okbeast Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 Fried a clutch plate to a metal couple months ago and just got a new clutch setup put in this last weekend. Everything seems to be adjusted correctly (arrow on top, etc.) and it works ok, but to get it to not crawl forward at the line I have to have it adjusted so far out at the clutch perch that there is no slack or play up there. I have read that this isn't good for them. Do I need to adjust the clutch arm to one side or the other of the arrow on the cases or what? Does anyone make a longer piece that screws into the clutch perch? thanks Quote
Bansh-eman Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 dont live off the arrows. when my clutch is properly adjusted the arrows dont match up at all. what i do is turn the adjusster out so i know its not touching. then start turning it in to where i feel it hit the ball. then back it off maybe 1/4 turn and tighten the pressure plate back down. Quote
okbeast Posted March 18, 2008 Author Report Posted March 18, 2008 dont live off the arrows. when my clutch is properly adjusted the arrows dont match up at all. what i do is turn the adjusster out so i know its not touching. then start turning it in to where i feel it hit the ball. then back it off maybe 1/4 turn and tighten the pressure plate back down. Hm, never thought of that. I'm guessing you do this with the clutch cable disconnected at the top? Quote
Bansh-eman Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 it doesnt matter for how i set mine. i just turn the screw in until i feel it hit. its not the "proper" way to do it but its the only way i have been able to get my clutch to function right without the bike lunging forward when i put it in gear Quote
okbeast Posted March 18, 2008 Author Report Posted March 18, 2008 it doesnt matter for how i set mine. i just turn the screw in until i feel it hit. its not the "proper" way to do it but its the only way i have been able to get my clutch to function right without the bike lunging forward when i put it in gear and i can see that ideally...keeping it from welding the rod/ball and all that. Quote
Bansh-eman Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 and i can see that ideally...keeping it from welding the rod/ball and all that. well i run the pancake as well Quote
okbeast Posted March 18, 2008 Author Report Posted March 18, 2008 meh, i just check the oil alot. prolly throw the pancake in there this summer. so far, quite a few dune trips, not much trouble. Quote
fun_on_the_sand Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 dont live off the arrows. when my clutch is properly adjusted the arrows dont match up at all. what i do is turn the adjusster out so i know its not touching. then start turning it in to where i feel it hit the ball. then back it off maybe 1/4 turn and tighten the pressure plate back down. Hey I have kind of the same problem, my banshee will start moving when I shift from neutral to 1st and it's a pain in the a55 to get it into neutral if the engine is running. I checked the arrow and everything looks alinged... can you explain more into detail how do you adjust yours? I guess I'm not sure what you call the adjuster, is that at the perch or the screw in the center of the pressure plate? Thanks Quote
Bansh-eman Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 i take all the tension off the perch. the adjuster thats in the center of the clutch pressure plate has a locknut and a screw in the center. i turn the screw out far enough that i know its not touching the ball behind it. then i start to turn it in and once i feel it hit the ball i back it off 1/4 turn and tighten the pressure plate back down. i dont even bother with the arrows cause mine do not line up at all. Quote
Pardee208 Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 jeff from FAST says to adjust the arrow 1/4 to 1/8in to the stator side of the motor, i know not every clutch is the same but when you buy a new fast clutch that is what he recemends, a tusk kit and a fast kit have differences, depends on what you have! I second bansh-eman's method though :thumbsup: Quote
okbeast Posted March 18, 2008 Author Report Posted March 18, 2008 i'm guessing if the arrow is to the stator side, that means it would add more holding power right? Quote
Bansh-eman Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 i'm guessing if the arrow is to the stator side, that means it would add more holding power right? in logic it should... Quote
fun_on_the_sand Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 well i run the pancake as well Hey guys, what is the pancake? how does it work? what advantage does it have from the stock config? how easy it is to install? Thank you Quote
Bansh-eman Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=193 it is an adjuster that has a bearing on it so the ball and rod will not weld together. Very easy to install, you just pull the pressure plate and pop the old one out, and pop the new one in. and re adjust the clutch Quote
fun_on_the_sand Posted March 18, 2008 Report Posted March 18, 2008 (edited) http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=193 it is an adjuster that has a bearing on it so the ball and rod will not weld together. Very easy to install, you just pull the pressure plate and pop the old one out, and pop the new one in. and re adjust the clutch Thanks I'll put that on my wish list for the next "pay check cut" one more question, what are the symptoms when the rod and ball are welded together? Edited March 18, 2008 by fun_on_the_sand Quote
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