best bang for your buck...

[nicktoney]

alright, im stuck in the middle here... its either gonna be a 4mil stroker crank or a mx port...

 

i know the stroker is a bit more expensive but which will have more of a hit.. not the money factor, just which would you pick right here? if i get the stroker, ill run 795 pistons, and a spacer plate to keep the port timings right... if i get the mx port, ill get the stroker next year.... which gives the biggest power gain? both will give low end power, just which has most hit? im drawn between the two.. this or that... :shoothead: help

[Hilarious]

If money isnt a factor here, do both. The 4mill would complement the port job.

They would be awesome together. Best bet would be to do it up the first time.

Get the port job cut for the 4 mill long rod crank and go with some cut domes

and a noss head. :thumbsup:

:beer:

[ellison445]

You speak as if you ran this setup before

 

If money isnt a factor here, do both. The 4mill would complement the port job.

They would be awesome together. Best bet would be to do it up the first time.

Get the port job cut for the 4 mill long rod crank and go with some cut domes

and a noss head. :thumbsup:

:beer:

[nicktoney]

hmm.... im thinking of just doing a 4mil... then saving more for the 4mil port job.... taking jugs off is simple.... so it wont be a big deal down the road would it? putting in a stroker crank is more into things... when i split the case, do i have to do like in bigreds write up? do i need to take the clutches off piece by piece and such?

[ellison445]

I would do the port jobs first......... Less money, more bang!

[nicktoney]

i just decided. sent my jugs and flywheel off to jeff..... for a mxport for a 4mil... and im selling stuff and such and getting the crank by the end of the month...

 

thanks for the opinions... this bitch should rip!

[csrmel]

to do a 4 mill you have to get it ported anyways. so you might as well do both.

[nicktoney]

to do a 4 mill you have to get it ported anyways. so you might as well do both.

 

 

 

thanks for the info.... i am doing that such thing actually....

 

pulling the motor off the frame in 1 minute!

[Hilarious]

You speak as if you ran this setup before

Yessir, um....shhhhhh..dont tell anyone. lol

Razr2's hook like a mofo just like you said too. :woot:

 

hmm.... im thinking of just doing a 4mil... then saving more for the 4mil port job.... taking jugs off is simple.... so it wont be a big deal down the road would it? putting in a stroker crank is more into things... when i split the case, do i have to do like in bigreds write up? do i need to take the clutches off piece by piece and such?

 

bigred's write up is awesome. Taking the engine apart to pull the crank and putting it back

together isnt as hard as you think. Just dont let any of your tools walk off on ya while you

working on it. Lol. Only problem I had doin mine was having a clutch spring and socket wrench

walking off on me due to a 2 and 7 year old. lol

WHen you get your ported cylinders and crank, i suggest you get jeff to hook you up with one

of his clutch packs too. :thumbsup:

[nicktoney]

whats the actual difference between a 4mil stroker and a 4mil long rod? any advantage?

[lowriderb]

your pretty much reffering to the same crank.. the 4mm stroke is basically where the pins the lower part of the rods are moved out from center 2mm's (2 up and 2 down= 4mm total stroke added).. the longer rods are 115mm rods, short rods would be stock 110mm's..

 

the most common crank to get would be a 4mm long rod..

 

you will get a little longer life out of the long rod motor..

 

as well if you already run the long rod if you were to swap to a cub later on it would be just a cylinder swap..

 

 

 

 

bigred's write up is awesome.

 

 

dont, do NOT, put an extention through the connecting rods to get the nut on either side loose from the crank..

 

i would highly suggest getting a clymers manual to look through for at least to have so you can check and reset specs in and on your motor...