White97Banshee

I'd be interested in the kicker if it hasn't been sold yet, LMK please.

I've never heard squeaking that bad before.. But yeah I think just grease the living hell out of everything and see where that gets you. Yeah a plain ol' grease gun hand powered or pneumatic will work (be careful with the pneumatic ones they are very powerful) and i think just that plain old grease for stock bushings. You only need special grease when you use polyurethane bushings.

Looks good, maybe more pics of different angles?

I would just go through it and make sure everything is tight all suspension and steering related fasteners as well as grease every zerk fitting on the bike. There might be one hidden in the pivot bearing on the swingarm itself I can't remember it's been a while since I've looked. Check the dogbone too see if it's got any zerk fittings as well. Hope that helps. Kyle

If your thumb gets tired then just get an extended thumb throttle lever from Cascade. They're like 30 bucks for a brushed finish billet aluminum and for me it completely got rid of the thumb fatigue. After riding with the extended thumb lever on the Shee even my new YFZ tired me out so I got one for it too. A twister is kinda rough in patches of whoops if you get stuck in bumps and can't let off the throttle it could be bad. Another thing is it could be difficult to throttle it while turning the bars to the right. JMO. Kyle

The one that is not grinded is after the 6th gear slot, thus there is no point in grinding that one. There is one point that has a U on it, rather than being rounded out. That is neutral and the slot before that is 1st gear if you spin it clockwise. It goes 1st (N) 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th then the pointy tip. No need to grind off much just round out the points is all. I bought one from Cascade for 35 bucks but the stocker can easily be modified with a bench grinder and a steady hand or a vice and an angle grinder. Hope that helps! Kyle

The one I patched up was the right side cylinder and the left was neither side leaks I know this for sure. I'm just stumped as to why the left side blew and the right has no signs of detonation whatsoever. I know it's not from a lean condition as it would more than likely have siezed before burning a hole in the piston. My water pump is still fine and there are no problems with coolant flowing so detonation is the only thing I can think possible but I just can't see using 3 month old gas as a problem. I think you're right about the plastic container though because I don't use fuel stabilizer as I usually run my gas before it gets a chance to turn old. Hopefully someone can confirm my thoughts and address the other 2 questions.

First off, my mods are: Toomey T5's, stock carbs jetted 27.5 pilots 1.5 turns out 330 mains, k&n pods, vf2 reeds. I took the 'shee to oregon for some dune riding this weekend and shee was running real strong for the first couple hours but after a few runs through the trails and treeshots it started taking a dump on me all of the suddon like it completely lost compression and wouldn't stay running. I took it home and today i tore it apart and found the left side piston has a hole in it and it looks like almost like a slab of concrete and the left side combustion chamber is destroyed. Now I know that I don't have any intake leaks and I know my jetting is 1 size too rich (I keep it that way so I don't have to rejet to ride where I live and at sea level). I run her at 40:1 on Klotz Supertechniplate. I think it's detonation but I run a stock head on 92 octane pump gas so I don't know why it would be detonating? The only thing I could think of was the gas I was running was a few months old but it WAS premix and I regularly shake it up and keep the fuel and oil mixed well. Could running old gas cause detonation? Another thing since I have the top end apart I was wondering what's a good amount of play to have in the crank? How much side-to-side motion should a stock crank have? I know too much/too little is a bad thing but since I'm already replacing the top end I want to see if I need to either pick up a new crank or get mine trued/welded while I got it apart. ONE last thing, I pulled the clutch case off and noticed a washer sitting in there and the idler gear between the clutch basket and the kicker gear is very loose on there. I know F.A.S.T makes replacement bushings for the gear as well as the circlip that holds it in place and the washer itself (mine is bent pretty badly) but is there a way to tell that just putting a new bushing in there will work? Thanks in advance and sorry for the essay! Kyle

So are flat slides "better" than round or D slides? It seems like jetting would be different with flat than D or round because of that.

x2 my tusk case saver came with 3 longer allen head screws but they were too long so i had to use washers to make it work but now everything is peachy.

Bump

You can tell if you're leaking coolant into the cylinders by checking your coolant level and seeing if it has been dropping a little. Also if your exhaust is spewing out white smoke that smells sweet that's another indicator. But the best thing to do is pull the head off and take a peek for yourself and get that stud fixed ASAP.

ATF Type-F. I get the Walmart brand at $2.67 per quart and it makes my shee shift like a dream. Doesn't last very long though but at that price you're still saving money and getting the same if not better performance as the more expensive stuff like Klotz and Belray etc..

No, don't follow the arrows. Adjust it till you can feel the pushrod touching the ball slightly, then go 1/2 a turn more, then tighten the jamb nut. Also make sure while you're doing this the cable is all the way loose on the lever. The arrows might be accurate for a brand new cable but one that's been used and stretched out will be different than a brand new one. I have chain whack on my cases so there ain't any arrows so I looked at the Clymer's manual and found that procedure. Hope that helps!

If it were base or head gaskets it would be in your cylinders but it sounds like it could be leaking through whatever was used to bond the cases together. Might be time to split em, scrape the old stuff and put new sealer and slap em back together. Just make sure you let it cure for at least 24 hours so this doesn't happen again.