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Posted
As long as you stay with a 115mm rod on a 10mil you dont need any welding. And there are some that do 120mm rods on a 10mil and do not weld. Just luck of the draw on the cases. Just like some throw a 5mil stroker crank in with no trenching and some have to trench for a 5 mil stroker.

 

I was the unlucky luck of the draw and had to get my cases done after my trench was made for my 10mill.

 

Rico most people don't have 7s cause your still gonna have to trench the cases and a 10 is only a bike length faster (from what i gathered a while back) than a 7 so you might as well just put a 10 in it. I had the same situation when i went to upgrade my crank on my bike so that's why i'm putting a 10 in mine.

Posted
So my cousin decided to build a drag bike. I dont know everything about them anymore so I want you guys to start naming off some of the crucial stuff we need. He has a stock frame he is gonna chop up and add a sub frame to. I think he wants to build probably a 7 mill something??????????? Cheetah, small block, etc........ What about pipes, he wants out of frames, but they will probably need to have silencers or legalizers on them. I think we may run E85 in it, or full race gas. I was thinking of having mp, packard or K&T do the port work.

 

Back to your question some good straight cut gears is a good investment as well.

Posted

That is alot like asking Ford or Chevy...

 

In My Opinion, the cubs run probably the best right out of the box. Clean up the casting flaws.

Twister run very well, they generally need a little more grinding on them...still, a very nice setup.

 

Cheetahs are good motors. Problem is everything is different, but that's good.

Different head, bigger Cheetahs take different exhaust, different reed cages, and you have to buy the pistons from Trinity.

Posted
Depending on what kind of cylinder he gets, it more than likely won't need to be welded.

 

bigger than 4 requires trenching, and 7 or 10 mil crank and castings are usually the same price.

The only reason to go with 7 is if you get a steal on a setup or because of class cc size restrictions.

 

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long long time ago, when the only cylinder on the banshee was the stock cylinder, the 7mill was popular because you are able to use it with standard sleeve and the 10 mill need longer sleeve....it's not a question of trenching (7 or 10 mill you have to trench the case) but a question of cylinder sleeve on stock cylinder. On cub, you order your cub for a 10 mill, you have the sleeve for 10 mill, but in stock cylinder, you have to resleeve ($$$) if you want 10 mill and not if you want 7 mill

 

it's my theory about the 7 or 10 mill crank

 

 

what do you think about that ?

Posted

as far as motor work i would say lynn at lcperformance..........by now a few of you guys from the site have seen some of his bikes run..........my 10 mil twister is a runner.....if i had to do it all over again i would with out a dought build another twister[thats my vote]......i broke 2nd gear on it last weekend so add to your list a billet second gear//////// :thumbsup:

Posted

We aren't going to have anyone we dont know of build it, this LC guy is definitely someone I never heard of. Its either gonna be a Patriot, ILR, Dave Moore, Packard, RDZ, Twister, RSR, or a redline bike.

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