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Read My Story.. And Help With Jetting After Porting!


BansheeTeam

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My story... 

 

I've used my 2006 banshee since I got it from the showroom back in 2007 with no problems until I decided to fresh'in things up a month ago by doing an overhaul or a complete rebuilt... And so I asked around and was always looking to keep reliability up so they told me OEM pistons was the way to go but I wanted a bit of extra bang and decided to go with Wiseco .25 over since I needed to have my cylinders bored I figured why not. 

 

So I got Wiseco's kit and had the cylinders bored (one size over stock) and the stock head milled 0.020" so I can still run pump gas (95 octane in my country). The guy who done the rebuilt for me also suggested to go with Pro-x bearings for the crank and so I did and after the built was complete I allowed approximately 8 hours for break-in... Did not ride WOT until after the 8 and so hours. I also had my clutches replaced with the standard OEM ones during the rebuild... Here is where problems started.

 

After riding WOT the bike just felt wrong, with not as much power as I expected.. almost felt like I never got a rebuilt in the first place, when I told this to my friend he said that this is because the bike isn't tuned yet and needs to get the carb synced along with the air screws adjusted bla bla bla. Took it to my banshee buddy (has serious experience with banshees cause he only works on them and other 2 stocks). All of a sudden he told me that the block was tight and that the place that had my cylinders bored did something wrong and didn't know how to specially for Wiseco pistons since they expand as they are heated est. He says he knows of this information due to past experience with his banshee, anyways I did the basic carb tuning and went out for a ride.

 

Found myself a nice decent road to hit 6th gear at WOT after holding the throttle wide open for around 8 seconds the shee just switched off :s so I pulled in the clutch leaver until slowing down threw it to 4th gear and let go of the clutch she worked just fine but I immediately returned back to report the problem to my banshee buddy. He said that defiantly means the block was tight and the bike needed to re-opened for inspection. However they guy who put my bike together said that if it was it would have jammed in the first place and/or not even work... Making me confused so I just rode it for approximately 10 more hours and then decided to do a compression test and here is where things got bad...

 

The test measured 90 PSI on the right piston and 105 PSI on the other. When I told this to my banshee buddy he said that she's dead and needs to be re-opened. So he's taken her apart and now found out that in fact it was due to the liner or whatever being tight. So now that I have to have my top end replaced I am going for OEM pistons .50 over (2 sizes over stock). I will also replace my clutches to the F.A.S.T w/ light springs clutches I have ordered. And my VF3 to the newly designed VF4.

 

I will also get some porting done to my motor since it is disassembled, my buddy said he would charge me around 140$ which I figured isn't much. My question is how much richer should I jet after all this is done? My mods include:

 

Toomey T5 

Pod K&N's w/ outerwears

VF3 (now switching to 4)

Wiseco .25 (switching to OEM .50)

Trinity Adjustable Timing Plate set to I think +4 (What would be best for me?) Please help.

Milled stock head 0.020"

15/42 gearing (planning on 16/42 if all goes well)

Motion Pro T.OR.S eliminator kit

Moose Racing Boost Bottle (recently put the stock crossover tube instead) (should I throw the boost bottle back on?)

300 Dyno-jet main jet (Thinking of throwing in 340's after the rebuilt and port does it sound good?)

25 pilot (throwing in 30's after the rebuild)

Dyno-jet needle 

(ordering a lowering kit for the front to help with drag racing)

 

 

Thanks guys I know it's a long story but I need help and wanted to get things as clear as possible,

Salman.

Edited by BansheeTeam
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Why does everyone always doubt the guy who says it's wrong and needs more to be right and…... end up trusting the guy that says every things fine it just needs some fiddling with?

 

In your case…..WOT = Wanna Open Topend 

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Because they want someone to tell them what they want to hear, not what they need to hear.

 

 

Btw that was your shortest post ever.

No.

 

"Umm NO." And "FFS" Were my 2 shortest post ever. But if you like I could take a page or two to tell you about it in detail. LOL

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Also babying it around for 8 hours is a terrible way to break in an engine.

 

Then what would be the best way to break it in? Sorry i'm just worried and don't want anything else to go wrong i've taken a look at the cylinders they're scratched up and the pistons were beat i'm working with the best guy in town now I shouldn't have worked with the guy I did work with the first time... I can't afford sending them anywhere, jesus I can barley afford getting this job done.

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You would be crazy not to save and send it hear many of banshee specific people who ship out of country,the problem you have now is you don't know which w ay is up. IMO you need to have your crank checked trued/welded since it's 7 years old,wiseco forged pistons are the way to go over oem cast junk when you plan on porting and raising compression they flat out hold up better.new seal knit .leak down and compression and squish test b4 starting anything .remember clean,clean,clean. You could eat off an engine after I put it together,use assembly lube and grease another biggie is washing cylinders down with hot soapy water after bore job you can erase a crosshatch almost emediatly and destroy a piston. You could have destroyed your crank with the last build need to check for sure and I mean not visually on a true stand check bearing run outs big end play and true

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