sredish

Get in a cab and ask them to take you to Van Buren street... and there you go. Or just go to Tempe, the college area.

It's funny how everyone has their own ideas on what to do and most probably work. hairspray and spray paint didn't work for me. what's worked the best is 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive in the red tube. You can get it at any auto parts and this stuff sticks. I usually put one thin layer and let it sit for 30 seconds and the goop on one good layer over that and slam the grip on, just be sure to hurry, it doesn't wait around. Scott

To sum it up, bump steer is anything that changes the direction of the front tires other than rider input. Like, hitting a pothole or rut and your tires jamming to the left or right... Typically, you want the center of your wheel, centered over the ball joints of the steering knuckle. Wheel spacers will push the centerline of the wheel far from there and give you some bad bumpsteer, I would NOT recommend it for the front. You can help control bump steer with a steering stabilizer, like Noss Machine sells. I have that exact one and it helps. Another way to eliminate is to move the wheel centerline, like using 4-1 offset wheels, this makes bumpsteer a thing of the past, but it narrows you up an inch on each side, so most peeps won't run it. 3-2 is stock and you shouldn't have problems at that offset. Flipping wheels or using a wider offset can give you problems.

If your have pipes and stock gearing, i say that's part of the problem. your focusing on the 130psi issue too much. That's enough to get the job done if need be. throw a 15 tooth front sprocket on there first and foremost.

I might try, we'll see. It'll probably be hard to get away, but I might be able to make it work. Thanks for the invite... and I promise you I'm no threat...

Got it and they'll be on the way. Pipes are sooold!!

I accept paypal, I'll pm you the address. Scott

The pipes are in good shape with a small amount of rust on the backside of one of them along a weld seam. The stingers have some dents on the bodies of the silencers but they're not too bad. They work fine and are shiny, but just have a couple of dents in them. I'm want $275 shipped firm. If you have any questions, pm me. Scott

probably answers why your left carb cuts out...

It very well may be... I'm really not sure exactly. I'll give them a call next week and find all the important details out. Scott

Hell yea man, we'll get you there. I don't have the exact details on pricing, but the general price is $400 a day... a little steep, but worth it to me. I'm trying to get a group together so we can get a "better" price...

I will make Anadarko, it's only like an hour from the house, maybe 1:15, but still. I can make prerun for sat. and still make it home for dinner... Carlsbad would be killer fun... the NM races are definitely intriguing and with the new trailer... hmmm. I'll do some investigating. You ARE going to make my baja trip next year, right? See the Baja thread I started in this forum...

I have a set of T5's for sale. The pipes are in good condition. The silencers have some dings on them but are still really shiny. I can get pics if you'd like. I'm asking $270 shipped for them. Scott

If your starting in 4th, it sounds like your geared too low. what's your gearing currently. You want it to where 2nd is a little tall but just enough to get a good start.

You race with Ben don't you?

It's a never ending battle and the only people who ever seem to look at those pages are the ones voting for their own site...

Dammit, congrats. Lets see that baby when you get it.

I know Jen well and she's straight up. What she says is what you'll get and she as honest as you'll find. Do I get free shipping if I buy it??

Here's my new racer... Still have the banshee, but it's been downgraded a little, doesn't like quite as pretty...

On my banshee I ran: Trinity 2-1 35mm carb intake Eric Gorr woods port Paul Turner Mid pipes 20cc domes Vforce Reeds +7 timing advance Denton-style stabilizer +2 LSR a-arms 4-1 beadlocks up front Durablue axle Elka dual-rates w/ piggies all around PRM skids, bumper, grab bar stainless lines - they're a must on these machines Frame was gussetted and PC'ed lots and lots of other little stuff but that's the majority of the big stuff. My front 4-1 wheels weren't on in this pic.

Honestly, we can't really answer that. That's in the "every quad is different" philosophy. Chances are, it might be alright, but no one can really tell you. You just have to get there, try it and see how it runs. If it's good, check the plugs and then go for it, if not, then you might have to do a little bit of jetting. My guess is that it'll be just fine. Also, you won't be able to jet for the climate before you get there. You can't put in a "baseline jetting" for somewhere your not because you won't know how it'll run there. You'll have to wait, try the airbox lid and see how it performs, THEN decide if a change in jetting is needed. Hope that helps. Scott

I'm absolutely dead serious and WILL go, just need to make the time and get the peeps together. It's looking (at the moment) that it might not be until fall of next year. That's quite a while, unfortunately, but next spring is out for me because of my wife's b-day and my anniversary.

I should probably go back and edit it in to the first post. I was kind of planning on getting a group together and give enough time for everyone to set aside enough dough and time. I was figuring on next year sometime. Not sure yet tho, haven't gotten that far.

In my "Troubleshooting your jetting" thread stickied at the top of this forum, there's a good section on jetting to different altitudes. Just use what you have now and then it'll explain how to get your new baseline for a different altitude, or at least it should...

Surely you and your bro can bring the yfz's and your dad can come on hiz Z. You'd have to for sure.