mrmatt Posted July 3, 2004 Report Posted July 3, 2004 I have my case split to replace my crank seals. I checked the crank dimensions given in the Clymer's manual and everything check out within spec. Is there anything else that I should check to make sure that my crank is OK before I put it back together? Quote
boonman Posted July 3, 2004 Report Posted July 3, 2004 I would weld it before it goes back in if it is alright. (within spec) I have some pics, but unfortunately I can't upload them. I have to figure a few things out on that end. The specs are listed, (as you've found) and if everything checks out, I would weld it. (and true it). Quote
banshee04le Posted July 3, 2004 Report Posted July 3, 2004 I watched a guy trueing a crank one time. He layed it up on a bearing jig so he could spin it and positioned and zeroed a dial mic on the shaft. The dial mic was setup on a simple positionable jig with a magnetic base. He spun a crank and it was about .030 out of wack. You can tell where the high spot is by watching the mic needle. He grabbed the crank and wacked one of the throws caveman style with a big brass hammer about 2or 3 times. He layed it back up in there and it was much closer, about .007! He then took a smaller brass hammer and wacked it some more. After some fine tune wacking he had it spinning true and set it aside to be welded. Quote
frocashmoney24 Posted July 3, 2004 Report Posted July 3, 2004 glad i wasent watching it and it wasent my crank, id be goin crazy when he hit it with a hammer!, but yea if its allright, get it trued and welded, make sure it never comes apart on ya Quote
Cotton eyed Joe Posted July 3, 2004 Report Posted July 3, 2004 I watched a guy trueing a crank one time. He layed it up on a bearingjig so he could spin it and positioned and zeroed a dial mic on the shaft. The dial mic was setup on a simple positionable jig with a magnetic base. He spun a crank and it was about .030 out of wack. You can tell where the high spot is by watching the mic needle. He grabbed the crank and wacked one of the throws caveman style with a big brass hammer about 2or 3 times. He layed it back up in there and it was much closer, about .007! He then took a smaller brass hammer and wacked it some more. After some fine tune wacking he had it spinning true and set it aside to be welded. Thats how I dial in shit in the lathes. I have a 46 oz ballast hammer that I beat the f*ck out of stuff with to get it running true. If that don't work I have a brass hammer thats about 15 lbs, but thats usually saved for items that refuse to work, like a cell phone or calculator. Sometimes all it needs is one good whack to bring it in with a smaller hammer. I've had shit running out .010 and I can get it .000. Sometimes though you do need a gentile touch. Also you sometimes have to hit it towards the chuck, or loosen the chuck tap it around, tighten the chuck a little...spend all damn day on one part Quote
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