Desert Race Setup

[Brisbane Banshee Boy]

G'day folks

 

Recently purchased my second banshee ('05 LED) that I would like to setup for desert racing, or outback racing as we call it here in Oz. I

Edited August 27, 2005 by Brisbane Banshee Boy

[BenBB]

Alot depends on the course, but the basics are the same; suspension, reliability, physical conditioning, and saving time...

 

IMO Banshees are pretty competitive in the open stuff with only minor mods like you already have. The big difference you'll see compared to the thumpers is that Banshees will tire you out faster in the tight stuff-clutching, shifting and hanging on when the power hits does wear on you.

 

Anyway for reliability, some good ideas are full chassis/a-arm/swingarm skidplates (I like PRM), reinforced rims (beadlocks aren't really a necessity), tall tires with lotsa plies (I prefer Holeshots, 23" front and 20" rear), make sure your cooling system is up to snuff (I run Water Wetter in good quality 50/50 antifreeze and water, put some foam around the radiator so air doesn't flow around it), make sure your jetting is dialed in, and make sure everything is mechanically sound (compression, cables, etc.).

 

Saving time, I run an IMS 5.5 gal tank, minutes lost in the pits refueling are hard to make up. Tearoffs help in muddy conditions. Use a camelback. Don't pit for longer than you have to, and avoid it if at all possible (I carry a tire plug set and a can of fix-a-flat, CO2 flat fixer would be better).

 

Physical conditioning, well just ride as much as you can, as hard as you can. Desert/XC is alot more about stamina and bulletproofing your machine than anything else I think...you can't win if you don't finish. If at all possible ride the race course beforehand and do the prerides, memorize the hairy sections and where to really open it up.

 

Suspension-get the best you can afford, it WILL pay off. Long travel isn't always a necessity, unless you're over 250lbs, but it doesn't hurt if you got the bucks. If it's open desert get it as wide as you can (+3 a-arms, +4 axle). Don't flip the rims or get more offset than stock (at least the fronts), when the wheel is more outboard of the spindle it'll tend to jerk the bars with every little rut. I like Lonestar's axle, mine has been through hell and back. My Ricky Stator +2 a-arms have worked great, most aftermarket a-arms seem to be pretty good quality. I run Works front shocks and love them, best bang for the buck and mine are perfect for what I do (the stock Ohlins rear is a good unit). A steering stabilizer should help, I need one but haven't been able to take advantage of my Denton sponsorship yet, there are some real high-dollar ones out there but I haven't tried them. On a side note I like the front end high to get through the whoops, stiff front shocks and 23" front tires makes getting the front end up for whoops alot easier, especially when you're dead tired on the last lap.

 

Other than that, just remember the little stuff; traction & gearing to suit the course, fresh fuel, clean air filter, etc. Good luck!!

[BenBB]

One more thing, take some pics/video, I want to see what the races are like down under!

[Brisbane Banshee Boy]

Thanks BenBB

Racing in Oz will be all new to me, so I'll definitely get some footage where possible. I

Edited August 28, 2005 by Brisbane Banshee Boy