you want more pics 1998 banshee in great condition. Just built at the end of last season, only used 3 times. It starts easily and runs on 110 octane gas. VERY fast and good looking quad. I attached the only pictures I have of the quad, none have been taken since it was completed though. Quad is located in Detroit area Michigan Painted blue frame with the following mods: +4 Roundhouse swingarm w/ flames laser cut into it. Billet roundhouse bearing carrier CPI chrome inframe pipes w/ silencers V force Reeds Billet cool head DYNA FS programmable ignition Drag/Dune ported by S.C.C. (~85 hp) Many misc. Billet accessories/parts Lectron 36mm carbs Titanium gray plastics w/ pearl ghost flames (drag cut plastics) Chrome shifter Fly aluminum bars All radiator lines braided stainless hose Much MUCH more!!! The following tires can be worked into the deal: Skat trak 10 paddle haulers Skat trak smooth buff fronts Holeshot rears/fronts Shredder rears/fronts Rear ice tires w/ chissels Asking $4300. Call 248 444 0356 or [email protected]

I have an opportunity to dyno my quad for free at a college engineering dyno. The only problem is that there is not a "banshee tuner" there, I just have access to the dyno. I want to do some tuning but I'm not familiar where the numbers should be in order to be "on the safe side"...so it's not too lean or too fat. I have dyno'ed a snowmobile so I know how to read the dyno #'s etc, just need to know WHERE the numbers need to be and any other tricks you guys might have picked up while dyno'ing your quads. Thanks

I have no O-rings between the plates/fibers... With my side cover off I can watch the pressure plate go in and out with the clutch pull. It is disengaging and engaging, but still lurching.. So basically just get the arrows lined up and let it wear in? btw---my basket had some grooves and I filed them down to smooth

I installed my Tusk clutch kit and went to adjust it this weekend and ran into a few problems. The arrow on the cases doesn't want to line up When I kick the bike over with it in gear and the clutch pulled it wants to lunge forward Holding the clutch and rolling the bike is tough because it feels half engaged Can anyone give me a good way to get the clutch dialed in correctly! btw---I have a magnum easy pull / brand new clutch cable

I have an adjustable timing plate set at +4 and a dyna programmable ignition, am I going to run into problems? Thanks

My buddy has one on his banshee. It's really smooth, looks pretty good. It's not really "SHINY" but it's a bright silver color, feels like it has a rubbery coating or thick clearcoat on it.

+4 stroker, CPI inframes, get cylinders ported by A & S, Tyson, K & T, etc....Bigger carbs. If you reallly wanna kill them, get a coolhead and run some high compression domes and race gas.

I need a stock basket for a banshee. Must be in good condition and be good priced. Let me know if you have one hanging around that I can buy. Thanks, PM me!

I need a stock clutch basket. Not looking to spend a fortune, but it needs to be in good condition. Let me know

Get a lawyer, you bought an $850 product that nearly killed you. A product that was claimed to be better/stronger. It's bad enough they didn't give you a new one for free, but half ass fixing it is terrible. Don't lay down for them.

I bought a bike w/ 36mm lectron carbs on it. The bike has a twist throttle. I will be converting it to the stock thumb throttle assembly, will a stock thumb cable work or what?

The Nicasil coating is far from maintanence free. It's tough stuff but if you blow the motor up good, you'll be spending ALOT more per cylinder ($200 per cylinder roughly depending). Snowmobile cylinders use nikasil all the time..expensive blow ups...keep this in mind.

I got a 1000cc twin cat motor that made 187 hp / 127 torque...it's no where near "tweaked" either, it's still a trailable motor.

I need the piece that the outer clutch plate hooks into w/ the 6 bolts, not the basket, the piece between the two. Let me know if anyone has one.

Already bought a set of holeshots w/ 90 1.080 stud boy chissels in them, used twice brand new looking. Got them for $115 shipped.

The way the real fast guys seem to be doing it is with ice chissels or ice pics...I haven't seen anyone run a trail stud (carbide tip, not very sharp). I need some nice straight line traction---aiming to beat a few sleds this year

Depends when and if I get my bike done

runnstrong---by carbide tip you mean a snowmobile trail stud I take it?? How was traction with them?

An actual snowmobile pic / chissel and backer seems to be the best for straight racing

I got a set of holeshots front and rear that are in descent condition but I'd hate to go studding them all up...

Any tire will work for studding or are there preferred styles?