baddsheee Posted June 29, 2007 Report Posted June 29, 2007 Had my crank go out, I also need some pistons. Haven't made up my mind if staying stock or a 4 mil :thumbsup: . Can I run a 4 mil with a stock milled head? I've heard you have to run a spacer plate or cut your domes on a cool head which I don't have. Don't want a cool head at this moment. What else am I going to need to make a 4 mil work? :shrug: Quote
fastbanshee8 Posted June 29, 2007 Report Posted June 29, 2007 Had my crank go out, I also need some pistons. Haven't made up my mind if staying stock or a 4 mil :thumbsup: . Can I run a 4 mil with a stock milled head? I've heard you have to run a spacer plate or cut your domes on a cool head which I don't have. Don't want a cool head at this moment. What else am I going to need to make a 4 mil work? :shrug: If you have stock cylinders, you will have to have the head cut for a 4mil, regardless of the type of head, unless you want to run a spacer plate. To make the 4mil work good, you will need porting, bigger carbs, pipes, maybe a longer swinger. It's going to take some money, to make the 4mil work good. :biggrin: Quote
baddsheee Posted June 29, 2007 Author Report Posted June 29, 2007 If you have stock cylinders, you will have to have the head cut for a 4mil, regardless of the type of head, unless you want to run a spacer plate. To make the 4mil work good, you will need porting, bigger carbs, pipes, maybe a longer swinger. It's going to take some money, to make the 4mil work good. :biggrin: I got a dune port, 34pj, shearers, VF3's. Where do they cut the head, around the dome area? I was thinking about the swinger already. Quote
fastbanshee8 Posted June 29, 2007 Report Posted June 29, 2007 (edited) I forgot, that you will probably need a real good clutch also. The head is cut in the dome area, because the piston will actually be 2mm above the top of your cylinder, at TDC. With the parts you have already, and the swinger you are thinking about, you should be in good shape, other than crank, pistons, porting, and head work. Edited June 29, 2007 by fastbanshee8 Quote
bansheefreak Posted June 29, 2007 Report Posted June 29, 2007 just call jim up for a 4mm stroker crank,plate,pistons, noss head setup for your stroker and you be set with your carbs and pipes.. and get a swinger too.. Quote
dajogejr Posted June 29, 2007 Report Posted June 29, 2007 If your clutch is still in pretty good working order, get 3HD springs, 3 stockers and alternate them. You'll be fine. As said, you either run a 2 mil spacer plate under the cylinders, or cut the head to run the pistons up into them. Also...if you get a long rod crank, (115mm rods vs. 110mm stock rods) you'll need 795 series pistons. They are pistons made by wiseco for those that run OEM cylinders with a long rod crank, the wrist pin is moved up towards the crown of the piston... It's wise to get a long rod crank if you're going to get a stroker, it's more reliable....it puts less stress on the piston/cylinder by lessening the angle of the rod from one end of the stroke to the other. Quote
dante Posted June 29, 2007 Report Posted June 29, 2007 Dont do like me and over look new gaskets and seals, get a good crank berring and c-clip. I recommend a other than stock head cut. Spacer plate is fine but its just another place to create an air leak. I would change the water pump also while its down. Quote
baddsheee Posted June 29, 2007 Author Report Posted June 29, 2007 (edited) It's wise to get a long rod crank if you're going to get a stroker, it's more reliable....it puts less stress on the piston/cylinder by lessening the angle of the rod from one end of the stroke to the other. Hearing that it's more reliable I like. Looks like I might end up going to a 4 mil. Not enough funds right now for the cool head. Looks like I might get some head work done. and go with the 795 wisecos. Gonna add the impeller to the list also, and def the HD springs. for all the feedback Edited June 29, 2007 by baddsheee Quote
XxMeltIcexX Posted June 29, 2007 Report Posted June 29, 2007 Hearing that it's more reliable I like. Looks like I might end up going to a 4 mil. Not enough funds right now for the cool head. Looks like I might get some head work done. and go with the 795 wisecos. Gonna add the impeller to the list also, and def the HD springs. for all the feedback with that set up your spendin some money already, do it right the first time - no point in getting a stock head milled for atleast 50 bucks or more when you can get a noss head shipped to your door for like 230-240 (dont remember), and get the domes you want. Youll get it sooner or later right? :biggrin: Eric Quote
dajogejr Posted June 29, 2007 Report Posted June 29, 2007 You can always throw a head on later, for the cost of parts, plus antifreeze/coolant. Stocker will be fine... Quote
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