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Also, what about a rebuilt crank? Or am I just asking for trouble.

Thanks Gravel, I guess I shoulda just googled that question. Anyways, it looks like my crank is effed up. Lots of free play in the connecting rod. Even found a few random pieces of metal floating around in there. Bought brand new in "92 with little to no problems, so I guess I can't complain too much. Any advice on which crank to buy? Gonna keep it stock length. As far as the head goes, is Noss good. It says you don't have to change out the bolts with the Noss. Also, what dome size if I want to run pump gas at sea level. Sorry for all the questions.

Went riding and bike seized up. Kick starter wouldnt budge. Pulled heads and cylinders, and I definitely burned up the left side piston. I've rebuitl the top end before, so that's not a big problem. But my question is, since I've removed the cylinders, shouldn't the kick starter move? It is still frozen and I can't move it. Also, this might be a dumb question, but can I replace the stock domes on the stock cylinder head or do I need to buy a new head? Thanks.

Just started swapping parts with the running banshee. And it came down to a bad ignition coil. I thought when I checked it originally, the spark was OK. But it must have been weak, I guess. Didnt see the post that said to do leakdown before pulling reeds. Why would that matter. Just curious, cuz I swapped carbs and reed cages first thing. Also, on the leakdown are we just looking for a bad gasket or something else that is causing it to suck in air? Or am I way off. Thanks again.

Thanks for posts. Yeah I swapped the plug wires already, and it still wouldn't start. I have another banshee that I think I will just swap out the carbs and then the reed cage with. Hopefully that will fix things. Just have family visiting and haven't had time to play with yet. Thanks again.

Ran great all weekend, then all of a sudden it wouldn't start. Changed plugs, had spark but not sure if it was weaker then the right side plug, cleaned carb, and it finally started after about 100 kicks. But was only smoking on the right side. The left side had some exhaust but wasn't as strong as the right side. Then I havent been able to start it again. Came home and did a compression test, 135 psi on both sides. Any thoughts? Thanks. Awesome site BTW.

After my bike sits for awhile ( a few weeks ), when I pull the clutch lever in, the lever will stick. So to release it I have to tap on the part that is on top of the case ( it is the part that you line up the arrows on to adjust your clutch ). I have to do that a couple times before the clutch will release properly. After that it works just like it should. Are the clutch springs bad or is it something else? The clutch is only a couple years old. Thanks.

Where is the best place to mount? Thanks

Put the choke in, hold the throttle wide open, and kick it until it sounds like it will start. Then pull choke out and try to start it again. When you kickstart it, you don't have to kick it hard, smooth and quick works better.

If you cleaned your carbs, make sure you didn't reverse the float bowls. The bowl on the left carb should have a gold ring on the front of it. It has something to do with the choke, so if they get switched, your bike will start hard cold, but start easy once it is warm.

If your float bowls get put on the wrong carbs it will be hard to start cold. There's a gold ring on the front of the float bowl that goes on the left carb.

Mine did the same thing after I cleaned my carbs. The float bowls look the same but you can't switch them. The float bowl on the left carb will have a small gold ring on it. Look at them from the front and you should see it. Make sure it is not on the right carb. If that's not the problem, make sure that the rubber tube that connects the carbs is not missing.

Sorry to post this, cuz I'm sure it's been answered before. Anyways, my toomey t-5's are on their way. What should the jetting be? I also have k&N filter, lid on with 12 airbox vents. I ride at sea level. Thanks for the help.

I took off my chain rollers, upper and lower, and now I don't remember if the big roller was the upper or the lower. Thanks

I lost the upper chain roller and was thinking about buying a cascade chain slider instead. I looked online at a picture, but was unsure how they would install. It looks like they might fit over the existing roller. So I guess I need to know if you need the roller for the slider to work. Thanks. Also do they cause more resistance?

What do u think his jetting should be then? He also has some boyesen reeds

What do u mean the clutch *fades and goes away"? Does the bike start to move when you have the clutch lever in all the way? Maybe you just need to adjust it. Follow the clutch cable to where it enters the case. There is an arm that moves when you pull in the clutch. On that arm is an arrow. Also on the crankcase there is another arrow. Make sure those 2 arrows are pointing at each other. If not then you need to adjust the clutch. If by chance you have to readjust the clutch, get rid of the rubber rings while you're in there.

I know what an O-ring chain is, but what is an X-ring chain. And is the x-ring worth the extra few dollars. I ride in sand mostly.

Went riding w/ a friend yesterday. My bike is stock 'cept for no snorkel and jetted up 2 sizes. He has t5's plus straight KN air cleaners. He said he was jetted at 280. We both have brand new rebuilds, .030 over. Also the same gearing, 12/41. Anyways, his bike would beat me thru gears 1-5, but mine would take off in 6th and leave him behind. Once he hit 6th his bike would bog. I thought if it was a jetting problem then all the gears would act the same. Any ideas?

whats the best chain lube for sand. I have some stuff now that is real thick and the sand sticks to it really bad. It's a mess to clean off.

I feel kinda dumb, but the problem was like eating 4 day old mexican food...................bad gas. I didn't think it was that old. But anyways, thanks for the suggestions.