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Posted

I was just explaining the principle of back loading, wasnt talking about duneables or anything. Just backloading in general.

 

Well, using the engine to slow you down is call "Compression Braking or Engine Braking" normally used in Tractor's and known as the Jake Brake.

 

So Redline threw a wrench in what everyone has said about duneables. Down shift if you want, just make sure that you are going to use the power you are putting into the transmission. IE: Dropping a gear to accelerate or to get back on the pipe. You can let off the gas, it will slow you down, but don't use the engine to slow you down going down a hill?

 

The popular theory states, you cannot downshift a duneable. The exception is that you do not need to be at a complete stop to shift down, but you need to be in the same power ratio for your gearing. You came to the top of the hill, pulled the clutch, slowed down, you can downshift to idle speed in 2nd gear and take off from there, or whatever would be relevant to how you are riding at that time.

 

Also the Duneable is a better transmission than a stocker and allows MORE backloading than a stock? This I do not understand.

 

Adam

 

One question answered, and 50 new ones.

Posted

Popular thought used to be that a boost bottle was a good idea. Redline cuts over rides so maybe he would be the one to listen to?

 

 

I am well aware of what engine braking is. I drive a truck for a living. It's also known as overrun.

Posted

No guys when he says standard he means a full override not STOCK. If you are going to be backloading the trans a lot stay stock or cut off every other dog but don't do the overrride. The duneables are just a more forgiving version of a standard override. If you come off the throttle every once in a while without disengaging the clutch you will be ok. As where a standard override does not like to be backloaded at all

  • Like 1
Posted

look its pretty simple really..

 

if you RIDE the bike and you have NO experience with an overide or duneable or spring assisted bla bla bla

 

do a stock modified trans that actually works OR expect to be putting shift forks in it and most likely trashing a few gears..

 

when the trans is lised as a 2-5 it would be able to be upshifted fullthrottle from 2nd-3rd-4th-5th. most times it would not have a 1st gear OR would have first but not be overrideable from that gear to start.

 

if the listing for the trans shows 1-3 m4 m5 then it would be overrideable from 1-2-3 and then you would need to manually shift to 4th and to 5th these transmission are a total waste of time i guarantee that you will need those last few gears and will loose races by using one.

 

if its listed as N down neutral is all the way down its done a few ways but the better ones actually shift into 6th gear but 6th is not there anymore. some go inbetween 2 gears like stock but they are actually inbetween 6/1 gear.

 

then there are also 6speed full overrides. and billet 4 speeds transmissions.. i PERSONALLY prefer the 1-5 N down over ALL other overides due to the fact its locked in 6th ( NEUTRAL) If its built right. ive seen some that arenot. and not floping on the edge of the star. PLUS if you gear and use the trans corectlly you can have a much stronger launch with one. instead of overloading in 2nd and trying to use the clutch to control things more. BUT again thats my OPINION> ALSO in my OPINION i'd say a PROPER stock modified trans is the way to go for MOST rec riders out there. and NO its not JUST cutting the gears on the trans. there is much more to it.

Posted

look its pretty simple really..

 

if you RIDE the bike and you have NO experience with an overide or duneable or spring assisted bla bla bla

 

do a stock modified trans that actually works OR expect to be putting shift forks in it and most likely trashing a few gears..

 

when the trans is lised as a 2-5 it would be able to be upshifted fullthrottle from 2nd-3rd-4th-5th. most times it would not have a 1st gear OR would have first but not be overrideable from that gear to start.

 

if the listing for the trans shows 1-3 m4 m5 then it would be overrideable from 1-2-3 and then you would need to manually shift to 4th and to 5th these transmission are a total waste of time i guarantee that you will need those last few gears and will loose races by using one.

 

if its listed as N down neutral is all the way down its done a few ways but the better ones actually shift into 6th gear but 6th is not there anymore. some go inbetween 2 gears like stock but they are actually inbetween 6/1 gear.

 

then there are also 6speed full overrides. and billet 4 speeds transmissions.. i PERSONALLY prefer the 1-5 N down over ALL other overides due to the fact its locked in 6th ( NEUTRAL) If its built right. ive seen some that arenot. and not floping on the edge of the star. PLUS if you gear and use the trans corectlly you can have a much stronger launch with one. instead of overloading in 2nd and trying to use the clutch to control things more. BUT again thats my OPINION> ALSO in my OPINION i'd say a PROPER stock modified trans is the way to go for MOST rec riders out there. and NO its not JUST cutting the gears on the trans. there is much more to it.

 

 

Thank you! A good, full, straight answer that answers all my questions. Much appreciated :cheers:

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