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Posted

1. 8.59? can you list the items and pricing involved with them? When I went to build one, I went to HOme Depot, Lowe's, Ace, Aco and a hospital supply store (air pump ball) and it cost me 30 or 40 bucks...

 

I can't buy 4 rubber plugs, a low pressure gauge and an air pump for that cheap....

Sounds dumb....but, you didn't use a gauge with a check ball in it, did you? If so...the test is not valid.

To make sure there's no check ball, with the engine pressurized, remove a spark plug. If it fizzles down, the test is good. If it stays at the PSI...you need to remove the check ball...

 

2. Start checking the stator and coil. A clymers manual will give you ohm (resistance) specs.

 

David Keith, a member here...just sent all his electrical to Ricky Stator. They will test it free...and even put it on a known running good banshee if they pass the bench test...

 

That water came from somewhere.... It can't be condensation because it would be in both pipes...

 

Sucked in from a trail ride, bad coolant seal???

 

It was raining slightly last time I took it for a rip,and I did hit a few puddles, maybe that has something to do with the water in the pipe.

As for the leakdown tester.... I used (2) 1 inch pvc caps from home depot to plug the intake boots.(51 cents each) The I got two rubber 1 3/8 colapsable pipe plugs for the exhaust ports. ($3.60 each) I got a tire stem and valve from a local tire shop for free. I drilled a half in hole in one of the pvc caps and shoved the tire stem into it. I then put 7 lbs of air in it with my small compresor. I checked it with my low pressure tire guage.

Guess I gota start to test the electrical system now

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Posted

Blown head gasket or base gasket could let a little water in the cylinder, just enough to cause that problem. The water will bead up on the end of the plug, though, and you haven't mentioned that. If that's not the problem, I'd borrow another carb and try it. I worked on one that we couldn't get a cylinder to run. We cleaned the carbs w/no change. I finally gave him one of my spares and it fired right up. There is no chance your problem is electrical, though.

Posted

Blown head gasket or base gasket could let a little water in the cylinder, just enough to cause that problem. The water will bead up on the end of the plug, though, and you haven't mentioned that. If that's not the problem, I'd borrow another carb and try it. I worked on one that we couldn't get a cylinder to run. We cleaned the carbs w/no change. I finally gave him one of my spares and it fired right up. There is no chance your problem is electrical, though.

good call. water is beading up on the end of the spark plug. and come to think of it I have smelled a "sweet" smell on last run. I figured it was coolant that overspilled on the pipes when I filled it up. Damm , looks like I will be swapping the gaskets this weekend. Well i guess it is a small price to pay and an easy fix to something that could have been a major repair.Thanks for all the help and info guys! :biggrin:

Posted

good call. water is beading up on the end of the spark plug. and come to think of it I have smelled a "sweet" smell on last run. I figured it was coolant that overspilled on the pipes when I filled it up. Damm , looks like I will be swapping the gaskets this weekend. Well i guess it is a small price to pay and an easy fix to something that could have been a major repair.Thanks for all the help and info guys! :biggrin:

 

 

I would like to ad, on the motor that I've seen w/this problem. It persisted for a little while even after we ringed it and replaced the gaskets. We tried to blow all of the water out of the case as best we could, but some moisture remained. We finally got it cleaned out, just stayed on the gas until it cleared up. Good luck!!

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