My Lockup Clutch Question

[Justintoxicated]

I was at the SSSS today and was offered a good deal on a lockup clutch $300 frosties. It includes a polished billet case extention, polished side case, and a smaller transparent window on the side than most others that I see and the Direct Drie lockup itself. The billet case extention has a notch in it to clear the footpegs. It is also beveled (angled inwards towards the clear piece which may add clearance for the brake lever).

 

I hope it will clear some IMS footpegs I may pickup there as well.

 

I'm not sure if I should go lockup or not as I mostly Dune ride and I have heard that some clutch slippage can be a good thing for this type of riding. Any Ideas? I'm also confused as to wether the clutch will be easier to pull or harder if i go back to stock springs and use the lockup. Some people seem to say it is harder to pull the clutch in when it is engauged with a lockup?

 

Also I heard that I need a bearing kit? Is this really necessary? Why?

 

Finaly I do plan on getting a 4 mil cub in the future, but probably not for another year, the 12-port with new pipes should tide me over untill then. In the meantime I still have the stock factory clutch, plates, everything except for HD springs....

 

Just wondering if I would be better off with a 10 plate setup for about $250 more. or if I should go ahead and get the lockup tomarrow.

Edited September 17, 2006 by Justintoxicated

[MFIC]

I would get it, i love mine.. You can take weights off the lockup up to suit your style of riding. You can also run softer springs because the lockup will push on the preasure plate. Mine is easy to pull on the cultch. The bearing is a pancake bearing its about the size of a quarter and cheap, keeps the rod and ball from welding to the adjuster.

[Justintoxicated]

What about having a lockup makes the ball and rod weld faster than a normal setup (more pressure on the plate while you pull in the cluch?)? I mean your not supposed to hold the cluch in anyways? Or is this something that would happen when trying to rev up for a launch?

[Hilarious]

What about having a lockup makes the ball and rod weld faster than a normal setup (more pressure on the plate while you pull in the cluch?)? I mean your not supposed to hold the cluch in anyways? Or is this something that would happen when trying to rev up for a launch?

 

I would think that the pushrod and ball would weld themselves together having either

clutch setup. I've heard of this happening with the stock clutch.

The pancake bearing mod isnt but like 50 bucks. I went all out when I did my clutch and

installed the lockup unit. I also went with a billet clutch basket.

The pull is easy and the lockup unit works well.

:beer:

[Big Blue]

The lockup is worth it, Like what was stated above you can remove weight to get it setup to where you want. The pandcake bearing is worth putting in no matter what some places sell it for about 30 bucks.

[[email protected]]

Go with a lockup man , i love it on my bike...... I think its great for trails aswell , it really gets the power to the ground...... The clutch itself is not as easy to pull as a stock clutch imo. i have all hd springs , and a billet basket with it . I still would honestly put these clutch's on any and all banshee's ....... Great clutch , and does what it should do ! Tranfers the power to the back wheels and does it HARD ! ....... You will be amazed at what she does..... Try holding the clutch in and revving up , dump the clutch really hard and look back , amazing at the roosting abilities this clutch offers.

[DUB]

get it! i love mine! one of the best mods ive ever done.

[tomtunas]

I love my lock out also but I also added the magrua hydraulic clutch. I run a 421cub +4 stroker very nice setup but the hyd clutch was a bit pricey.

[Justintoxicated]

Alright I got it, Thanks everyone!