Float level

[Snopczynski]

Anyone remember what the float level is in the stock carbs?

 

I know its measured from the bowl mating surface without the gasket, but I can remember if you measure to the seam on the float or whatever it was?

 

If I remember correctly, you tip the carb at a 90 degree angle and work it around towards a 45 degree angle. While adjusting the floats, so at spec the needle arm just starts to touch the top of the needle, correct?

[Bansh-eman]

its like 18mm i want to say.

 

you flip the carb upside down. and messure from the lip to the top of the float... dont bend the tab on the needle seat, you want to bend the metal the flaots are on to change it.

Edited October 27, 2007 by Bansh-eman

[XxMeltIcexX]

its like 18mm i want to say.

 

you flip the carb upside down. and messure from the lip to the top of the float... dont bend the tab on the needle seat, you want to bend the metal the flaots are on to change it.

 

Close, its 21mm.. Give or take 1mm and make sure you bend the float tang (metal piece) not the seat correct... Man i'm slow today..

[Hilarious]

Anyone remember what the float level is in the stock carbs?

 

clymers says 20-22mm :thumbsup:

[Snopczynski]

So it is to the top of the float? Does clymer say to where also?

[Bansh-eman]

i dont know what the clymer says but i know its the lip to the top of the float.

[XxMeltIcexX]

So it is to the top of the float? Does clymer say to where also?

 

21 mm is the distance between the mating surface of the flat chamber (without gasket) and top of the float, not the molding line.

[Snopczynski]

I know my cousin already bent the needle contact arm trying to set it. I cant remember what the float looks like. If it is 2 floats, wouldn't it be more accurate to bend the contact arm? Rather than bending the float arms and trying to get them even?

[XxMeltIcexX]

I know my cousin already bent the needle contact arm trying to set it. I cant remember what the float looks like. If it is 2 floats, wouldn't it be more accurate to bend the contact arm? Rather than bending the float arms and trying to get them even?

 

Either way works, the way i see it, as long as the float needle valve closes at the correct time whats the difference? I personally like to correct the level by the "contact arm" but everytime i read or come across adjusting the floats it says to bend the "tangs". Personal pref. or some reason behind it you got me. I also dont ever measure distance, i just make sure the needle valve closes before the fuel reaches the overflow... (Mating surface/Mold line are parallel on both floats and float looks level [not too low/not too high] when needle valve is closed)

[Bansh-eman]

i have had bad luck with moving the center needle arm. when i got my 35's the guy i rode with set one of the carbs like that and my damn bike wouldnt run. didnt even dawn on me that could have been it. i set it back to jeff and when he got it he was like wtf did you do to the center arm? then i realized it was the carb that he set that was f'ed. it takes a little more time to move the two floats but you dont have to worry about messing up that center arm and getting it off centered over the valve.

[Snopczynski]

His floats weren't level, so I adjusted that and then adjusted the center needle contact tab. It is pretty much flush with the rest of the arm at 21mm. I measured to the flat spot on top of the float, not the rounded part. Seems to run good. Cleaned all the gunk of his slides and the throtle returns real nice now.