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Posted

first would like to say hi all.

 

i recently bought a 1989 banshee its not my first banshee so am not that lost with the shee's

well this bike was barely even running when i got it,took the carbs off and it had a 200 main on one side and a 220 main on the other side(the guy was a complete jack ass ) the pilots are stock on both,i need some help on where to start and what jets should i be using along with what pilots should be right for the following mod's THANKS GUYS!

 

miami - sea level 60-90F

 

uni foam pods

 

fmf gold series power core silencers

 

stock porting

 

stock carbs

 

stock reeds and cages

 

stock timing

 

tors is still on there!!

Posted

Try...

 

240's or 250's on the mains

Stock Pilot

Needle on the 3rd

Airscrews out 1.5

Do a plug chop and go from there...

This "Should" be close to start...

 

Good luck...

Posted
I had a similar set up and live close to you. I ran a 260main needle slot 3 and a 27.5 pilot. Ran good with no bog.

 

I was gonna say 260's but with that elevation heat and humidity I wasnt sure if 260 might be to fat...

You will be real close with these numbers dude...

Posted

Hey guys i re-jetted the bike i put 280 mains and left the stock pilots now aim not sure on the air screw position i dont really understand whats a full turn and a half turn(but i belive it's right the way i adjusted it. ) .the problem am having is that the bike is turning off when i hit the gas in first gear it just bogs dead i can kinda ride it wehen i rev it really high and ride the cluth to get it not to bogg,but still will turn off as soon as i shift to second .can it be the air screw position if so can some one darw me a lil diagram on the air srew position like 1/4 1/2 and full

 

 

thanks alot by the way the bike sounds way better and idles well

Posted (edited)
Hey guys i re-jetted the bike i put 280 mains and left the stock pilots now aim not sure on the air screw position i dont really understand whats a full turn and a half turn(but i belive it's right the way i adjusted it. ) .the problem am having is that the bike is turning off when i hit the gas in first gear it just bogs dead i can kinda ride it wehen i rev it really high and ride the cluth to get it not to bogg,but still will turn off as soon as i shift to second .can it be the air screw position if so can some one darw me a lil diagram on the air srew position like 1/4 1/2 and full

 

 

thanks alot by the way the bike sounds way better and idles well

 

I still think that 280's might be a hair fat, but I'm no expert. The airscrews are as follows... Turn

them all the way in (Clockwise) but do not torque them to tight. You are using a straight blade

screwdriver so pretend the recessed part of the screw is the hand of a clock. Once screwed all the

way in if the hand is on 2 o'clock, then one full turn out (counter-clockwise) would be back at

2 o'clock. 1.5 would be counter-clockwise back to 2, then past to 8 o'clock. Does this help. The

correct number of turns out may be 1 turn, 1.25 turns, etc... Just make sure both screws are out

the same amount. NOTE one carb might be at 2 o'clock fully seated, and the other may be at

4 o'clock... The idle/air screw's control idle speed, and off idle throttle response...

 

Good luck and report back...

Edited by mdhc500
Posted
I still think that 280's might be a hair fat, but I'm no expert. The airscrews are as follows... Turn

them all the way in (Clockwise) but do not torque them to tight. You are using a straight blade

screwdriver so pretend the recessed part of the screw is the hand of a clock. Once screwed all the

way in if the hand is on 2 o'clock, then one full turn out (counter-clockwise) would be back at

2 o'clock. 1.5 would be counter-clockwise back to 2, then past to 8 o'clock. Does this help. The

correct number of turns out may be 1 turn, 1.25 turns, etc... Just make sure both screws are out

the same amount. NOTE one carb might be at 2 o'clock fully seated, and the other may be at

4 o'clock... The idle/air screw's control idle speed, and off idle throttle response...

 

Good luck and report back...

 

but would this be part of the problem on why the bike shuts dowm as soon as i let off the clutch

Posted
you need to put in at least 27.5 pilots. change the pilots to 27.5 and the mains to 310 and report back.

 

You want him to go fatter? Lets get his bike running first, then worry about the mains... You should also

be fine with the stock needles. I honestly dont think his bike is modded that heavily.

Posted
but would this be part of the problem on why the bike shuts dowm as soon as i let off the clutch

 

Is is bogging/spitting/sputtering then shuting off, or is it BOOM it shuts off? Are you giving it

fuel and riding the clutch out? Please be a bit more descriptive. Also how does it act in nuetral?

Can you rev it up, etc...

Posted

are the carbs in sync? first off make sure they are in sync.

start off, needle on middle clip, 25 (stock) pilot, 320 mains, air screws

2 turns from lightly seated.

When i had fattys on my bike, i used a 340 main and it hit pretty hard.

set one jetting circuit at a time. Get it idling and do a plug chop to see

where you are on your mains then go from there.

Posted
You want him to go fatter?

 

yes, fattys seem to like the 27.5 pilots. mine is currently running 30 pilots, but i'll soon be trying 32.5's. he has pod filters, which are getting more air into the engine and he has fatty pipes. thats good enough for me to say, you need at least 27.5 pilots and like 300-320 mains. leave the needles alone and put the air screws at 2 turns out from lightly seated/closed. do this and report back.

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