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Yamahammer

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Posts posted by Yamahammer

  1. Mod quad makes a billet insert that fits into the stock light tab thingy and gives you a 3/8 hole for mounting what ever light you want.. I got the ricky stater duner one last year and cut the bar that conects the 2 together out. It also gives you a tab and a standard 3/8 hole for mounting what ever light you want, I currently have hella 4000 but picked up the mr16 at the show. Have not mounted them yet but will try in the nexr couple days and post pics.

  2. yea it was all rinos and rails shit 3 yerars ago all banshee stuff now you cant even find a grab bar it seems like ..

    i scored a bunch of stuff lights stem seat cover case saver temp guage and cooler in one ill post pics later.

     

     

    I also scored a stem that know one else has or seen its on oreder being made wont get it for 2 weeks so i will post pics when it arrives cant wait...

  3. yea i scored on the pegs last year they said they where retooling the heel guards but nothing yet i here going to hit them up about them.

     

    Looking for

    case saver

    esr temp guage

    steering stem

    fullbores or others?

    seat cover or complete whats up with quad teck no banshee stuff

    and the usual i got to have that when i see it things

    maybe lights might change the current combo 2 hella 4000 100watt bulbs and 6 3/4 around mounted on a ricky stater bar

  4. i would and it will start easier and not require a choke most of the time and will compensate for the sparky removal and a filter in the future, but the main will need to go up if you change the filter or remove the lid. the pilot is in a hole next to the main wich is in the middle of the carb once bowl is removed. i think stock pilot is a 22.5 go to a 25. its half a size really. if you inlarge the pilot the air bleed wich has a spring on most will need to be set a 2 or 2.5 turns out from a light seat or tight light.if stock pilot go the 1 turn you cant really adjust the air bleed once the carb is installed hard to get to. some have it covered by a brass plug you will have to drill out be very carefull i use a very small bit drill it and then go up a size or two and screw a screw in it and pull it out with plires screw and plug together its easier than it sounds. also i have found the bigger jet will not clog as easily as the stock butr it can and will.

  5. what gas are you running what was it set up for compression wise and if you are draggin g it i would get the billet fuel bowls i was running stock petcock and stock bowls same motor and set up as you. i was sucking them dry. make sure you have a pingle billet bowls and that you are not using a billet gas cap with the little billet top it will create a vacume and slow flow. ask me how i have been searching for a miss pop and lean condition and i think all of these are causing it. i think raound about jetting 55 main 180 pilot to start with, and also side not you cant trail ride this thing all slow in hot weather it will run hot you need to be rolling.

  6. I have found this problem alot on these bikes.

    first clean the carb and while its turned or off easier if you just turn it in the bike. Adjust the air bleed a little brass flat head on the front lower part of the carb in front of the bowxl and below the mouth the part that connects to the motor.set it at 1 turn out from closed.

    the pilot is more than likely clogged try to run it on the choke if it runs better then it deffinatly clogged.

    also if the idle is up and down and sometimes they will whistle sort of all these bike lean from the factory adjusting air screw helps or bump the pilot one size. What elevation are you, and by removing the spark arrestor you have freed up the exhaust making it more lean.

  7. make sure the black vent line (choke tube is hooked up between the carbs.

    what size pilots are you running and filter set up.

    you can check the carbs for synch that they are both aperationg at the same time. look through the rear and make sure slides are even and going up at the same rate.

    do you have tors eliminated if not do so unplug the box on the driver side under tank by steering stem.

  8. it could be a carb issue but more than likely its bad plugs from riding it to slow for to long and just fowled them out, they might have been going bad when you bought it cheap and easy fix ( well for most ) hope you can figure out where they are.they are ngkbr8es you can get them at most auto parts stores cheap or go to the any motor cycle shop and pay a little more.Lrt us know haw it goes.

  9. I tried to twist push everything also lubbed it with wd40 brake kleen and dyelectric greese not happening. I drilled a little pilot hole into the side of one of the coil tubes where the wire goes in. I wanted to make sure i was geting a good contact.The wire is too fat or thick tried to strip away part of the insulation and it goes in but the nail or spike on the coil inside the tube that makes the contact with the wire, is not and it is pushing the center contact wire into the insulation.the inside tube of the coil is necked down about half way in this is where the wire stops and goes not farther.

    post-11313-1187934711_thumb.jpg

  10. I have tried to get these taylor wires to seat in the coil all the way but yhey wont reach or bottom out. I tried to shave back and remove the insulation but then it pushes the the center wire in and does not expand it..

     

    called jeff at fast to no avail just everything else with this guy....... :down: it is what it is

  11. i just installed bb sheers and yea they take a little message work.

    they hit at the lower bend on the frame just an 1/8 maybe and the left pipe hits the head about the same that was all the probs i had, they do sit right on top of my carb tops also but i am going to reshim it and see what i get .

    I have the flat plate front pipe hangers and just kept ading washers till i got them to line up and work, the price we pay for speed and displacement,

    really was not as bad as i thoguht but it did take me about 2 to 3 hrs to fully install them.

    i also used the rubber mounts off my fmf silencers to space the new ones out a bit and ad vibration dampening.

    i will try and get some pics up

  12. im not for sure but your rpms dropping on a long pull isnt becasue your jetting... thats gearing?

     

     

    we as in jet ski world use this to detirmine if we are lean because as the motor stays at a constant high rpm it will lean out and start to lose Rpm, richen it up a little and it will hold that peak rpm over a long distance not forever due to heat soak but its just another tuning tool.

    and yes gearing would affect it but if you are in 2nd or 3rd on flat ground or under a load and the bike pulls say 10,00 and then starts loosing rpm over a distance it may be lean,( example pinned up olds and you are in 3rd and hit 10,000 and then it starts dropping could be a sign of a little lean.could also be gearing depends on how much motor you have.egt help also.

     

     

     

    they pull to a different RPM depending on mods and gearing so forth i think a max of 8500 to 10,00 is about a rough average

  13. i run a tiny tach on my ski it simply wraps around one of the spark plug wires and thats it it has its on internal battery and starts reading once bike is started i may try it on the shee to see how far it really is pulling, also will let you know if jetting is lean if r's drop over a long pull.. and the little tiny tach i think are 50 bucks or so and water proof and the size of a wrist watch.

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