Running rich and sputters when cold

[phxrider]

I've been reading topics on this forum, but I just want to make sure I'm headed in the right direction.

 

My bike starts good (first or second kick with the choke half out), but at take off when the shee's been sitting in the garage for a few weeks, it kind of sputters but then cleans up after running for a while. Ever since I bought the bike, I always knew that something was missing, it just doesn't have the clean snap my brother's shee has. I can pop new plugs in, and it runs great for a while. I mostly feel the hesitation when I'm dunning. I have to shift down a lot to get around when I slow down and really have to gas it. What gets on my nerves is that I'll gas it, but then really kicks in a few seconds later. I pulled my plugs when I was at Glamis for Halloween and it's running rich. I went on the BHQ ride at Glamis but didn't think to ask the guys about it....Dumb a$$!!!!

 

Now, since the bike hesitates around mid when I'm dunning, I should raise my clip up one? should I mess with the main?

 

These are my mods:

13 - 41 Gearing, Stock motor, T5's, Filters w/no air box, 320 Main, 30 Pilot, Screws 1- 1/2 out, Needle at third Clip.

[dajogejr]

Bump the pilot down to a 27.5. You don't need that big of a pilot with T5 pipes.

That will clean it up off the bottom. With that big of a pilot, I'm surprised you have to pull the choke at all to start it.

 

Leave the needle as is. Is it the stock needle or Toomey/DynoJet needle?

If the bottom cleans up, but it's blubbery in the middle, then lean out the needle one clip (one clip towards the blunt end)

 

Mains sound about right....I ran 340 is my same setup, pods and T5s.

 

With a 13 tooth, it should be ripping through the gears.

 

Two off the wall questions for you.

 

What kind and how many rows of paddles? (Many people often over paddle their banshee, they gotta spin a little)

 

How much compression does your motor have (fresh or worn out can be even more so evident in the dunes, they flat out rob power)....

[phxrider]

Bump the pilot down to a 27.5. You don't need that big of a pilot with T5 pipes.

That will clean it up off the bottom. With that big of a pilot, I'm surprised you have to pull the choke at all to start it.

 

Leave the needle as is. Is it the stock needle or Toomey/DynoJet needle?

If the bottom cleans up, but it's blubbery in the middle, then lean out the needle one clip (one clip towards the blunt end)

 

Mains sound about right....I ran 340 is my same setup, pods and T5s.

 

With a 13 tooth, it should be ripping through the gears.

 

Two off the wall questions for you.

 

What kind and how many rows of paddles? (Many people often over paddle their banshee, they gotta spin a little)

 

How much compression does your motor have (fresh or worn out can be even more so evident in the dunes, they flat out rob power)....

 

I forgot what my compression is. I had it checked at the shop and they told me it was still in the good range. They wrote the compression down on the work order. I'm running 20x10x10 8-paddle haulers and the needle is stock.

 

Should I start with 1 1/2 out on the Pilot when I change it?

[dajogejr]

Ok...tires should be ok. 8 row is good for a stockish motor, piped shee...

 

Put the 27.5 pilots in, turn the screws out 1 turn.

 

Warm up the bike fully. Turn each screw in .5 turns, so...they're out .5 total.

 

Wait 20 seconds for the bike to recognize the adjustment. Go for a ride. Come back, turn them .5 out, same thing, wait....go for a ride.

 

You want the air screw set for the highest possible idle, then it's perfect. Then adjust the idle screws if need be. You want to idle in the 1400 to 1600 RPM range....again, fully warmed up.

 

You need to allow 20 seconds in between air screw adjustments to let the new setting "take"...

 

Hope this helps.

 

Stock needle should be fine at the middle (3rd) clip.

[phxrider]

Ok...tires should be ok. 8 row is good for a stockish motor, piped shee...

 

Put the 27.5 pilots in, turn the screws out 1 turn.

 

Warm up the bike fully. Turn each screw in .5 turns, so...they're out .5 total.

 

Wait 20 seconds for the bike to recognize the adjustment. Go for a ride. Come back, turn them .5 out, same thing, wait....go for a ride.

 

You want the air screw set for the highest possible idle, then it's perfect. Then adjust the idle screws if need be. You want to idle in the 1400 to 1600 RPM range....again, fully warmed up.

 

You need to allow 20 seconds in between air screw adjustments to let the new setting "take"...

 

Hope this helps.

 

Stock needle should be fine at the middle (3rd) clip.

 

 

Thanks! I'll try that.

 

 

 

So when you say .5 on the screws, are you talking about the air screws?

[dajogejr]

Thanks! I'll try that.

So when you say .5 on the screws, are you talking about the air screws?

 

That's exactly right. The flat head screws just above where the bowl meets, close to your airbox boots/clamp on filters.

 

DO NOT over tighten these to seat them, gentle seat is all you need. That brass nose is soft, no need to disform it.

[g-force]

i think a 320 main sounds a little rich. i would try a 290-300. thats what i ran with your setup, before porting. also mine ran best with the stock pilot-25. needle in the middle.

[phxrider]

i think a 320 main sounds a little rich. i would try a 290-300. thats what i ran with your setup, before porting. also mine ran best with the stock pilot-25. needle in the middle.

 

Ok, I replaced my Pilots with 27.5's but I forgot to turn them out 1. I was thinking the turning out was only on the air screws. When I pulled my 30's, they where screwed in all the way. So, is it important to go back and turn them out?

 

I didn't run the bike yesterday cause it was late and I didn't want to piss off the neighbors.

[dajogejr]

It will not run right with the air screws turned all the way in. Yes, they need to be turned out.

[phxrider]

It will not run right with the air screws turned all the way in. Yes, they need to be turned out.

 

Sorry! I should explain a little better.

 

Ok, the air screws need to be turned out and set to where it runs better, but what about the Pilot? Is it suppose to be turned out or just seated in all the way?

 

I did turn it on yesterday, and I noticed that it idles better. I can turn my brother's shee on with choke half out, and his bike will idle with it on, my bike won't? I'll pull the choke out half way, start it and have to push it back in immediately or it'll die.

[dajogejr]

Sorry! I should explain a little better.

 

Ok, the air screws need to be turned out and set to where it runs better, but what about the Pilot? Is it suppose to be turned out or just seated in all the way?

 

I did turn it on yesterday, and I noticed that it idles better. I can turn my brother's shee on with choke half out, and his bike will idle with it on, my bike won't? I'll pull the choke out half way, start it and have to push it back in immediately or it'll die.

 

D'oh....yeah, sorry.

The pilot is snug in the seat just like the main jet.

 

The air screw is adjustable....

[Yamahammer]

Youre reeds may br going soft or not seating properly either you can pull the intakes off and check tention on them or see if they are gapped if they are week or gapped it will run rich and slugish also. But it sounds liek a jetting issue. You can remove the carb intake still atached and look in the hole at the reeds also and tuch them to see how hard or soft they are.

[phxrider]

D'oh....yeah, sorry.

The pilot is snug in the seat just like the main jet.

 

The air screw is adjustable....

 

Took the bike out for a ride, but it still kind of sputters a little at take off. But when I ride it for a while, it doesn't do it anymore, only when I first take off after turning it on and warming it up.

 

I don't have an open spot to go full throttle, I'll have to wait tell the weekend to do that. With a 320 main, should I try dropping it down one, or try the needle up one?

 

I'll check the reeds today.

Edited November 17, 2006 by phxrider

[dajogejr]

Adjust the air screws when it's warmed up for better response, but....to be honest, if it runs fine once warmed up, I'd leave it be.

[phxrider]

Adjust the air screws when it's warmed up for better response, but....to be honest, if it runs fine once warmed up, I'd leave it be.

 

I did mention it was running rich, but didn't mention that my plugs where pretty wet when I pulled them out at Glamis. When plugs are fouled, will a rich Pilot or clip position cause this if your good on your main?

 

Oh yeah! and I just noticed that I have toomey needles (6 notches) and set to the third clip. I moved it up one and it feels a lot better when reving it up, plus my slides where out of sync to. I'm sure learning a lot here.

 

Well, I'll let you know how it rides at Glamis this weekend, and I am taking a set of smaller jets.

Edited November 20, 2006 by phxrider