jesse1004 Posted October 21, 2007 Report Posted October 21, 2007 just like the title says. I cut all the trash out of my wiring harness, just like the diagram on this site. Eliminated about everything. I did everything exactly like the diagram, the only difference is that my key is my only on off switch on the bike. Every thing runs and starts great, the only issue is at higher rpms, when I pull in on my cluth I get one hell of a zap( at least I know I should have good spark :geek: ) Tell me what you guys think before I restrip my harness. Quote
XxMeltIcexX Posted October 21, 2007 Report Posted October 21, 2007 Haha! I could see that, funny shit man. But I really don't know, one of the hot wires is grounding to some piece of metal on your bike, i just don't know how it could be travelling to your clutch perch. I couldnt see the bike running if it was an important part of your wiring. Someone will chime in although. Goodluck finding it. :biggrin: Eric Quote
jesse1004 Posted October 22, 2007 Author Report Posted October 22, 2007 i was kinda skeptical about asking this question, I figured it would get more laughs than responses. Definately a first for me too. Quote
blowit Posted October 22, 2007 Report Posted October 22, 2007 i was kinda skeptical about asking this question, I figured it would get more laughs than responses. Definately a first for me too. Depending on what type of zap you are getting will determine where the problem is. Anything after the ignition coil will be boosted to around 5-k volts. Now that has minimal wattage but it would still knock your dick in the dirt. Might be looking for leakage from a coil wire to the steering stem. You will want to run a wire from true ground to your suspect area while running and see if that kills the bike. Sounds like you have a hot chassis or sub chassis now. Possibly the key switch?? You have something touching the bars that is not grounding and it be comes just like an uninsulated wire. Like I say, if you take that to true ground and it kills the bike, you know you have "hot bars". Brandon Quote
BenBB Posted October 22, 2007 Report Posted October 22, 2007 I'm not real sure, but I'd check the ground to chassis at the volt reg and the coil itself first-both should be to bare metal. Also make double sure your black/white from the CDI is taped off, there's current through that baby when she's running. I got zapped the other weekend myself, using that circuit to both a pushbutton kill switch and a Pro Design tether; I had it backwards on the tether and the exposed metal end had some voltage on it even at idle...it'll wake ya up (I just had to reverse the two wires and it's ok now heh). Quote
jesse1004 Posted October 23, 2007 Author Report Posted October 23, 2007 I'm not real sure, but I'd check the ground to chassis at the volt reg and the coil itself first-both should be to bare metal. Also make double sure your black/white from the CDI is taped off, there's current through that baby when she's running. I got zapped the other weekend myself, using that circuit to both a pushbutton kill switch and a Pro Design tether; I had it backwards on the tether and the exposed metal end had some voltage on it even at idle...it'll wake ya up (I just had to reverse the two wires and it's ok now heh). That is exactly what is was!!! My wires were swapped and where I had soldered(spelling?) the tails I had a sharp point that poked though the tape and was touching my steering stem. What a f'ed up deal. Thanks fellas. Quote
BenBB Posted October 23, 2007 Report Posted October 23, 2007 That is exactly what is was!!! My wires were swapped and where I had soldered(spelling?) the tails I had a sharp point that poked though the tape and was touching my steering stem. What a f'ed up deal. Thanks fellas. Right on glad you found it :beer: Quote
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