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Posted (edited)

I remember somebody telling me that a needle on the 1st clip, is the same as the next leaner needle on the middle clip. Same applies if its on the bottom clip, it corresponds to the next richer needle on the middle clip.

 

So I've been trying to clean up my midrange on my 35PWK's and the CEL needles I have are now at the top (1st position) and although its gotten better, it still bogs. So what's the correct size needle I need to go to? I'm thinking I should go 2 sizes since that would basically mean the bottom position equals where I'm at now. Crap I dunno. Help please!

Edited by Wallrat
Posted (edited)

Found out a little from doing some searching:

 

calchart.gif

pj_jet.jpg

 

 

1/4 TO 3/4 Throttle

 

The JET NEEDLE is the most effective component in the range. Changing the STRAIGHT DIAMETER (D) will change the calibration in the transition range from the SLOW circuit to the MAIN circuit (1/8 to 1/4) throttle. A smaller diameter will make this range richer and a larger diameter will lean this range. TAPER (A) changes are only made if there is a problem balancing the calibration between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle. If the mixture is rich at 1/4 throttle and lean at 3/4 throttle, a JET NEEDLE with a larger taper is needed. If mixture is lean at 1/4 throttle and rich at 3/4 throttle, change to smaller taper. If the calibration is lean from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, raise the JET NEEDLE by lowering clip position, or use JET NEEDLE with shorter length (L1). If the calibration is rich, lower the JET NEEDLE with a longer (L1).

 

 

Well my throttle is bogging right around 1/2 throttle, which I guess is mostly due to taper and length, with a little bit of influence from diameter. So I think I'm okay on diameter. Maybe BGL? Or should I go with CGL?

Edited by Wallrat
Posted

I would try a CGL first.The middle letter is the length of the needle.That way your only changeing the length of the needle to a longer one,not the taper or diameter.

Posted

Hmm dunno Rat, I aint that smart so maybe I'm just not reading these charts right. Am I correct then in thinking that a CGL on the middle clip is the same as my CEL on the 1st clip?

Posted

wallrat if you want to lean the mid range out you want to change the taper

 

 

go to a BEL

 

 

what is your pilot and mains

 

a cel is a good needle i dont understand why you would want to lean it down more.

 

i have a set of cgl you can try if you want to pay shipping for them

 

 

most bikes like fuel

 

let me know

Posted

I'm on 38 pilots, 155 mains, air screws are 2 turns out. It idles great, throttle response off the bottom is perfect, WOT is strong. I just have a nasty bog right smack in the middle. I moved the needle from middle to 2nd and it helped, then from 2nd to 1st and it got even better. There's still a bog though.

Posted
I'm on 38 pilots, 155 mains, air screws are 2 turns out.  It idles great, throttle response off the bottom is perfect, WOT is strong.  I just have a nasty bog right smack in the middle.  I moved the needle from middle to 2nd and it helped, then from 2nd to 1st and it got even better.  There's still a bog though.

435889[/snapback]

 

 

your pilots sound super lean to me have you tried some 50 and see how the bike run with the cel in the middle and the 155s

Posted

I started off at 48p, 165m, 1.5 turns out, middle position on the needle. I've been stepping it down one at a time so I don't think I made it lean. It would barely idle with the 48p.

Posted

setup and elevation needed

 

 

i know i had a hard time getting mine to idle till i got the carb sync perfectly.

Posted (edited)

sea level, about 80 degrees, +4 stroker, mild dune port by custom creations, dual 35pwk air strykers w/ dual k&n's, +4 timing, t-5's, v force 2's, Trinity no crossover intakes

 

carbs are sync'd perfectly

Edited by Wallrat

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