another toomey/boyesen reed jetting question

[awesomeame]

i searched, couldn't find anything that related to my situation...current setup

 

 

 

200 main

25 pilot

3rd groove

2 turns on airscrew

 

~1000 above sea level

68*F-85*F normal riding

 

when the engine was stock, the above was rich, plugs wet/black.

 

 

now i've installed boyesen dual stage power reeds, toomey t5s and the engine has been rebuilt. boyesen recommends turning in the airscrew 1/4-1/2 turn.

 

will the above setup still work with the new mods, or ???? what does everyone recommend??? thanks

 

--matt

[RIPRuck]

I'm at sea level and when I ran my airbox with my T5's and Vf3's I was using 270's for mains and 25 pilots.

[awesomeame]

guess i'm buying some 270s unless someone suggests something else? be a good place to start as any i guess, thanks!! my 200s sound way low.

 

--matt

[fastrthnu]

What kind of filter setup are you going to use? Boyesen need a little richer on the pilot and a little leaner on the main over stock. Need to know how much air your going to move through the filters though.

[awesomeame]

GEEZ I NEED SOME HELP

 

 

i'm running the stock airbox with stock filter.

 

here's what i did today:

 

270 main

25 pilot

3rd groove

1.5 turns on airscrew

 

~1000 above sea level

85*F

 

it all sounded good until i put a load on the bike and went for a ride.

 

i rode at 1/2 throttle in 1st gear for about 15 seconds. plugs were copper colored, dry. then i did the same thing, but ran about 20-30 seconds, and the engine just wouldn't slow down. i turned the ignition off and the engine was still humming away at high rpm. pulled the choke and it shut down. WTF!!!!

 

also did a couple full throttle 1st gear runs. it would run at full throttle about 5 seconds, then fall flat, no power, no nothing, then after a couple seconds the power would be back. the engine also continued to rev at high rpm with the ignition off, until i pulled the choke. WTF.

 

so what the hell is going on here! this thing had more power before i added these pipes lol. the throttles aren't sticking, and the ignition system is working properly, so this is definitely a fuel problem.

 

where do i go from here??

 

--matt

[dajogejr]

While your jetting may not be spot on, it is NOT causing your detonation problems.

You have a few things to look for. Air leak, cable not releasing the slide, stuck slide (I know you said it's not...check anyways...)

If anything, your main might be a hair rich for running T5s, stock air filter and airbox with a lid.

 

By NO means will it cause your bike to run away on you...you are overlooking something simple...and I'd bet it's something sticking...

[csrmel]

sounds kinda ddngerous. do you have tors hooked up? i dont know what year youre bike is.....

[awesomeame]

rebuilt the carbs again today. before i had fuel coming out of the overflows after each run, so i adjusted the floats from 23mm to 20.5mm (specs say 21mm +/- 1mm) there is still some fuel in the overflow tubes all the time, but the level doesn't seem to change, and both carbs are the same, but it's always there...is this normal????

 

i ran it, bottom end was a bit better (float adjustment?) or at least it seemed better, as for the top end there was nothing. sputtered like mad between mid & top, then when you get to top, nothin. like hitting a wall. also adjusting the airmixture screw didn't seem to do anything at all??

 

i checked the boots for leaks, slides are moving fine, nothing appears to be sticking.

 

i'm wondering if the 270 is just wayy too big, and when i go WOT i'm just flooding the engine ? it's definitely running a bit rich on the mid-range-plugs were a bit wet/black.

 

((shrugs))

 

--matt

 

p.s. it's a 2001, as per sig

Edited July 22, 2007 by awesomeame

[dajogejr]

Are you using fresh plugs? Drop a 240 in there just for the hell of it...if it doesn't make any or much difference...as said, look elseswhere.

 

Dumb question...but here we go. Did you put the carb slides in the correct carb (the half moon shaped cutaway needs to point towards the back of the carb, airbox side)???

 

Also...did you reconnect the choke tube between the two carbs?

[awesomeame]

yeh i'll drop the 240s in tomorrow..need to go buy them first otherwise i'd be doing it now.

 

as for the slides, i can see the syncing marks in the windows, so they must be oriented correctly? i'll double check that. choke tube is connected, and new plugs at the beginning of this adventure.

 

what do you think about the float issue? since i'll be opening it up again i could adjust them if needed

 

thanks

 

--matt

Edited July 22, 2007 by awesomeame

[csrmel]

before you fuck with it anymore take the airbox lid off and run it for 1 single pass and see what happens.

[awesomeame]

heyhey!! so here's today's update.

 

i noticed there was some pitting (from arcing) on the tops of the spark plugs, from the caps not being totally tight on the plug. i pulled the caps off, the one had 600 ohms resistance, the other had 5 ohms resistance. so i replaced both caps with 0 ohm caps, and gapped new plugs to .030. is 0 ohm ok with this gap?

 

i then ran it, it was a lot smoother, but still ran like crap.

 

then i removed the airbox as was suggested, and holy crap does it ever run well now!!! so the 270 is too rich with the airlid on. i'm at work right now, will take it out to check plugs tonight and then post up.

 

is it OK to run with the airlid off the airbox? is there a lot of gain-is it worth it to keep the airlid off? i usually ride in some mud and sand, call me paranoid i don't want that stuff in my engine lol

 

 

--matt

Edited July 23, 2007 by awesomeame

[BansheeDan]

i run a k&n filter with a pro flow set up on my bike with no lid and it works great.

just make sure to run an outerwears cover over the filter and you will be fine.

 

 

Dan

[csrmel]

good im glad i cought that before you messed with it more.

go out and buy a 2 inch hole saw. drill a bunch of 2 inch holes in the lid to increase airflow. make sure not to drill by the 4 clips, or by the 2 area of the lid which hold the filter in place.

 

keep those 270's in. recheck youre ignition. you might be good to go.

 

the reason i said to only run it without the lid for 1 pass is because of youre air filter. that filter is held in place by the lid. so if you run around with no lid for any significant time span the filter is liable to pop out or atleast get knocked loose.

 

when i first put t5's on my banshee i kept the stock airbox lid and snorkel. what a mistake. its like running with the choke on the 2nd click. you can never reach the power band. the engine wont rev, even in neutral! you can run down the street in first gear at wide open throttle and you wont get over 5000 rpm's.

removing the snorkel helps, but the lid is still a very big restriction. i couldnt get my bike to rev with out 4 stroking unless i drilled some holes in the lid. without lid holes, it just ran like the choke was on. 9this was with 280's).

 

once you pull the lid, boy its a huge gain aint it!

 

dont run it anymore without the lid on. just get some holes in it and enjoy. when you want to improve further, the stock airfilter is very restrictive as well. my stock filter was collapsing in on its self from suction even after i put holes in my lid. the white plastic frame was deforming from the suction pull on the foam element.

 

youre next upgrade might be a pro design filter adapter, or some pods if you want to give up mud and water riding.

Edited July 24, 2007 by csrmel

[awesomeame]

hey guys! thanks for the replies. the saga here is continuing. i figured since i was putting all this effort into rejetting, now is a good time to get a k&n as was mentioned. so right now i've got 2 k&n's, one on each carb. the stock airbox is sitting on the shelf. so of course now everything is changing again, it was back to square one. engine running away, coughing bad. the top end seemed ok, but bottom end was crap. i went to the 2nd groove (leaner) but it just got worse. went to the 4th groove and the bike just came alive. seems great on the mid & top.

 

here's where i'm at

 

270 main

25 pilot

4th groove

1.0 turns on airscrew

 

~1000 above sea level

80*F ambient

 

the bottom end is another story. it idles high 2500-ish rpm. 1.0 turns on the airscrew seems to be the best, but it's not right. also can't say it's got much power in the stop/idle to mid range. should i try a larger pilot jet? what would be the next size up from 25?

 

my plan is to get a different pilot and try that tomorrow, also maybe get a 280 main and see how that goes.

 

right now the plugs are a dark color, but dry...no wetness whatsoever.

 

any input appreciated as always, thanks!

 

--matt

Edited July 24, 2007 by awesomeame