fox_forma Posted August 3, 2007 Report Posted August 3, 2007 Right now I have a few things going on which I cant seem to figure out. My motor is stock and I am running graydon proline pipes, +4 timing and PODS. Right now I am at a 320 Main, stock pilot,1 turn out on a/f screw, dyno jet needle on 4th clip and have no mid range response at all. I am in AZ, not sure of elevation but prob close to sea level where I am at. Temps are around a 100 right now with some humidity. Low end seems strong and top end seems to pull hard but once I drop RPM's just a little I lose all momentum. I have changed the needle around several times with no difference I could tell when going up or down on the notches. Messing with the jetting the past couple days I noticed a few things, one my throttle cable is kinda jacked up. The carbs seem to be synched still and moving at the same time but I still think I need a new cable. Yesterday I noticed unburned premix right where the PODS come off at. In the past this was normally because of the reeds but they look fine. I'm going to try and switch the reeds out just to be safe and put in a new cable. I do still have the TORS on it but they are all disconnected. Does this issue sound more of a jetting related issue or possible the combination of the reeds and cable as well? I'm normally good with jetting all my bikes but this one is giving me issue's I cant get by in the midrange. I thought it may have been the pick-up coil gap after the +4 timing but that seems to be ok. I am more concerned now with the unburned fuel that is sitting back near the PODS, mainly the right side if I'm sitting on the bike. Oh and WOT chop looks fine. Just this damn midrange is all out of whack. Never had stock carbs on any of my shees I have owned along with this many problems. Quote
dajogejr Posted August 3, 2007 Report Posted August 3, 2007 Give you credit, you've done your homework. Reeds would be the first thing I'd look at....they effect the midrange the most. If you've tried every clip on the needle...it's something else. You know you need to get rid of the TORS alltogether...and that calls for a new cable as well. New plugs. Check (ohm) the coil for giggles. if the air gap was off, it'd be worse performance at WOT. Look for dumb shit too, like frayed/burnt wires, check for a good ground, bad kill switches. Try the TORS removal and cable first...after that, at least the carbs will be easier to work on. Quote
fox_forma Posted August 3, 2007 Author Report Posted August 3, 2007 Yeah like I said I'm pretty familiar with jetting bikes. I do plan on going with the TORS removal kit but dont have the $$$ right this second due to losing my job. I noticed the one TORS kit was about $60 which included the idle screws and theres another one that doesn't include them for about half price. Is it really necessary to use the idle screws? I dont think I ever let my shee just sit there and idle ever, anyway to manipulate the idle screw without actually having one?. I'm going to pull the carbs again and look at the reeds, maybe I overlooked something real small or something. As with the jetting, it is also hard to really get an idea of where I should be since no one has my pipes so I dont know if a 320 is enough fuel or not for them with the PODS on. All electric is good as tested with a MM. Anywhere to get the TORS removal kit cheap? Need to save as much $$$ as I can right now. Quote
dajogejr Posted August 3, 2007 Report Posted August 3, 2007 You SHOULD use the kit, with idle screws. You can adjust the idle with the adjusters on top of the new carb caps in the interim...but, you have to be careful...hate to see you turn the handlebars and have it race up on you. Vito's performance sells just the brass idle screws, but you'll need a tap and drill bit...which would come in the kit. Here's how to do a proper plug chop. If the plugs look good after it's done, don't worry about what number jet is in there. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html Quote
fox_forma Posted August 3, 2007 Author Report Posted August 3, 2007 Yeah I know how the plug chops work but thats at WOT, I'm fine once in the power band and wide open its as soon as I drop a little RPM's the bike just sucks ass. I know banshee's arent meant for lugging around but unless I tach that bitch up to get going it just dog's all through the midrange. Going to try and possibly get the eliminator kit today. Quote
fox_forma Posted August 5, 2007 Author Report Posted August 5, 2007 think I got it under control now, looked like the cable was to tight and had no slack in it. It was a also a little twisted up under the tank. I also drop the needle down and leaned out the mid-range which also proved to give snappier response. Havent been able to really rip on it yet but hopefully thats all it was. The reeds were fine as well as I inspected them too. Quote
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