Glamis321 Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 So I just finished installing a chariot timing plate, adjusted it to +4, and started it up and let it idle. It was idling perfectly and revving fine. I was in the process of syncing my carbs with the carb tool, when it just stopped running. Now when I try and start it its only running on one side (left side/stator side) and will backfire. I dropped the timing plate back down to 0 but its not helping. I have spark on both plugs, and I triple checked everything on the stator. Plate is on correctly and set at +0, flywheel is on the key and everything seems nice and tight. Any ideas what could have happened?? The bike has been sitting for a few months and I've been getting it ready for an upcoming glamis trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee8 Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Take the carbs off, one at a time, and clean them throughly. Remove the pilot, and mains, before attempting to clean them. Since you left it set, I'm sure you've got some kinda crud in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glamis321 Posted October 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 carbs are all clean, filters are clean. Fuel smells like its not bad but ill throw some fresh 91 in just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glamis321 Posted October 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Recleaned the carbs and added fresh fuel, and now the bike wont even try to start. I can kick it all day and not even a pop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glamis321 Posted October 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Key looks good, but its stuck pretty good in the crank. dont they usually fall right out? and is there any way to tell if its an advance degree key vs stock? Maybe the previous owner threw one in and didnt tell me. Also the pick up gap is set to .018, everything is tight and timing is set at +0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man-O-Steele Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 did you try switching the wires to sell if the problem follows? i say try a different stator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man-O-Steele Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 if it has spark and fuel but wont start i would definitely try a different cdi. i had that problem a month or so ago and it was the cdi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Check the resistance across your primary and secondary coils on the stator, and check the resistance across the pickup. Check that your CDI ground wire is grounded to the frame good, check that your coil has a good ground. Run a ground wire from the frame to the engine. The resistance readings on your stator will tell you if your stator is good or not. The flywheel should never just "fall off" you should have to use a flywheel puller tool to get it off. Double-check that your flywheel key is in place and that your flywheel is seated correctly. Next would be your spark plug caps and new plugs. Have you checked your compression yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glamis321 Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Check the resistance across your primary and secondary coils on the stator, and check the resistance across the pickup. Check that your CDI ground wire is grounded to the frame good, check that your coil has a good ground. Run a ground wire from the frame to the engine. The resistance readings on your stator will tell you if your stator is good or not. The flywheel should never just "fall off" you should have to use a flywheel puller tool to get it off. Double-check that your flywheel key is in place and that your flywheel is seated correctly. Next would be your spark plug caps and new plugs. Have you checked your compression yet? The flywheel didnt just fall off. I had to pull it off with a flywheel puller. I was asking about the key usually falling out once the flywheel is pulled off, mine didnt, and is pretty well stuck in the crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glamis321 Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 also I have not checked compression yet because i dont have a compression tester but I'll let you know when I get ahold of one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 The flywheel didnt just fall off. I had to pull it off with a flywheel puller. I was asking about the key usually falling out once the flywheel is pulled off, mine didnt, and is pretty well stuck in the crank. That's ok. The key should stick in there pretty good. Its not a bad thing if it stays in there when the flywheel comes off. Whats the resistance on your stator wires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glamis321 Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Lighting coil (yellow to black) was .7, Pickup coil (white/red to white/green) was 117, and charging coil (green to red) was 18.5 The only one out of spec was the lighting coil according to my clymers (should be between .26 and .38) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glamis321 Posted October 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 Update: Checked my coil with a meter and I'm reading .5 for primary reading (terminal to terminal) and getting an open circuit for secondary (terminal to plug cap). Removed the plug caps and still getting an open circuit from the wire to the terminal. Is there any way to remove the wires from the coil so I can check to see if the wires are bad? I already trimmed about 1/4 inch off the ends and still getting the same result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted October 31, 2011 Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 Update: Checked my coil with a meter and I'm reading .5 for primary reading (terminal to terminal) and getting an open circuit for secondary (terminal to plug cap). Removed the plug caps and still getting an open circuit from the wire to the terminal. Is there any way to remove the wires from the coil so I can check to see if the wires are bad? I already trimmed about 1/4 inch off the ends and still getting the same result. You got any buddies with a coil you could borrow for testing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glamis321 Posted October 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 Possibly, but after some further searching I read that the clymers was written wrong on how to test the secondary on the coil, instead of going plug cap to terminal, your supposed to go plug cap to plug cap. Using this method I ring out at 6000 ohms, which is right within spec. One of my plug caps is still testing bad though, so I'm going to pick up some new ones tomorrow and see if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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