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Posted

Hello. I have a 2004 Banshee. All stock. I bought a K&N Powerlid. Am keeping in the original airfilter for now till I buy a K&N airfilter to go inside. Anyways, I put on the lid and cranked up to see what it would do. to crank it I would have to pull the choke out all the way. Once cranked it would rev good in high rpms but once it got close to low to idle rpms it would bog out. I know that it needs to be rejetted. So I started to rejet. The instruction that came with the powerlid said for a completly stock banshee to put in 350s and move clip to #5 position. From what I have been reading on here, everyone is saying that is extremly to high of jets. I just want some input from people who have done jetting before. I havent tried to crank my shee with the 350s yet because the filter was missing one jet when i got it. it only came with one instead of two and none of the dealerships around have any in stock, they all have to order them. All info is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Posted

What is your elevation and air temp. that you are going to be riding in? Yes a 360 is to big for my bike even (no airbox, pipes). You need to get a airbox adaptor and a K&N asap! the stock filter is a shity design. Go to this website for an airbox kit.

www.nossmachine.com

Posted

I believe my elevation is 400' above sea level. and air temp will most probaly be between 60 and 100. 100 in middle summer so average riding temp somewhere around 80 probally. I will most definatly get a k&n air filter here soon. my next buy. And i just got the 350 mains in and cranked it up. I didnt drive it but just warmed it up and reved it up and it sound ok. still would die when it got to idle but was better than the 200 mains. although it backfired out of the left pipe and then i noticed it was hardly puting anything out of the left pipe, so i checked the plug and it fouled out. and had some unburnt mixed gas on the plug so 350s to big i am guessing. I also bought some 230 mains. I am gonna give these a shot next. gotta go get some plugs also. gonna do the plug chop test with these new plugs on the 230s. Thanks for the info Banshee~. Let me know what you think I should do at that elevation and air temp.

Posted
I believe my elevation is 400' above sea level.  and air temp will most probaly be between 60 and 100.  100 in middle summer so average riding temp somewhere around 80 probally.  I will most definatly get a k&n air filter here soon.  my next buy.  And i just got the 350 mains in and cranked it up.  I didnt drive it but just warmed it up and reved it up and it sound ok.  still would die when it got to idle but was better than the 200 mains.  although it backfired out of the left pipe and then i noticed it was hardly puting anything out of the left pipe, so i checked the plug and it fouled out.  and had some unburnt mixed gas on the plug so 350s to big i am guessing.  I also bought some 230 mains.  I am gonna give these a shot next.  gotta go get some plugs also.  gonna do the plug chop test with these new plugs on the 230s.  Thanks for the info Banshee~.  Let me know what you think I should do at that elevation and air temp.

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The 230's should be fine, you might even need a 240 main. Your next mods need to be a dynojet jet kit (yea i know its like $80) because the fuel needle is alot better than stock. I wasent sure about it at first, but when I put the new needles in it cleaned up the flat spot with my pipes. Also, with that needle you never have to change your pilot jets. Then get the airbox adaptor and k&n from noss. After that you should get some aftermarket pipes depending on what terrain you ride (trails, dunes, drag). With pipes and your airfilter your banshee will be a new machine (im not kidding either). A good trick to know: say your dialing in your mains like you are, you just put in the 230's and your taking it down the road at full throttle in a high gear. Pull the choke out half way and if it runs better your main jet is lean (go up a size). If it runs worse I would leave it like it is (i like to jet mine fat just incase).

Posted
The 230's should be fine, you might even need a 240 main. Your next mods need to be a dynojet jet kit (yea i know its like $80) because the fuel needle is alot better than stock. I wasent sure about it at first, but when I put the new needles in it cleaned up the flat spot with my pipes. Also, with that needle you never have to change your pilot jets. Then get the airbox adaptor and k&n from noss. After that you should get some aftermarket pipes depending on what terrain you ride (trails, dunes, drag). With pipes and your airfilter your banshee will be a new machine (im not kidding either). A good trick to know: say your dialing in your mains like you are, you just put in the 230's and your taking it down the road at full throttle in a high gear. Pull the choke out half way and if it runs better your main jet is lean (go up a size). If it runs worse I would leave it like it is (i like to jet mine fat just incase).

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the dynojet jet kit, is that just new needles or does the come with new jets also, just wondering, doesnt really matter. and as for the riding i do it is mainly trails and dirt road and roads, sometimes i might goto the mx track but i usally just ride trails. the dude at the shop where i bought some jets recommended paul turner pipes or even toomeys, which they are pretty expensive from what i have seen but my next buys will be that airfilter and adaptor, the dynojet you suggested and some pipes for sure. Well, i am gonna wait till morning to rejet the carbs to the 230 because i gotta go get some plugs anyways. I really do appreciate all the info man. It has helped out alot! Specially since this is my first time jetting. Its not hard just certain things to remeber keep trying different things till its right. Thanks again man.

Posted
the dynojet jet kit, is that just new needles or does the come with new jets also, just wondering, doesnt really matter.  and as for the riding i do it is mainly trails and dirt road and roads, sometimes i might goto the mx track but i usally just ride trails.  the dude at the shop where i bought some jets recommended paul turner pipes or even toomeys, which they are pretty expensive from what i have seen but my next buys will be that airfilter and adaptor, the dynojet you suggested and some pipes for sure.  Well, i am gonna wait till morning to rejet the carbs to the 230 because i gotta go get some plugs anyways.  I really do appreciate all the info man.  It has helped out alot!  Specially since this is my first time jetting.  Its not hard just certain things to remeber keep trying different things till its right.  Thanks again man.

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The dynojet jet kit comes with (2) 270 mains, (2) 280 mains, (2) 340 mains, (2) dynojet needles & shims, and some sweet sticers :evil: . I would pick one up when you get your pipes. Id recomend some fmf fatty's because they have good all around power. More bottem end than toomeys, but more top end than paul turner mids.

Posted
What is your elevation and air temp. that you are going to be riding in? Yes a 360 is to big for my bike even (no airbox, pipes). You need to get a airbox adaptor and a K&N asap! the stock filter is a shity design. Go to this website for an airbox kit.

www.nossmachine.com

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you never know, 360 might be right for his conditions, I run 460 mains in the winter because of the needles I have and it's so cold here :shrugani:

Posted
you never know, 360 might be right for his conditions, I run 460 mains in the winter because of the needles I have and it's so cold here  :shrugani:

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I bet you $15 that you have an airleak. There is no way he would need over a 250 for his mods.

Posted (edited)

Alright. I just did a plug chop with the 230 mains in. It is a dark brown black, which according to the jetting faq I need to go lower??? And and still didnt want to run right. When I cranked up with no choke there would be very little and i mean little smoke coming out of the left pipe and it would backfire a couple times and smoke coming out of the right side. If i pulled the choke out halfway smoke would start coming out of the left pipe and it ran a little better just sitting there and reving the engine and same for full choke but it wouldnt run any better. I could ride around with the choke halfway out and it would run good, but when i hit it and got to 1/2 throttle and more it would flatten out, so i would push the choke in and then it would top out. And dear lord the throttle response is deadly!!! If i so much as touch the throttle with my thumb it would go!! I am guessing that has to do with the needle clip position, they are on #5?!? And is there any adjustments I could do with the air/fuel mixture screw or is that for idleing only, because it wont stay idleing but i never messed with that screw yet, i want to get the right jet in first and then work on the idleing part. Please help. Thanks.

 

I just read something about the needle clip, I can make the mixture leaner (which is what i need I guess) by moving the clip up to 4 or maybe even the stock position 3. Cause the spark plug didnt look to bad i guess, 1/2 side was dark brown black and the other 1/2 side was just lightly dark brown black, dont know if that will help or not, just wondering.

 

I just checked the color on the plug on the right side(the one that was acting right) and it is a dark brown color, the left side was a dark brown to black and it was the side backfiring and didnt have any smoke coming out with no choke and did with choke

Edited by BradleyGZ
Posted

I would leave the needle in the stock position, but try a full throttle run with it on only half choke. I wouldent go any leaner on the main jet. The black on your plugs is from messing with the choke and that will mess up your reading. BTW what size main jets did it have in it stock?

Posted
I would leave the needle in the stock position, but try a full throttle run with it on only half choke. I wouldent go any leaner on the main jet. The black on your plugs is from messing with the choke and that will mess up your reading. BTW what size main jets did it have in it stock?

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I moved the clip position back to stock (#3) and it ran almost perfect. Smoke out of both pipes with no choke and it would idle. I done the WOT test and tried the choke thing and it strated bogging. After the test i pulled the plugs and checked them and they are a golden brown to brown. I did do the choke thing so maybe thats why they are brown. The only problem I had was from idle to 1/2 it was awsome but when I punched it full throttle it didnt really bog it just didnt go, i guess you would say it was flat? There really want any power with full throttle but I could drop back to half and it was good again. and the stock jets were 200 mains

Posted
I done the WOT test and tried the choke thing and it strated bogging.  After the test i pulled the plugs and checked them and they are a golden brown to brown.  I did do the choke thing so maybe thats why they are brown.  The only problem I had was from idle to 1/2 it was awsome but when I punched it full throttle it didnt really bog it just didnt go, i guess you would say it was flat?  There really want any power with full throttle but I could drop back to half and it was good again.

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Ok for the idle-1/4 is envolving the airscrews. Try turning them 1/2 a turn at a time allowing 30seconds for the engine to react to the adjustments. Go clockwise first, if it gets better (cleaner throttle response) kept going until its perfect. If it gets worse go counterclockwise (leaner) untill it gets better. What are you talking about when you say there isent any power with full throttle? Are you talking about with the choke all the way out? How did it act when you were wound out all the way and then pulled the choke half way out?

Posted
Ok for the idle-1/4 is envolving the airscrews. Try turning them 1/2 a turn at a time allowing 30seconds for the engine to react to the adjustments. Go clockwise first, if it gets better (cleaner throttle response) kept going until its perfect. If it gets worse go counterclockwise (leaner) untill it gets better. What are you talking about when you say there isent any power with full throttle? Are you talking about with the choke all the way out? How did it act when you were wound out all the way and then pulled the choke half way out?

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At full throttle with no choke it would flatten out or kinda start to bog. When i would pull the choke half way out it would really bog out then. Also i rode it last night when it was a good bit cooler and it rode perfect, it would bog out at full throttle

Posted
Also i rode it last night when it was a good bit cooler and it rode perfect, it would bog out at full throttle

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so it was riding perfect untill you were at full throttle or with the choke out it would bog? If you dident have the choke out you will need to go down 1 size on the main jets (220), or wait untill it get colder and it will run better.

Posted (edited)
so it was riding perfect untill you were at full throttle or with the choke out it would bog? If you dident have the choke out you will need to go down 1 size on the main jets (220), or wait untill it get colder and it will run better.

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I'm sorry, i meant to say that it didnt bog out last night when it was cooler. It rode nearly perfect but it still felt like it could be fine tuned a little more. but when it was warmer it would bog at full throttle. Last night it rode good with no choke. Yesterday when it was warmer when i pulled the choke half way out it would bog even more.

Also, yesterday after i done the WOT and cut it off there was smoke coming out of the pipes for a good couple of minutes. Is that because I killed the engine at full throttle or something else that might be serious?

Edited by BradleyGZ

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