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crank brearing question, think i screwed up


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I removed my new max load and tz bearing off my old crank and then installed on my new crank I got from fast. But when I installed the max load I noticed it felt like there was a piece of debris in it. The more I free spun it the smoother it would get. Let it sit for a bit and spin again and I could feel it again. The process I used was the oven/freezer trick and it worked great. But the first time I tried it I had the temp at 200 and I only got the max load on half way. So I pulled it back off and increased to 260 and they slid right on. I only had it in for about 15 -20 min. I'm wondering if the bearing is now damaged or warped due to excessive heat. I'm going to order another one, I just don't want to make the same mistake again.

 

And yes, I did use the proper tool. I ordered the tusk puller and it worked perfect, unless the force being applied to the outer race damaged it Idk.

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clam-shell splitter/puller? anyways, clean and oil the bearing and inspect wear, etc. could be possible, you simply got a little dirt in there. if you feel like saving $40, then look for it to stick to a ball, or in between

 

It's the clam style, and the bearing has 0 hours on it. I'll try and clean it and oil it and see what happens.

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Rinsed it with hot water and soap, I don't feel the hang up anymore. I'll soak it in oil and see what happens.

Guess I'll run it if it smoothes out.

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I oiled it but it is a bit noisey. Has anyone experienced this with the max loads, I'm wondering if it may be the cage design that may make it kinda chatter.

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how so? that's where the foce is placed to initially separate away from the webbing. this is why i do not hammer the clam-shell in on these, like you would in other aplications, where you actually can get on the inner race. i'll try to dig one out tonight, if i can find the time.

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how so? that's where the foce is placed to initially separate away from the webbing. this is why i do not hammer the clam-shell in on these, like you would in other aplications, where you actually can get on the inner race. i'll try to dig one out tonight, if i can find the time.

Pulling against the outside race to remove the inside race from the shaft exerts all the force from the outside race though the balls or rollers to the inside race which can cause damage to the balls/rollers or races which will lead to bearing failure.

 

SP

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When removing a bearing by pulling through the internal balls or rollers there is a risk of damage to the races. Even using a bearing splitter (I think that is what you refer to as a clam style). It is alsways a bad idea to introduce a hammer or any pounding device when installing or removing bearings as I think goes without saying. Not saying that damage occurs everytime but the risk is there. And for $40, I'd rather press on a new bearing than split the cases again.

 

SP

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When removing a bearing by pulling through the internal balls or rollers there is a risk of damage to the races. Even using a bearing splitter (I think that is what you refer to as a clam style). It is alsways a bad idea to introduce a hammer or any pounding device when installing or removing bearings as I think goes without saying. Not saying that damage occurs everytime but the risk is there. And for $40, I'd rather press on a new bearing than split the cases again.

 

SP

 

No, I never hit it with anything, I just tightened the two halves enough to grab the race then it pulled right off. And your right I'm not taking a chance, I'm ordering a new one. But now I may see about finding a better quality bearing. Do yall have any advice on that? I have a sks right now but are the ntn better?

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No, I never hit it with anything, I just tightened the two halves enough to grab the race then it pulled right off. And your right I'm not taking a chance, I'm ordering a new one. But now I may see about finding a better quality bearing. Do yall have any advice on that? I have a sks right now but are the ntn better?

 

SKF are good bearings. Depending on the application you can get a Max load bearing or TZ bearing but I wouldn't worry about that unless you are making over 100 hp. Also, the use of straight cut gears will reduce/eliminate any side load on the bearings making a ball bearing adequate for the application. Just my opinion here, I am sure others will agree as well as some will disagree.

 

I would say pulling the bearing the way you did is all up to experience as to whether to reuse it. After years of being a mechanic you kind of know/feel if the bearing came off easily enough not to have been damaged. Usually something like an interference fit comes off easily enough while a press fit most likely wont.

 

 

SP

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SKF are good bearings. Depending on the application you can get a Max load bearing or TZ bearing but I wouldn't worry about that unless you are making over 100 hp. Also, the use of straight cut gears will reduce/eliminate any side load on the bearings making a ball bearing adequate for the application. Just my opinion here, I am sure others will agree as well as some will disagree.

 

I would say pulling the bearing the way you did is all up to experience as to whether to reuse it. After years of being a mechanic you kind of know/feel if the bearing came off easily enough not to have been damaged. Usually something like an interference fit comes off easily enough while a press fit most likely wont.

 

 

SP

 

I do have straight cuts and a tz on the clutch end, this is a 421 cub drag ported by K&T, so hopefully I'll be around 100hp. And the bearing came off quiet easy, it was moving as I was tightning the nuts to clamp it down. I'll get another anyway after this weekend. Thanks man

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