sredish

English please sir......... Ok.

sorry to hear that reas, hope your back to it quickly. muscle relaxers always work best for me with back related injuries. cyclobenzaprine is the shit.

Who you callin a stooge? I run a ProFlo with a Uni filter and it is a great setup. I don't think it flows quite as much as the K&N, but filters really really well. I usually run with the lid off in the summer and lid on in the winter.

Yeah, I don't like them at all. My next set of plastics will be Fullbore, no question.

really, we need some mods to tell you what your jetting should be. But if you know that 310 is definitely high for you, like stock bike/stock pipes, then you probably have an air leak. That's the first thing to check.

No, there is a plate behind the flywheel that is bolted in and is your timing. No way to move the plate or no way for it to get out of time this way. There is an aftermarket plate you can get, shown below, that allows you to adjust the timing by rotating the plate. If your asking that question, I doubt you have one, unless a previous put one on. The plate is the thing with the marks on it, I have it set to +4.

You've even tried changing to another carb huh? Hmmm... Have you checked the reeds lately?

I like Razr rears and Razr2 fronts. The Razr2 fronts grip much better in turns.

When you start porting, typical baselines are out the window. With a dune port, your gonna be moving some air so your gonna need some fuel. Like svtkid said, start big. I'm thinking maybe some 180s and see how the plugs look there. Once you get the main, your gonna have to adjust the needle by feel, and I imagine you might want a different taper, depending on what's in there, to really bring out the midrange to top end transition. Later, let us know where you end up so we can add it to our "records". EDIT: Didn't see the PJ part. I haven't worked with PJs and am not too familiar with them. If you start rich then you won't hurt anything and you'll know which way to go for sure.

First thought that comes to mind is tire pressure. Chain tensioners will make you pull some, but I don't think it would in a wheelie. Another thought would be the swingarm being cocked a tad one way, like one tire is a hair closer to the fender then the other. Maybe the swingarm bearings are going bad or something. Just a few thoughts, probably not a good answer.

I wonder if the Toomey 2:1 would fit my single carb??? Hmmmmm....

Check those places, although the pilots are different and you might only be able to get those at the dealer, but carbparts might have them too, don't remember. Most dealers will carry jets, some carry a lot, and some only carry a few, but they should have some. It's usually a little cheaper to get them from the places mentioned above, but for a couple jets, that might only be a few bucks. I'd probably try the stealer first for the three jets mentioned below. Well, I'm not sure what mains you have in there stock, could be a 210, or 220. You should only go up a size or two on the main with just adding the pro-flo kit. I'd try a 230, that should work for the main and you shouldn't need to mess with the needles or pilots. You might buy a 220 and a 240 if you want in case. If you have a 220 in there, then just take it back when your done. One thing about the banshee, every single one is a little different. One machine may run a 300 with pipes, and a machine modded exactly identical may like a 280, so that's why trial and error is so important, they all like it a little different. Let us know if you have any more questions. Later.

Glad you got it worked out. Now let's see some wheelieing pics.

jetting kit's are a waste. You pay 45 bucks for what they think will jet your carb perfectly. They usually include one or two main jets and a couple pilot jets. Some come with a replacement needle. They may work with just a stock motor with pipes, but they can't take into consideration one person may run with the airbox lid on and the other with the lid off, or maybe clamp ons, let alone different reeds, carbs, etc. Half the time, the jets they include aren't even correct for the application they're intended for anyway. We get a lot of people who jet with a kit and come ask us why it doesn't run well. There is no way to jet a carb perfectly except for trial and error, and some plug reading. Your much better off to get a baseline, say from one of us, and then buy the jets you need and make jetting changes to dial your machine in. This way, you have several different jets in the area your motor is set up for that you can use to adjust and dial in, and you only buy what you need, not a whole "kit". You can usually get what you need for a lot less than a whole jet kit. Tell us what your mods are and elevation, and we'll give you a baseline that will get you close. Then, you will have to take it the rest of the way and run some plug chops do your final adjustments that way. You will still have to do this with a jet kit. I know some people don't but that is the correct way to do it. For more info on jetting read BenBB's Jetting FAQ. It will give you an idea on what it takes to jet your machine. For buying individual main jets, pilot jets and such, I recommend either CarbParts.com or MagicRacing.com.

this was on the discovery channel? just the image we want. out jumpin the shee with no helmets on just to get off and start shooting fully automatic weapons and have issues with the federalis. not saying I don't think it's funny, but on public tv where the large majority of the public already has a very bad image of these machines, they're not going to understand the "fun" behind it.

Wait, I got it. I'll just send you my fatties and v force reeds and you can just send me your PT mids, I'll deal with the reeds later. Hope you get it worked out. I started mine up the other day and it was running pretty rich and smoking, in fact I think it fouled, but I'm too sore to go and look. It fouled idling in after some riding. Normally, with my jetting, I'd say it should be rich, but it hasn't been. So, I'm wondering what happened. I'm gonna take off my carb and intake manifold this week, take a peek at the reeds and orings on the trinity manifold and make sure everything is hunky dory. Cool, let us know if you find out the problem. Later.

Damn, I'm gonna need to get my shocks revalved. Helmet, chest protector, boots, kidney belt. That just added 50 lbs to my bike.

The DID X-ring is a very strong chain. You can't go wrong if you decide to go with that.

I run a 15 front and I'm always changing the rear around depending on where I'm riding, mostly just cause I like to screw with it. A 16 would be a little tight with the stock chain. Just go get another master link and a 16 tooth sprocket. If the chain won't loosen enough, then break it and put that link in there.

Make all the changes that you feel you want to make, then jet it all at one time. If you jet it then take the lid off and/or more airbox mods, you'll probably have to rejet. Double the work. Make the changes you want and only jet it once. My opinion. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

I could do this forever. Here's the hill we all used to party at. You can see it where the road cuts up, and the bare spot. Like you all care.

Who the hell wants those??

This is the track I learned on and became the master that I am now. Don't live there anymore though. This is the place that I grew up in and left after high school. Those were the days. Cool freaking place Lee, thanks for finding.

This generally means it's rich and is fouling or about to. You need to adjust your pilot jet and/or air screw settings.

Wolverine's cool, a little underpowered but definitely a cool design. I think I'd like to have my old LT250R back. I'd like to buy one now nonetheless, but I've got enough atvs now.