Plug Color

[Nitmare67]

This is the first time ive rode my bike since having the port job done. I changed my pilot from a 25 to a 27.5 because with a 25 the bike wouldnt idle. Mains are now 340s. These plugs were new and have about 10-15 min of riding on them now.

 

[Banchetta]

Nice pics, you need to do a wot run, but the one thing that I'd like to show you is how to examine the pic...once your plugs get some more color and you do a wot run, your whole circle will become black and the ground strap (finger) will become a chocalate brown...but where the important part is where the finger meets the circle.....On your second picture, you'll notice that the bottom of the finger is black and as it gets to the bend it lightens up..this is very good and what you want...the tip should be chocalate brown and the bend should be turning to black as it reaches the bottom....Understand?....although this pic wasn't from a wot run right? if not, then this plug can look drastically different from normal riding to wot runs...

[Nitmare67]

This was with several wide open throttle runs on it but also running around the track and jumping etc, etc. Will I need to run new plugs in it when I do my wide open throttle runs or just warm it up then hammer it with these and shut it off? I tell you what this damn thing she hauls ass already though! Night and day different with the porting. This is by far the best mod I've done.

[Banchetta]

You can use the same plugs, you do have to shut it down immediately after a wot run though...just cruising back to the vehicle will alter the plugs...once you let off, the exhaust pipes cool down as well as cylinder temps, then the plugs will darken up since your plugs act as temp guages...the hotter they get the lighter they will get..

[Nitmare67]

Ok well im learning now haha. I'll go out tomorrow and do some runs and pull the plugs to see what she looks like. I get the feeling its going to be a bit lean for some reason. Im at sea level and ive heard of guys on here it the same alltitude as me with 340 mains on a stock port. I have a pair of 360 mains still that I can try though. Thanks alot.

[2003LimitedBanshee]

Just out of curiousity what kind of pipes are you running. Also what temperature are you at right now, if I read correctly you are at sea level. Also, have you done any modifications to the airbox, or removed it? The reason I ask is because I run 340's with my Toomey's when I ride at the dunes, at approx. 60-65 degrees. But I have removed the airbox entirely, which was about 4 jet sizes in itself if I recall right. As Banchetta mentioned to do the WOT check correctly you should run full throttle for about 6-10 seconds, then pull the clutch and hit the kill immediately. However, I have noticed that I can be riding the dunes, and after riding the short sand road (150 yds at most) at half throttle at best, I will still have a fairly representative color, but it really should be checked at WOT. Good luck, let us know what you find.

[Nitmare67]

I am running Toomey T5 pipes. My cranking compression is 130lbs. Stock carbs with 27.5 Pilots and 340 mains. The needles that came with the Toomey Pipe kit on the 4th groove down from the blunt in. A clean uni 2 stage foam air filter with NO air box lid. Thats why I still think I made need to move up to a 360 main or so. The bike runs great and has gobs more power after the port job but me and a friend of mine were looking at the plugs again and they seem a bit light to me. I dont have 350 jets on hand so im just going to toss in the 360s and see what it looks like. Worse thing is it either bogs or fouls. I would rather be a bit rich though than lean right? On a side note - My bike seems very noticabley louder and has a much meaner tone after the port job. I like this HAHA

[MILO]

some little points that i didn't see yet... get the bike warmed up good on old plugs, then drop in the new ones, make one run to the WOT and hold for a few seconds, then shut her down, either coast her home or put the old plugs back in and ride home. the plug chop is a one shot deal on the plugs, but i'd rather blow a few bucks on a set of new plugs than blow my top end. good luck.

[Ducman]

Its hard to say for sure which jetting circuit caused the color on the porcelin since your 15 minutes of riding had all kinds of varried throttle position, however, that seems pretty dark to me for just 15 minutes of riding. I think your jetting is pretty rich on either the needle or the main. Usually after 15 minutes or varried riding I expect to see a tan color, not real dark like yours look. You need to pull the plug after a WOT to verify your mains which is what is important though. Banchetta has good tips on exactly where to read the color, once the porcelin turns black it typically stays that way so dont pay too much attention to that when doing a WOT plug read. I just thought I'd mention that the needle or main must be pretty rich though for it to turn that dark that fast.

[2003LimitedBanshee]

Its hard to say for sure which jetting circuit caused the color on the porcelin since your 15 minutes of riding had all kinds of varried throttle position, however, that seems pretty dark to me for just 15 minutes of riding.  I think your jetting is pretty rich on either the needle or the main.  Usually after 15 minutes or varried riding I expect to see a tan color, not real dark like yours look.  You need to pull the plug after a WOT to verify your mains which is what is important though.  Banchetta has good tips on exactly where to read the color, once the porcelin turns black it typically stays that way so dont pay too much attention to that when doing a WOT plug read.  I just thought I'd mention that the needle or main must be pretty rich though for it to turn that dark that fast.

452715[/snapback]

 

I don't know, but I'm guessing that he pulled full throttle several times throughout this ride, but those plugs were ridden at lower throttle positions before shutting down. Although I do have to agree, it seems a bit dark given short ride time. But based on where I have my stock port bike jetted right now, I can't imagine that he'd be too rich, but every bike is different so.... As suggested above warm it up, varying the throttle during, then I usually blast through all six, and hold it pinned for 6-10 seconds, pull clutch, hit kill. Let us know how they look after that.

[Nitmare67]

Im going to take it out today and see how it looks. If im still not certain I may just toss in the 360 mains and see if it bogs. I have 4 new plugs though so I need to probley run a plug chop on 1 with the 340s and see how it looks. I tried doing the plug chop before and it seems like I couldnt get low enough on the porclen to see what the plug looked like. I'll try it again today though. Just put the toomey hush kit and silencer on my bike though so the jetting may have changing a little since last time out. For some reason I really want to believe though that this bike can take bigger than a 340 main though because I see guys on here running that in unported bikes at the same altitude as me. One thing I wonder now is if my reeds are really holding me back or not. Im running the dual stage boyseen power reeds and I would like to change to the V Force reeds. Im hoping this new port job is enough to put my faster than my buddies stock yfz450. Before with the toomey pipes and a fresh topend. 280s mains and no lid our bikes were basically the same exact speed but he would get me on the start on pavement. Once up to speed he stayed 2 -3 bikes in front of me and we ran even basically the whole way. I want to make some mods to my trani though. On all my other honda and suzuki bikes I could change gears easily without clutching but my banshee doesnt really want to go for that. Makes it sort of a bitch always having to clutch. What can be done to fix this problem. Also im running 130-135lbs compression. Is there a noticable increase going to a Noss machine cool head with 21 cc domes. The chart says it should put me at about 155lbs or so. Maybe that with a timing advance would make a pretty noticable difference on my comination? JUST WANT TO BEAT THE 450F. Those damned things are quick just stock. Damn I hate that.

Edited December 29, 2005 by Nitmare67

[Banchetta]

Im going to take it out today and see how it looks. If im still not certain I may just toss in the 360 mains and see if it bogs. I have 4 new plugs though so I need to probley run a plug chop on 1 with the 340s and see how it looks. I tried doing the plug chop before and it seems like I couldnt get low enough on the porclen to see what the plug looked like. I'll try it again today though. Just put the toomey hush kit and silencer on my bike though so the jetting may have changing a little since last time out. For some reason I really want to believe though that this bike can take bigger than a 340 main though because I see guys on here running that in unported bikes at the same altitude as me. One thing I wonder now is if my reeds are really holding me back or not. Im running the dual stage boyseen power reeds and I would like to change to the V Force reeds.  Im hoping this new port job is enough to put my faster than my buddies stock yfz450. Before with the toomey pipes and a fresh topend. 280s mains and no lid our bikes were basically the same exact speed but he would get me on the start on pavement. Once up to speed he stayed 2 -3 bikes in front of me and we ran even basically the whole way. I want to make some mods to my trani though. On all my other honda and suzuki bikes I could change gears easily without clutching but my banshee doesnt really want to go for that. Makes it sort of a bitch always having to clutch. What can be done to fix this problem. Also im running 130-135lbs compression. Is there a noticable increase going to a Noss machine cool head with 21 cc domes. The chart says it should put me at about 155lbs or so. Maybe that with a timing advance would make a pretty noticable difference on my comination? JUST WANT TO BEAT THE 450F. Those damned things are quick just stock. Damn I hate that.

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For more power, the noss head w/155psi will make a huge noticeable difference. Definately get the +4 timing key or adjustable plate, that'll give you another 2hp across the whole curve...as for the shifting, you can get the shift star, cost $35, it'll help the gears mesh a little better..the 450's are quick on take off, but your shee w/ the right jetting should stay on the take off and pull away after 4th gear..

[2003LimitedBanshee]

Speed shift... that is the key for me. Especially now that you have done some mods you need to be halfway adept at shifting to pull this off safely, but it's not magic. In case you don't know, speed shifting is where you essentially pull the clutch (real fast) and shift, while never lifting your thumb off the throttle. Once you get good, you can shift lightning fast. You definitely should look at the timing advance, although pretty much everyone will tell you to go with a plate, as opposed to the key. Look at the Ricky Stator plate; only $35. I like the Boyesen PowerReeds, seemed to make a minor difference over stock, but V-Force (3's are my choice, but many still run and love 2's) is the way to go.

[Nitmare67]

Funny you would mention the speed shifting thats how I used to drag race my 67 mustang when I had the 4 speed in it except in cars we call it power shifting. Not sure how that will work out on my banshee on pavement but im going to try it out haha. Guess if im far enough forward we'll find out:) Im planning on upgrading to 28mm or 30mm pwk carbs and V Force reeds in the next month or so. Then i get to jet those all over again but they seem easier to jet and I'll have practice then too! Hope its a improvement over the stock carburetors but I guess i'll never know till I try it out. Thanks for the tips.

[Banchetta]

Funny you would mention the speed shifting thats how I used to drag race my 67 mustang when I had the 4 speed in it except in cars we call it power shifting. Not sure how that will work out on my banshee on pavement but im going to try it out haha. Guess if im far enough forward we'll find out:)  Im planning on upgrading to 28mm or 30mm pwk carbs and V Force reeds in the next month or so. Then i get to jet those all over again but they seem easier to jet and I'll have practice then too! Hope its a improvement over the stock carburetors but I guess i'll never know till I try it out. Thanks for the tips.

453046[/snapback]

If your shee isn't ported, then the larger carbs will lose hp....also don't dump the clutch on pavement from a dead stop, but you can speed shift after, if it starts to come up into a wheelie, then just grab another gear...