Stripping anodize...

[Fireroad Express]

like i said, checking the surface for continuity with a multimeter once you've got the layers stripped, is the only real way to tell if the anodizing is completely gone. no continuity and your anodise layer is still there.

[the_hog]

Drano. Used it to strip some purple annodizing off the steering rods on my sled. Read up.

 

http://www.slednutz.com/showthread.php?t=528

Edited March 11, 2008 by the_hog

[Bansh-eman]

If that worked, you parts were not actually anodized in the first place. Thuy were wither painted or just dipped in dye without going through an andozing process.

thats the thing Mark, the majority of these companies that are doing "anodizing" are NOT actually doing the anodizing process and instead are doing the dye process and sealing it. thats wy these guys are able to get it off with the over cleaner

[Fireroad Express]

there is also a very short window for the anodised part to absorb the dye. this is appox 10-15min .after that the porous anodise layer closes up significantly reducing it's abiltiy to absorb color pigment. if one company is doing the anodizing and shipping it out to another location to get dyed and sealed, the part will not absorb much color pigment if any at all. this would explain the half-assed finishes on some of the r/c car parts. also, with huge runs or batches of parts being done at the same time, the anodisers are probably only putting the parts in the tank long enough to produce a very thin anodise layer . just enough to absorb the color pigment and save on the electricty. alot of power is required to put on or "grow "a layer thick enough to retain the color.

[Bansh-eman]

when i used to send off paintball parts to get anodized a guy in PA that did all my andoizing told me to think of it as staining the metal. that a proper anodize should make the metal become almost stained as to where it actually takes on the color rather then having a layer of film over the top thats sealed in

[FireHead]

there is also a very short window for the anodised part to absorb the dye. this is appox 10-15min .after that the porous anodise layer closes up significantly reducing it's abiltiy to absorb color pigment. if one company is doing the anodizing and shipping it out to another location to get dyed and sealed, the part will not absorb much color pigment if any at all. this would explain the half-assed finishes on some of the r/c car parts. also, with huge runs or batches of parts being done at the same time, the anodisers are probably only putting the parts in the tank long enough to produce a very thin anodise layer . just enough to absorb the color pigment and save on the electricty. alot of power is required to put on or "grow "a layer thick enough to retain the color.

It makes me feel better that atleast one of you guys actually understands what anodizing is. :thumbsup:

[JKJK]

If that worked, you parts were not actually anodized in the first place. Thuy were wither painted or just dipped in dye without going through an andozing process.

These are the parts i was refering too.I have no doubt the were anodized.

[FireHead]

These are the parts i was refering too.I have no doubt the were anodized.

I assuming we are talking about the blue part of the grill. The bright areas of that grill were not anodized.

[JKJK]

No,The blue part is painted.The grill+bezels were originally stamped+anodized by Chevy at the factory+installed that way before they left the plant. The rest of the trim that wasn't stainless on my 66 was also anodized.Believe me those parts looked nothing like that when i started.

[FireHead]

No,The blue part is painted.The grill+bezels were originally stamped+anodized by Chevy at the factory+installed that way before they left the plant. The rest of the trim that wasn't stainless on my 66 was also anodized.Believe me those parts looked nothing like that when i started.

The bright areas of that grill in that picture are not anodized, or atleast they are not anymore. :thumbsup: