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nickon's banshee repair / rebuild


nickon

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What's the last two pics? Doesn't look like a pilot jet to me. Pilot jet you will need a small flat head and it needs removed from here....
http://www.dfn.com/agservices/Meatpic3.jpg



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You can tell I'm new to carbs and wasn't paying attention? Just unscrewed the pilot jets and they're 25. Seems to be the correct setup then?

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  • 2 months later...

Ok, after finally getting al parts in and inbetween chores and getting married, I managed to get some work in on the banshee :)

Removed parking break and it's electronic connection and installed an ART end cap.

Removed the TORS (on top of carbs + the brain) and installed new Moose throttle cable with direct end caps on the carburators. No more rev limiting has occured since!

After setting the floats to 21.00mm both carburators were still leaking / overflowing fuel. Installed carburator repair kit on both carburators and they stopped leaking. I'm convinced this is due to the old main jet seals being worn. I really needed to squeeze in the new main jets compared to the old ones, which dropped in (and out) easily.

Synced the carbs 5 kg/h (idle) and 10kg/h and it's idling well now, no more spontaneous shutdowns when idling so far.

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I do have some other questions though.

Question 1: electrical

It occurred to me twice that I fired up the bike first kick, idling well, putting on the lights, leaving off with it and having it shut down on me, not being able to kick-start it again. This has never happened to me with the lights off, or when I first leave off with the bike and then turn on the lights while driving.

Because of this it has me thinking it has something to do with the stator (lights draining the spark plugs from firing at some point). I did a stator reading using a multi-meter and this came out

  • Ignition coil (red to green)
    Recommended: 13.7 - 20.5 Ω
    Actual: 17.9 Ω

  • Pickup coil (white-red tracer to white-green tracer)
    Recommended: 94 - 140 Ω
    Actual: 115.1 Ω

  • Lighting coil (black to yellow)
    Recommended: 0.26 - 0.38 Ω
    Actual: 0.095 Ω

Maybe worth noting that in the "hi" position, only one of the lights is producing light, the other is not. In "lo", both are working just fine.

What to do next?
 

Question 2: cooling

I was letting the bike idle for about 10 mins while getting my helmet and jacket with the outside temperature at 25°C. When leaving off with it, the radiator started to fume due to very hot coolant being pumped into it. I immediately stopped and shut down the bike and let it cool down for a while. Then left off with it again without any issues. It has me worried though.

Is it normal that it heats up that quickly when stationary?
I assume the water pump is only running when the bike is in gear and I’m actually driving? Is this normal?

Even though this might not be a solution to the problem described, I'm thinking about switching out the radiator for a new, over-sized one. The original one seems pretty beaten up to me, what do you guys think?

IMG_20170828_171952.jpg IMG_20170828_172007.jpg

Edited by nickon
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1 hour ago, nickon said:

I do have some other questions though.

Question 1: electrical

It occurred to me twice that I fired up the bike first kick, idling well, putting on the lights, leaving off with it and having it shut down on me, not being able to kick-start it again. This has never happened to me with the lights off, or when I first leave off with the bike and then turn on the lights while driving.

Because of this it has me thinking it has something to do with the stator (lights draining the spark plugs from firing at some point). I did a stator reading using a multi-meter and this came out

  • Ignition coil (red to green)
    Recommended: 13.7 - 20.5 Ω
    Actual: 17.9 Ω

  • Pickup coil (white-red tracer to white-green tracer)
    Recommended: 94 - 140 Ω
    Actual: 115.1 Ω

  • Lighting coil (black to yellow)
    Recommended: 0.26 - 0.38 Ω
    Actual: 0.095 Ω

Maybe worth noting that in the "hi" position, only one of the lights is producing light, the other is not. In "lo", both are working just fine.

What to do next?
 

Question 2: cooling

I was letting the bike idle for about 10 mins while getting my helmet and jacket with the outside temperature at 25°C. When leaving off with it, the radiator started to fume due to very hot coolant being pumped into it. I immediately stopped and shut down the bike and let it cool down for a while. Then left off with it again without any issues. It has me worried though.

Is it normal that it heats up that quickly when stationary?
I assume the water pump is only running when the bike is in gear and I’m actually driving? Is this normal?

Even though this might not be a solution to the problem described, I'm thinking about switching out the radiator for a new, over-sized one. The original one seems pretty beaten up to me, what do you guys think?

IMG_20170828_171952.jpg IMG_20170828_172007.jpg

if the motor is running the water pump is running.  granted it isnt doing any actually cooling because you arent moving air through the radiator. so it can build heat depending on how long you let it sit there.  you have to keep the quad moving to the air flow through the rad. 

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