NEED SOME INPUT ON CUB STUFF!

[smokin350]

whats up guys haven't been on here in a while but i'm going to glamis on the febuary presidents day trip and wanted to change some things on my shee and needed some advice. ok as far as motor my mods are this vito's monoblock, ported, 4mil, straight cut gears, racing clutch, v-force reeds, 38mm mikuni's, clamp-on filters, billet water impeller, hinson clutch basket, and i think thats it, so anyway i know i wanna do a cub motor but i dont know if i should do a 7mm or 4mm. Is there a huge differnce? What kinda of numbers between each of them with a port job? I have 82rwhp and 49.7tq and the thing rips, so will i see a big diffence go cub or no? also any input on others thing i could add.

 

thanks guys, sorry for so many questions just haven't been on in a while and have alot so say lol!!!!!!1

[odaen]

whats up guys haven't been on here in a while but i'm going to glamis on the febuary presidents day trip and wanted to change some things on my shee and needed some advice. ok as far as motor my mods are this vito's monoblock, ported, 4mil, straight cut gears, racing clutch, v-force reeds, 38mm mikuni's, clamp-on filters, billet water impeller, hinson clutch basket, and i think thats it, so anyway i know i wanna do a cub motor but i dont know if i should do a 7mm or 4mm. Is there a huge differnce? What kinda of numbers between each of them with a port job? I have 82rwhp and 49.7tq and the thing rips, so will i see a big diffence go cub or no? also any input on others thing i could add.

 

thanks guys, sorry for so many questions just haven't been on in a while and have alot so say lol!!!!!!1

 

I think it depends on your budget and end goal.

 

The 4mm cub would work great with your setup now. With race gas, you are probably looking in the 100'ish HP range.

 

The 7mm cub would require you to buy a new crank, which are about double the price of a 4mm crank, you'd need to trench your cases and probably be around 110'ish HP on race gas. For identical cost pretty much, you could go 10mm and probably be around 115'ish for HP.

 

It's hard, well it was hard for me anyway, to distinguish what was enough horsepower for my needs, until I went too far. I went from a 76HP 4mm dune port that was probably optimal for my riding style, and setup to a 4mm cub that dyno'd a little over 100HP. It put a huge grin on my face every time I rode it, but it was very very impractical for anything other than riding in a straight line on a flat surface. I was constantly running back to camp to fill my bike up, while my buddies on their 450's rode for hours and hours on a single tank.

 

Anyway, good luck, and whatever you decide, keep us posted. It's nice to see bikes progress on here.

[smokin350]

thanks for the input odaen, what head due most people perfer with the cub. Should i due the lock out clutch and what about a ignition is it a must, also do u think i can stick with the 38mm carbs?

[dajogejr]

I agree with odean.

 

Go 4 or 10mm...7 is a waste...

 

A good 4 mil on gas is a great motor, but...as said, it's great for straight line and WOT riding all the time. 38's will be fine.

Some of the top builders in the country swear by the OEM ignition.

 

Just get a timing plate so you can advance the timing, keep the compression in check...and you'll have a rippen bike.

 

And I think once you go cub, any size or stroke, lockup clutch and override are a good idea.

[odaen]

thanks for the input odaen, what head due most people perfer with the cub. Should i due the lock out clutch and what about a ignition is it a must, also do u think i can stick with the 38mm carbs?

 

I think for the money, you can't compete with a NOSS head. Stock ignition is fine, but do get the adjustable timing plate, and I'd recommend getting the NGK boots for your plug wires.

As for the clutch, if I were gonna put a 4mm cub together for duning again, I'd probably opt to just use a beefier clutch than run a lockup again. You lose an inch or so on your right peg, and your rear brake pedal needs to be adjusted down and out of the way. I dunno, I like riding tight in and not having to articulate my foot 90 degrees to get my rear brake to start grabbing. But that's just me. They do serve a good purpose and look tight as shit if you are into the bling factor.

39PWK's seem to be the carb of choice with the cub motors, but I'm sure your 38 mikuni's would certainly fit the bill.

 

Good luck, man. I remember being in your position looking forward to my next mod on my bike.

[smokin350]

thanks for the replies! what head do you recommend running with the cubs?

[odaen]

thanks for the replies! what head do you recommend running with the cubs?

 

Get a NOSS head. He's a sponsor on hq too and I think gives you a price break if you mention it. Also, be sure whatever route you go to get the pancake bearing for your clutch.