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Dead Man Switch


WillG.

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I have been thinking of installing a dead man switch on my Shee. But upon looking at a few different ones, I see there may be different ones for atv's with open circuit or close circuit systems (Pro Armor brand). Which does the banshee have? Also I saw one (Tusk brand) that says the key switch has to be disconnected for the switch to work. I would like to keep the key switch as well. If anyone can let me know some good switches to choose from, and how/ where exactly to wire/ tap into would be appreciated. Thanks!

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you will notice when you removed the tors box under the gas tank, that there is 3 unused wires. black, black/white, and yellow/black. forget the yellow/black, and use the black, and black/white. black is ground, and black/white is the kill, connected to the same wire used for the kill-switch on the handle bars. this would be for a switch that is open to run. for the tusk switch, it may come with a plug on it, and would be a closed to run. simply cut the plug off of it and wire in series with the black/red wire by cutting it somewhere and making it run through the switch before going to the key. then, you still have use of the key, and the switch. some, also just wire a open to run switch between ground and the orange coil wire, though i do not like the idea. however, they swear by it working fine. this, to me, would be for a race bike that has had the harness trimmed down to nothing but the bare essentials to produce spark. i still prefer just wiring it strait to the unused tors wires...

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if you go with the keyswitch, then yes, you want it closed (completes the circuit) when installed. if you go with the tors rout, then you want it open. i still would unplug the little black box under the gas tank and use the 2 black tors wires, because eventually, the tors system will malfunction, leaving you stranded without spark. when you unplug that box, it completely disables the tors. if you are dead set on keeping the tors active, as a rare few do, then you can, but familiarize yourself with how it works, do not force the idle screws, as that is sure to damage it in a way that it will activate. either way, with ot without tors, you need to make sure you clean your carbs and lube the cables regularly, usually annnually, when bringing it out of storage, and/or putting it away. all it does is kill the spark if a slide or cable sticks

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The information you have provided has been very helpful! I am processing it all, and will decide what may work best at this time. If I understand you correctly by disconnecting the tors (If i choose to do so) it will still run and function properly, but will not kill the engine if a slide stays open?

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well, if the slide/cable sticks and you have a tether, you can either pull the tether, or hit the killswitch to kill it, other than that, it will still run normally. the tors is just a series of switches known to fail often, and has no programming at all.

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Gotcha, understood. Sounds simple enough. I was looking at the Pro Armor switch again. it looks like that one may come as a normally closed circuit, but can be changed and ran as an open circuit as well. That may be good for the versatility. They dont have an "installation harnesses" for the banshee, but seems simple enough to not need the harness and just get the switch and run two wires.

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Ok i got the Pro Armor brand tether switch today. Its a pretty nice piece. After checking it out, I can confirm that it is a open circuit switch. So it looks like install options are limited. Since i want to keep the function of the key, I may be limited to installing it through the tors wires or coil wire as stated before.

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