bigboybanshee
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Posts posted by bigboybanshee
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It's one of two things.
You can't leave in second because you're not holding the throttle wide open upon launching...
or...
You can't leave in second because there isn't enough power being made for that gearing/tire setup and your weight.
You can either:
1. make more power
2. change gearing or tires
3. lose weight (not suggested for any other reason than to improve your scenario)
It also seems that maybe you might be confused on air pressure for paddles. More air pressure = more traction. Less air pressure = less traction. That applies only to paddles though
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I ran a lockup and no override on my 350 back in the day...not because I didn't need it, was more because I couldn't afford it at the time.
You WILL have faster ET's running an override transmission. There is nothing wasted between shifts...goes from one gear to the next w/ no clutching....if you do nothing but drag race, get the override...which one, depends on you/your riding
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No, they are fine. I ran 39pwk's on my 350 and it hauled ass....you may have to tune them a little differently, but 39's were great on my stock cylinder engine, and my 4mil cub, and my 10mil cub
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Here's the dyna curve chart :thumbsup:
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I personally wouldn't run anything higher than +7, but that's my opinion. Also depends on which ignition you run and what curve (if applicable) you're using. I ran up to a 30 shot w/ 7 degrees advance on the plate and it was great...you may be able to run higher, but I never tried it, therefore I can't recommend it...if any of you want to experiment on your own bike, feel free to pass on the results :smile:
As far as the switch, I ran a WOT switch in my throttle housing, so whenever it was pinned it was spraying. If you have a rev limiter, you'll have to wire your nitrous in series with the WOT switch and a clutch lever switch or something...if you don't, it'll be spraying intermittently as it's bouncing off the limiter and you'll be putting on a light show for the crowd when you let it go, lol. You'll blow something up for sure
Pics of my old setup should be posted on here somewhere, probably could do a search and find it if you're interested...Purge setup, fuel pump, battery, solenoid mounts, bottle mount, etc.
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both my bikes are running around 145-150psi and are +10 timing...squish is .0415" and .047"
Try that +10 timing w/ nitrous and you'll be in for a nice surprise!! lol :biggrin:
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I wouldn't spray it at all unless the crank was welded. Just my opinion...
I would also correct your squish, the compression can be either of the two you mentioned, and definitely back the timing down to 7
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haha ok good advice! :biggrin: seriously though what is that most some people have used?
The most I've sprayed is 30, (15 per side), I don't think I'd go any higher than that on my engines...others have sprayed more, but it's a little too risky for my blood, lol
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Gears are already cryo treated, going w/ a billet second gear.
You can spray w/ alcohol, I'm going to...should be fun!!!! WHOOOHOOOO
Nitrous isn't as scary as everyone makes it to be, you just can't make mistakes, LOL
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Here is the kit I bought, but got it about 50 bucks cheaper. The part number for the kit is the same though, and would be a good reference to search by....
http://www.fixthisride.com/showproductdeta...p?prod_id=17233
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Thomas, I plan on keeping it and putting it on for next year, I need to do some minor upgrades to the tranny before I run it again
I got the kit from Henderson Racing, but they are no longer in business. I'll see if I can find a link to the same kit elsewhere
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I ran a NX Pirhanna 2 cyl wet kit last year and was very pleased with its performance. The kit comes just about everything you need, except battery, purge kit, and safety switch...
I bought a battery from a local battery store, not sure of the brand but can try to get you a part number
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I have a dyna FS. and with the exception of pipes/jetting it is the best mod i made to my duner.
So Firehead where can we get the software and cable at?
I feel the same way about mine, I really noticed a difference hooking it up, even without programming...It's nice to hear someone else as pleased w/ their dyna as I am :thumbsup:
I would try ebay, or maybe dyna to get the CD and cable. I think they run about 150 bucks
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lol, as many coils as there are floating around, I think I could find one on ebay for 30-50 bucks :biggrin:
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I too think the stock coil is the way to go.
I love the dyna ignition, I've run one for two years now and noticed a nice difference when I switched from the stock CDI to the dyna, and that is without re-programming it.
I do think the nology coil would prove useful if you're spraying nitrous, or have a forced induction, but on a typical, naturally aspirated engine, the stock coil will provide ample spark, and costs a lot less...
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V-force cages DO make more power on the drag motors... maybe I'll port up a set of stock cages and take them to the dyno with me in the next few weeks and see how well they do against the VF and SRP cages... somehow.. I know they wont fair too well...
That would be cool if it doesn't cost you an arm and leg to test them all, but I can tell you now the ported stockers will fall short, I lost over a tenth ET on my 300' time and the bike didn't pull as hard, and did not rev as crisp as it did with the VF2's.
You guys are talking about the stuffers on 3's, are you talking about the big honkin stuffer that comes with the cages? I don't run it in mine....I have a little insert that takes the place of the stuffer.
If you want, I'll send you a set of ported stockers to dyno with if you want, lol, I just need to get them back :biggrin:
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I went to the drag track friday for the first time and my best run in the 1/8 mile was 9.376 seconds and 73.13 mph. My sprockets are 14/42 and my rear tires are 20 inch knobbies. My reaction times were horrible. My best was .477 seconds. Whats your guys recommendations? I'm getting to the end of fifth gear at the 1/8 th mile.
I think the knobbies are killing your times. What was your 60' time?
On my 350 bike I ran asphalt with, I had 14/41 gearing, only using 1-5 and pulled out a 7.93 @84mph w/ my 300lb ass on it. My friend hopped on the bike and ran a 7.42, no gearing change, just half the weight. Mods were similar to yours, but I had asphalt tires on it, with struts, etc.
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To each his own but but the v3s didnt impress me as much as stock ported reeds while the v3s maybe better for trail riding with a snappier response they dont flow near as good as ported stock ones wot....
lol, OK, if you say so!!! What kind of testing have you done?
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i have never looked at the back of V-3 but the hole in the back of V-2 looked at lot smaller than the back of my 39 PWKs, that seams like it chokes air flow I sold my V-2 and went with modded stock reeds.
It's not a matter of how big the hole is, it's how the air flows through the hole that makes the difference :thumbsup: If you are running a stock port engine, you probably won't notice any difference at all between stock cages, VF2's, and VF3's.
This topic was covered the other day in the mods and repairs section, a simple search would have provided answers. :beer:
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AVG works well and its free. I use it along with zone alarm for the firewall and my PC has been virus free for a while now. :thumbsup:
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You got the facts mixed up on T5's and T6's. T6's are for a stock engine, T5's are better if you plan on modding later.
T5's or Fatties, both are proven and fairly inexpensive. :thumbsup:
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I would run a longer swingarm, a +4 is going to be one heck of a ride up a hill, considering the front end won't want to stay down much as is....
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20" Boss 301's, they don't make these anymore, but it'll give you an idea for style of wheel :beer:
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Will do, and no, the cylinders are completely stock, on their first or second bore needing a fresh bore
Launching in second gear
in Drag Forum
Posted
That's odd, it must be due to different track surfaces and prep. Everywhere I've run, the more air I put in the tires the harder it hooks, and all the other locals do the same thing/have the same effect. Maybe it's the depth the track is cut...I don't know :shrug: