sredish

let's try this. does your machine require the choke for a cold start? did it get better with the 55? the fact that it's bogging when you lean the needle tells me that it's wanting more fuel. I haven't really seen too many over 55 on the pilot, but I'd say throw the next size up and see what shee does, sounds like it might work. One thing that confuses me is you say sputter and then bog, those are two different things to me, but if it's getting worse as you lean then it makes me think more fuel. let us know.

The D slide 28s are nice. You can pick up another set of stockers for a third or less than the price of the 28s and the performance on the 28's won't be much better. I'm not trying to talk you out of it. Common thought is bigger is better, but really, you need just the right size to match the airflow of your motor, too big and airflow slows down and perf. loss, too small and you lose volume and therefore perf. loss. Banchetta did a lot of testing on this not too long ago and he concluded that the stock size matched a non ported motor really well. I agree that the stockers can be a pita (that's why i run a single carb) but if we're talking performance, then that's the answer. If you want to go ahead and make a purchase to last you through more mods later, like porting and such, the 28's would be definitely be a good purchase and you could bore them to a 30 later on if you wanted them a little bigger. If it was me, I'd probably go ahead and get 28s cause I hate to buy something and then have to rebuy it later, and i hate the stock carbs. let us know how you end up.

you can run a +4 and be all right. really, you can run more than that, but Banchetta has ran some dyno tests and found that +4 is about the best overall. That setting also poses no real problems with your machine and unless you have over 155 lbs of compression requires only 92 octane. Honestly, if your going to advance it, there's no reason to do any less than +4, +2 isn't going to make much difference anyway. for even more throttle response, let boonman lighten your flywheel for you while your plate comes. He can have it back to you by the time your plate comes generally and really works well with the advanced timing. just pm him for price, and it ain't much. Later.

also, check the weight difference between the 20s and 22s. the 22's would be ideal if they're not much heavier and use as little air as possible. you'll also need the biggest fronts you can get because your tires will want to dive in. you might consider getting some much wider fronts to help you float. later.

that's exactly what i was thinking, some super swampers or vampires. a heavy lugged mud tire would be better for you than a san tire i think, although, watch the weight closely. obviously, the mudders would be heavier, but I don't know by how much. If weight is an issue, Sand Skates just might be your best bet. They're great but not overly grippy. That's my complaint with them in the sand, great but not super grippy.

that's funny. anything's possible i guess. one thing, the frame isn't all that strong to be supporting deer off the back of with a rack and all so some supporting might be necessary, as i've heard of people bending the frame with just a six pack rack, but they were probably jumping with a lot of shit in there. i don't think the noise would be the best for hunting unless you had some arrestors. if you end up trying it, then we will most certainly need pics.

Power wise, the stock carbs will give you the best overall performance without any porting. I wouldn't worry about a different carb setup until you get portwork done altogether, unless your wanting something like a single carb setup for more low and mid power. If you search for dyno sheets, Banchetta once had some dyno sheets to prove this. There are also some dyno sheets that show 33's are best with portwork, so don't get confused as to which sheet your looking at.

does it just cut out and die or sound wet and drowning? I'm with sick boy, check out how clean the carbs are and see if you have something clogging the main jet. do you run an inline fuel filter? 3/4 - full is definitely the main jet so focus your attention there. messing with other things to try to fix it might mess up your jetting and complicate things. later.

here's a pic of the case halves. the case half in the picture is 8 ticks from the top mark and i have it set to +4. be sure that the coil pickup has the proper clearance. that seems to be a common issue as to not starting after replacing stator. Scott

Yeah, i was thinking of getting the flywheel off. To remove the nut, just use an impact. To put it back on, put your impact on the lowest setting and then just bump it on, and that should be just about right.

I will say Elkas are very very handy in handling the bigger air. I would never attempt big air with the stockers.

that's fine if you want to run a plug test. i will say, however, that i have a lot of experience with dealers, and i'd say that maybe 10% actually know where to start with jetting mods. in fact, most say just reference the jet kits that come with pipes and such and it becomes problematic if they don't have a suggested jetting. I'm not saying he's wrong, but for him to just say that 240 is okay tells me he's not giving it too much thought, especially considering you ahve a 250 with the pipes, is he saying that you should go down with the added airfilter? If your at 250, then a more free flowing air filter should be good for a size or two, maybe three depending on what kind and how free flowing. Before you make any change, you should run a plug check to see how much difference there is.

does it only do it when it's cold? does it foul plugs if you let it idle for a few? does it cold start without the choke? what's your premix ratio?

it's called a flywheel removal tool. it costs about $8, and without it, you can potentially damage shit. get it from your dealer, or maybe a bud has one.

that's complete bullshit. a cooler plug is not going to make your engine run cooler, in fact, that's so ridiculous i almost want to laugh. a plug's heat range has to match the heat of the combustion chamber. the "heat range" is actually the rating as to how fast the plug disperses heat. if it doesn't disperse heat quickly enough then it will melt, if it disperses heat too quickly, then it won't get hot enough to get an efficient spark. That's why you must match the heat range of the plug to the heat of the chamber. the only way to know if your plug is the correct heat range is by looking at the ground strap at the tip of the plug. there is a slight color change that occurs on this strap. If the color changes near its end where it sits over the center electrode, then the spark plug heat range is too cold and what you're seeing is the color changing due to the heat transferring too quickly. If the color changes color near where it's welded to the base ring, then your spark plug is too hot and what you're seeing is a slower heat transfer from the ground strap to the base ring. Ideally, you want the ground strap to change color at about the half way point, about where it makes it's 'L' shaped bend. That would be the only reason to change heat ranges, do not change, unless your plug color shows it is necessary.

dammit, wish i'da known that sooner, now it's too late...

I read somewhere on the net that there's a big group trying to get Sand Mountain closed due to the "Sand Mountain Blue Butterfly" or some shit. Said it is an endangered species and it's the only natural habitat. I read that they've been pushing pretty hard and there's a slight chance they could get it done. Dunno, just thought i'd pass that along.

ok, if i see one i'll let you know.

unless i'm drunk and mistaken, that's how they do ice racing. shouldn't have a prob. why don't you just get a snowmoshee kit with the front skis and rear tracks that mount in place of your tires. if i still lived in co, i'd have my shee set up for snomosheeing in the winter without a doubt.

Isn't that one of those Global Pussy Sensors? I've been thinking about getting one...

oh yea, i'm all about the triple humdinger.

no f'ing way would they do that with mine. here's how it goes: punk - dude, that's a nice banshee. me - yea, thanks. punk - dude, think i can take it for a spin. me - yea, i don't think so. punk - aww, come on, i'll just go down there and back. me - got shit in your ears? punk - man, don't be an ass. me - dude, f*ck the hell off before my fancy fox boots end up knee deep in your ass. and that ain't no shit!!

you must've read my mind. 40mm lectron...

Breaking up, hmmm, sputtering, blubbering, sounds wet and throaty or like it's runnin out of gas? I agree with loco, my experience (what little it may be) seems to lead me to believe that midrange pipes like a slightly fatter pilot. 27.5's will probably be your ticket. I'd try that and see how she does, and I'd think the 4th clip should work fine. My Fatties with stock carbs were 310s/4th clip/27.5 with same reeds and airbox mods. Give it a try and get back.

showoff... btw - nice warning sticker.