Stomp77

Two brand new yamaha banshee pistons from the dealership. They are .25 over stock. Make an offer....

Nope, sorry stock jugs are 64mm, these are 66mm.

Here are some 2.00 66mm wiseco pro-lites, part #K143. Kit Includes: Matched & balanced forged pistons, rings, wrist pins, circlips. Kit is $159.95 from magicracing. My loss is your gain. None of the sealed packages have been opened: Wrist pins, rings. The pistons themselves are nice and shiny. However they are too large for my cylinder repair project, and are just taking up workspace. First $120.00 bucks takes 'em and I'll even pay for standard Usps (snail mail) shipping. I prefer Paypal but a cashier's check will do. Please direct all inquiries to [email protected] or serious buyers can call me in the evenings after 4pm eastern at 304-273-3478 and ask for Chuck.

I got a stageIV head from trinity and it came with 19cc domes. I want to run pump gas and am at 700 ft. 21cc was what i was looking for. send offers to [email protected] or pm me. Thanks for looking Chuck

We are building a banshee and want the frame, swing arm, ect... black. The frame i have is silver and the paint is worn out. Naturally I headed to the local powder-coater, but he can't get to me for weeks. I was sitting here bummin' then i had this idea to call about the professional spray on rhino liner stuff. For truck beds that stuff is just awesome. Why not banshee's? We abuse the crap out of that stuff at work and it never shows a scuff or scratch. The herculiner DIY stuff looks OK, There is also the duplicolor brush on DIY kit, and this stuff called 'what a liner'. And of course the real deal stuff thats professionally sprayed on. I ride in the mountains and the conditions here are brutal. A new paint job does not last long, hence the need for powder coat, but a pro quality install of rhino liner may be cheaper faster and last longer? The do it yourself stuff is super cheap, and does not look hard to apply. Of course typically you get what you pay for.... Has anybody actually ever used this stuff for there trucks, trailers, ect..... Am i wasting my time? I dunno, i think this might work out great any info or opinions appreciated!!!!!

Brand new still in box with circlips, rings, instructions etc.... all in perfect condition. need to sell ASAP! i paid 150 dollars new for the kit. Would take 80.00 via pay pal right now thanks for looking.

Cool, my pics turned out bad but, according to this http://jimrace.com/faq/CVK40.html (carb function diagram) everything is proceeding according to plan. If this works right... then,

I have two 34mm constant velocity carbs off of a 250 ninja. they are vacuum operated and use the diaphram fuel delivery system. Mechanically they appear to work perfectly on the banshee. They mount up, fit well and have manually adjustable choke and throttle settings. Which means that the carbs are eniterly mechanical in nature no computer required. I am rebulding my banshee engine, when i am done i want to use these kehin carbs instead of my stock banshee crap.If i do my jetting right which means a ton of plug chops i think it should work. Iin theory the amount of fuel provided by cfm will be controlled by the jetting in the carbs, while the ninja carbs do have a coaster enrichment system which affects the idle mixture.it should be ok, cause, Under load the coaster enrichment system is bypassed by the primary pilot system the coaster enrichment system works to keep the amount of fuel coming into the motor always the same whethere under load (take off) or idle at a stop. The carbs have a pilot and mains system very similar to the banshee's so as far as i can tell this Should actually work very well. I see aftermarket flat slide carbs for banshee's on ebay all the time. What is the difference? beats me, The way these ninja carbs work is awesome tho, i really want to get them to work. whats the worst thing that could happen? shee would not run or start or idle is my theory as long as i check my plugs constantly (if it runs!) has this ever been done before? am i risking dire consequenses? have street bike carbs been grafted to banshee's before with great success or major failure? i am curious and would like to hear some horror stories or even some successfull stories. I will upload pics of my progress thus far sometime in the middle of this weekend's bender probably at 4:20 am on saturday thanks for any and all opinions

The compression is 128 normally using a stock head at 700 ft above sea level. +4 timing advance using the ricky stator. I run 93 octane with amsoil at 50:1 with a mixture of jets. ranging from 270 to 300 on the mains. I had a carb cap come loose during a 2 hour ride, then right after that a spark plug blew out of the jug whle riding on the side that lost compression. This is the second time i have rebuilt in 4 months. The 1st time i exploded a piston in that same left cylinder and had to replace the crank and rods and pistons. I bored 20 over stock and there were still deep scores in the cylinder wall after getting the jugs back from the shop, you could see the old scratches but not feel them. Now you can feel them again and the piston on that side is covered with a lot more carbon than the "good" side cylinder. The only thing i did not do during the last rebuild was measure the rings end gap clearance. They were vito's power piston's. with a shorter thicker skirt. I wonder if the rings ate into the wall of the cylinder causing blow by and loss of cylinder pressure. Anyone know if loosing a crank seal will make both cylinders loose compression or just one?

I just rebuilt using top notch stuff 4 months ago. vito's piston's TDR crank, etc...The guys who bored and honed my jugs left visable scores but i was unable to feel anything and was told this is normal (is it?) so i assembled my powerplant and went riding. 4 months later, here we go again! Now shee's headless. The flame pattern on the pistons looks very strange to me. the intake and transfer ports have left some "clean" places and there is some light melting of the lefthanded piston. I'll post pics tonight and y'all can maybe help give a diagnostic. The left cylinder lost compression down to 45 psi. The right cylinder still reads at 128 psi. The weird thing is the side with most compression the right side has more wiggle than the side that has almost no compression FUBAR. oh yeah, does anyone know about crankshaft seals. If i lost the stator side seal would the right hand or opposite piston still have compression or would both sides compression go down? I think it would but dunno. In other words should i split the cases and replace my crank seals or just rebore and hook her up with some new wiseco's a bore job and i'll be good to go? any advis would be greatly appreciated. thanks all, chuck.

I have fmf fatties and i used to run aftermarket silencers. Until one day i blew out the packing in the woods. I came home and used my dremel to bore out the stock silncers so they would slide over my fmf's and have run the stock silencers ever since, they have metal baffles in them instead of packing. the bike acutally seems snappier off of the line and i never have to mess with packing plus shee is a little quiter at idle. so, IMO stock silencer's kick ass.

stock silencers have metal baffles in them, and the cheapest place i've found cores for my old fmf's was on ebay.

ok, so i CAN get a- arms to accomidate the longer shock? is so thats awesome cause these ohlin's shocks are way way way stiffer than my stockers, i can push the stock ones down by hand! what kind of arms will fit the longer shock?

uhm, ok i see. I think... i thought aftermarket a-arms were made for longer shocks, but there just beefier to handle the extra spring strength? but wouldn't squishing the 15+ inch shock into the smaller stock mounts give the longer shocks a higher spring rate with less actual travel? I think i could force them in but that would put extra pressure on the ball joints just like adding aftermarket shocks with rezzies? right? wrong?

I got some new shocks off a cannondale cannibal and they are too long. I am thinking about compressing them with a spring compressor to make them fit, then once they are in place and bolted up taking off the compressor? any idea if this is dangerous???? i want after market a-arms but cannot afford them for 3 more weeks, and my stock shocks are totally shot. thanks

Could they (green/yellow) (black) wires be to the parking brake? if so, they should be "open" right? My stator tests perfect and it has good voltage coming out. The CDI shows voltage coming out but that supposedly doesn't mean anything. any wiring gurus out have a clue?? i just replaced the coil and the stator tests good, so that just leaves the cdi i guess. gonna get one on monday from a local 4-wheeler junk yard and find out....

hi, my banshee has the extra wires coming off of the CDI. its a green wire with a yellow stripe. it runs to a connector together with a black ground wire. right past the connector they are cut and capped!!! i did not do this shee came this way. My stator tests good, i replaced the coil, and my haynes manual does not show those wires or where they are supposed to go, does anyone know where they go to stock? can the green yellow wire not being connected stop me from getting spark? cause i have none? thanks!

2 more parts to go thru then shee's gone... I have tested literally everything. I read that CDI's last a long time, Only it and the voltage regulator are left to replace. Everything else on bike aside from shocks have been replaced. check my signature.

I used the race logic sport port kit, its a magnetic template, i did not even use it to its potential. I only opened up the intake and smoothed my casting flaws, out, port matched the cases and opened the exhaust port just a hair, WAAAAAY inside of the sport port template. I saw a dramatic improvement in power, Used to its full potential the sport port kit would just about rip your arms off!!!! ps i dont work for em i just like what i bought!!!!!!!! its a 100 bones and I felt ripped off until i fired her up and went rocketing around the yard, just my 02 cents

ok, here's the scoop, I got brand new coil from, yamaha. its on a 97 banshee with no key, no tail light, and tors disconnected. It was this way when i got it. I rode it for a year and then one day blammo , no spark. I took off all of the plastic, and such, ran all of the tests in my book, and the coil tested bad, i replaced it and still nothing. I checked the ground and even ran "beep" tests on most of the wiring, and everything tests out good. The harness has several wires just twisted together, and common sense says there is probably something either connected wrong or not touching where it should. It ran like this before, but someting may have come loose and grounded or something and i did not arrange the wires so i have no idea what exactly should be touching and what should not! is their a RIGHT way to disconnect tors, carb switches, and the key switch? The tors unit is unplugged, the wires coming out of the carbs are cut and capped. The thumb throttle had been replaced by a twist throttle, and the key switch has been hot wired. it has a kill switch and working headlights. Is there any way to test for current flow coming from the stator? I set my v-meter to amps and had my girlfriend kick it over while i held my leads to all of the leads coming from the stator, and got nothing. The only things left to replace would be the CDI, or the stator itself and it tests ok. My book does not talk about the voltage regulator, can it be tested, do they go bad often? has anyone had a similar problem? please help! She's been my favorite possesion for years, but, if i cannot figure this one out pronto she's goin on the auction block, my nerves are shot and my wits are gone!!!!!!!!!!! help a brother save his banshee, peace all! and thanks for looking at my book

1-RIDE ALL DAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! down highway 420 2-gettin her all shiny to park in the garage then, just lookin....... poetry in motion, art sittin still, faster then fast, dominate 'shee WILL

This has turned into a serious project!!!!! I finally have all of the piece's ( iTHINK?) to make this work spectacularly well after the new year i will be able to start fabricating the proto-type and begin the process of installing and testing, testing, testing!!! I FINALLY got my video capture card working right, so videos and pics of my progress are in the worx......

The shop the sells 100:1 pre-mix went under! Now i cannot buy amsoil anywhere in a 40 mile radius! I saw someone selling some on here one day and cannot remember who it was? Anybody know? TIA

six feet under, fear factory, pantera, sepultura, misfits, Rage, hell yeah to tenacious, and gotta give it up for Jimmy pappa Leee and the blood hound gang, SNOOOOOP!, Da chronic, 50 cent, pink floyd, ozzy, Faith No More..... just to name a few

Hi all, I just went to school for electronics, and have been looking into manufacturing a tachometer for the banshee. My buddies sled has one that reads the fire from the plugs, each plug fires independantly per the coil. Thus the sled gets accurate tach readings from the coil thru the lead wire connected to the plugs themselves. Its battery powered, DC voltages. I can setup a diode bridge and hook in a battery to the banshee no problem, however. I believe the banshee fires both plugs at the same time, but only one cylinder fires because the other lacks a fuel/air charge. Different from the the snowmobiles. The principle remains the same however and my preliminary tests show similar results. Using the same type of connection: a small lead running to the bottom of each spark plug, It will measure rpm's by "counting" the number of "sparks" per second, coming from the coil or rather hom many fires per second. It can also give accurate cylinder temps via the plugs. 2 small gauges will display the readouts, right now i have seperate guages but i can combine them into one small cluster. Are any of you intersted in having one of these on your banshee? I will post pics of my progress as soon as i can get ahold of a camera. so, what do you guys think? any kinda feedback is appreciated!!!! thanks