too_fazt Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 just as it says i have no spark. details are. when i kick it it will turn on the lights. i changed the cdi, still no spark i used a electric current tester and it didnt seem to get a reading from the wire harness. or out of the wires comming out of the stator. i also change the plugs and no go. let e know what i could be missing, what might need to be changed, and or what i can do to find out what the problem is exactly. thanks Quote
bbruischart Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 just as it says i have no spark. details are. when i kick it it will turn on the lights. i changed the cdi, still no spark i used a electric current tester and it didnt seem to get a reading from the wire harness. or out of the wires comming out of the stator. i also change the plugs and no go. let e know what i could be missing, what might need to be changed, and or what i can do to find out what the problem is exactly. thanks unplug the tors module under the gas tank. small black box on left side. Quote
TurboBanshee420 Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 I had some no spark issues a while back. I cooked 2 pickup coils...trigger coil (whatever you may call it). I've also had the ignition side of my stator shit out on me too. I have a knack for burning up electronics! just incase people don't realize... your stators are 3 phase. 2 of those (phases) go to the lights. and the 4 other poles (1 phase) with small gauge wire go to your CDI. The small guage wire makes more voltage, less current. Big gauge wire makes more current(amps), and less voltage. google "3 phase basics" and learn something! Quote
TurboBanshee420 Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 (edited) I forgot to add some important info on how to check it... pull apart the plug coming out of the stator. use a digital ohm meter to check the resistance between the 2 white wires with green and red stripes. that is the wires for your trigger. if it's 0 then it's junk. you can do the same for the red and green wires with the white stripes. if nothing then stator is burned up and shorted...junk If both of those have any resistance at all then they are good and you should look into your grounds. do this and repost with numbers. the clymer has specific resistance tolerances for each. I don't remember them off hand one more thing... check to see if your wires pulled off the terminals on your ignition coil. They are just a couple blade style term. and they suck! I had to put tape around mine to keep them from wiggling off the coil. also make sure the ign. coil has a nice clean ground where the bolts go through. take some sand paper and clean up the frame and mounting area on the coil. use di-electric grease on that area to keep it from rusting up again. Edited July 16, 2007 by TurboBanshee420 Quote
blowit Posted July 17, 2007 Report Posted July 17, 2007 I forgot to add some important info on how to check it... pull apart the plug coming out of the stator. use a digital ohm meter to check the resistance between the 2 white wires with green and red stripes. that is the wires for your trigger. if it's 0 then it's junk. you can do the same for the red and green wires with the white stripes. if nothing then stator is burned up and shorted...junk If both of those have any resistance at all then they are good and you should look into your grounds. do this and repost with numbers. the clymer has specific resistance tolerances for each. I don't remember them off hand one more thing... check to see if your wires pulled off the terminals on your ignition coil. They are just a couple blade style term. and they suck! I had to put tape around mine to keep them from wiggling off the coil. also make sure the ign. coil has a nice clean ground where the bolts go through. take some sand paper and clean up the frame and mounting area on the coil. use di-electric grease on that area to keep it from rusting up again. Um, your are a little off on your basics of three phase power there. I would say, rather than writing a novel here, you might do a little research on that subject because the number of wires or poles is irrelevant to phasing. The banshee uses single phase power output but Honda has it right with some of their three phase stators. Three phase is my preference. We actually made a test generator utilizing a VFD to test harmonics in constant loss ignitions. I would say, they are irratic, but single phase it is. Brandon Quote
jmd0346 Posted July 17, 2007 Report Posted July 17, 2007 Um, your are a little off on your basics of three phase power there. I would say, rather than writing a novel here, you might do a little research on that subject because the number of wires or poles is irrelevant to phasing. The banshee uses single phase power output but Honda has it right with some of their three phase stators. Three phase is my preference. We actually made a test generator utilizing a VFD to test harmonics in constant loss ignitions. I would say, they are irratic, but single phase it is. Brandon What brand stator? Quote
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