Blacksmith Posted October 4, 2004 Report Posted October 4, 2004 I would back off the 8 nuts that hold the cylinders to the case before I put the head on again. Put the head back on using new orings, and all your best tips and tricks. After you have torqued the head down, tighten the base studs back up. The other thing I would do is change torque wrenches. There could be a chance yours is out of spec (perhaps you forgot and stored it without backing it off) and you are not really getting the head tight. Good luck. Quote
FireHead Posted October 4, 2004 Author Report Posted October 4, 2004 I would back off the 8 nuts that hold the cylinders to the case before I put the head on again. Put the head back on using new orings, and all your best tips and tricks. This is a fantastic idea. I wish I would have thought of it. I have recalibrated my torque wrench within the past two resealing attemps, so thats not it. Thank you for all of the advice. Quote
fixitrod Posted October 4, 2004 Report Posted October 4, 2004 I would back off the 8 nuts that hold the cylinders to the case before I put the head on again. Put the head back on using new orings, and all your best tips and tricks. This is a fantastic idea. I wish I would have thought of it. I have recalibrated my torque wrench within the past two resealing attemps, so thats not it. Thank you for all of the advice. Make sure those cylinders seal. I'd rather have a coolant leak that's obvious than an air leak that's not. It is a great idea however to prove if it's the cylinder matting surface or the head. I never thought of doing it that way. Quote
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