BayBanshee

I was one of the lucky ones whos banshee would stick wide open everytime I went through water, so I got rid of my stock carbs. I have not got it running right since I got the new carbs. I rode it yesterday and it ran like crap for some reason. Every time I would be going up a little hill about 1/4 to 1/2 throttle turn it would just sputter real bad and I could not get any power unless I dumped the cluch. It runs really good on top end though. I need to do a plug test, but it is hard to do without the cops showing up at my door.

Ha Ha, you guys are great! Thanks for the quick responses. When I bought these pipes (brand new from the motorcycle shop) after cleaning the pipes and polishing them back up I noticed 1 pipe is actually nickle plated and the other on is chrome plated. Both of the pipes are a little gold by the engine, but I figured that was normal, I have been riding it for years like that. But since I put on the different carbs I noticed that the chrome pipe is turning blue in the middle.

Hi everyone, I changed my jetting in my banshee, it is finally starting to run pretty good. I have ridden it once and at the end of the day when I cleaned it off I noticed the pipes were starting to change colors. I am sure it is probably because of the jetting. Will this hurt my engine if I keep riding it and if so what direction do I need to go with my jetting. I have a 01 banshe with fmf pipes, pwk 28 carbs, my needle clip is in the middle, 45 pilot and 158 mains. I think I turned my air screw out about a turn and a half. I am running a stock airbox with out a snorkle and I K&N filter. Thanks,

Thanks RBD. I am almost positive my carbs say Keihin on the side, but I will have to double check. My carbs fit a little loose, but I think I have them on pretty good.

Thanks for the picture RBD. My carbs do not have that Brass piece sticking out like that. Mine sticks up like that, but is is just a solid piece of aluminum. What is that brass piece for anyway? Did I get ripped off when I bought these? Rocketboy, I was thinking the same thing about that whole shop. I think they are all raging crack heads. So it sounds like I need to check for any air leaks and then try and get this thing jetted right. My brother talked to a guy and he said if I switched out my stock CDI box with a yamaha racing ignition, that I would not believe the difference it makes with 28 pwk's?

Thanks SuperChris, pictures would help alot. I bought the aluminum manifold for my k&n to bolt onto. I am using the stock carb boots and a boost bottle. I don't think my carbs have a fitting next to the intake boot for a hose to hook them together like my stock carbs have? Does anyone elses 28pwks have this?

Thanks for all the replies, you guys are great! I don't think I have any airleaks, but you never know. What places do you usually get air leaking and what is the best way to check for leaks?

Yeah I changed the plugs when I put the new carbs on. It idles fine, but it is much harder to start. I don's know anything about carbs? Is the pilot jet the long skinny part the main jet screws into?

The carbs came with 140's and I have not changed them. It runs good sometimes, except for the deadspot on the bottom end. I have only ridden it a couple of times, but sometimes it feels like I am running out of gas or fouling a plug.

I bought a new set of 28mm pwks about 4 months ago. My banshee is running like it is trying to foul a plug and sputtering once in a while and it feels like there is a deadspot on bottom end when I am going slow, my banshee almost shuts off. The local motorcycle shop here in Ohio that flatslide carbs have a deadspot on bottem end? They said that these should of came jetted right, so I should not have to mess with the jetting. I was told that if I bought these carbs I would notice a big difference, but mine just seems to run worse. I was wondering if you guys had any ideas or mods I could do to make these carbs run better. I did put new superstock pistons and rings in before I put my new carbs on and I put new carb boots on, because one side was cracked around the boost bottle. I have fmf fattys, powercore 2 silencers, k&n filter, and the timing is advanced 3 degrees. Thanks,

Thanks for the offers everyone, but my brother bought a set of motofast pipes over the weekend. Thanks again,

One of my buddies is looking for a set of DMC Aliens. I have never heard of them, but he said he is looking to pay around 300. Thanks,

I just went through the same thing. I have a 2001 that would not idle and kept backfiring out of the right side. I finally did a compression test and the right side was at 60 and the left side was at 120. When I started tearing it apart the check out the topend I noticed the rubberboot for the boost bottle had a big tear in it on the right side, I took of the head and the right dome was all pitted where a piece if the top ring broke off. I had it bored .20 over and put in vito superstock pistons. It runs so good now. I love running on two cylinders again

Thanks for the offer Holyman, but I don't think my brother wants to spend that kind of money on pipes. He said to see if I can find anything under 200, because he already has fmf fattys. He is just going to by a 2 into 1 pipe if he can find one cheap. Thanks again,

racer what kind of pipes do you have? Do you have any pics of them? reded are your pipes a 2 into 1 system?

My younger brother just bought a banshee and he wants a 2 into 1 pipe for it. Does anyone have one for sale? Thanks,

Do you know about what he charges to do that? If I shave my head, can I still use pump gas or do I have to start using race gas?

I am looking for a stock head in perfect shape or a cool head with the stock dome size. My stock head is scratched up from a broken ring. Thanks,

I bought some 28 pwks for my banshee and the left carb was dumping gas, I just took the bowl off and put it right back together and it stopped leaking??? Once that problem was fixed the throttle kept sticking wide open. From the vibration, the throttle cable kept barely pulling out of the tops of the caps. (not all the way out, just enough to make the throttle stick. I just zip tied the cable and it has worked fine since.

I think I will take off the side covers and see if I can see anything wrong. By the inner bearings, are they the ones where the rods hook to? Because looking from the top of the motor, they look pretty good to me, but I really do not know what to look for. Is it pretty tough to split the case? I just don't want to get in over my head and break even more things. I have enough things broke on it right now.

Thanks Big Blue. I am going to clean mine up a bit and see how it comes out, but if it is pitted up to much then I will let you know if I want that head. If you get your head milled out, about how much HP do you gain and is it worth the money?

I took my head and to the local shop here. They told me the marks are caused when the crank bearing starts to go out, no if's ands or buts. They said they have seen it a thousand times and not to put new pistons and rings in beacause it will last for about a half an hour without replacing the crank. I think they might be trying to rip me off. I went home and turned the crank by hand and looked at the bearings, they looked fine, there is a little play in the arm when you move it side to side, but none up and down. I think that is normal. Is there any way to tell if you crank is going bad, without splitting the case? Thanks eveyone for your replies.

Thanks for the quick replies. What is a good way to make sure there is nothing in the crank, because I did not find the piece of the piston. I figured it must have got blown out the exaust or something.

Hey Everyone, My Shee has been running like crap lately, I found that both boots for the Boost bottle were torn and my right cylinder compression is 60. I took off the head and it looks like a small part of the piston broke off and must have been setting between the head and the top of the piston. They are both a little scared up. I am going to put new pistons in, but does anyone know what would happen if I took a grinder and cleaned up the head, because I really can't afford to buy a new head right now. Also, does anyone know about how much the boots for the boost bottle cost? Thanks,

My dad and I both have 2001 banshees with thumb throttles, k&n's, stock carbs, fmf fattys, tors removed. Two weeks ago we took apart his carbs and sprayed teflon on the slides then we went riding. Mine was reving everytime I touched water and his did not do it once. We took his carbs back apart and the teflon was starting to wear off. Now after a few rides it has all worn off it is reving again. I bet if someone put new slides in, (which comes with teflon baked on them) it would be fine until the teflon starts to wear off. I only had my banshee for about two weeks and I did my mods, it ran fine for about a year and I used to ride in alot of water and it never reved up. I bet if you take a poll of whos banshee with stock carbs reved up within the first six month to a year, there will be very few whos did and if everyone whos throttle is sticking now takes there stock carbs apart, most of the teflon coating is gone. New slides will fix the problem, but they are 70.00 each.