gotta_goatsfast Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 If funds allow, I would shoot for a 421 and you can always sell your stock stroke hotrods crank to off set the cost. CP industries is more known for producing the cheetah cubs, cheetahs, supercubs, ect. The serval line is simply a "torquey" version of the cheetah cub. It shares all the fine casting qualities, it shares the basic port technology as the cub to flow massive amounts of air. But the port timings have been altered to produce a wide, easy to ride-yet powerful as hell powerband. With my engine (look in my sig for specific parts) and 15/40 gearing with aggressive tires, I can lug the engine down to 3000rpm (well below the main powerband) and it still has enough nut to break the tires loose on tough grass... if I transfer my weight back for traction I can indeed do a wheelie with my +2 swinger at said rpm. What else is sweet? The powerband comes on smooth enough that the tires still grab (yet spin) when the powerband hits. An aggressive powerband is hard to manipulate in the terrain you and I ride in because the sudden rush of power leaves the tires spinning struggling for traction. This engine comes up on the pipe around 5000-5500rpm (with R2s) but does it smooth enough as to let the tires retain some grip. The result? Accelleration, not trenches. The powerband on my setup (I consider) very broad for a two stroke. Stay between 5500rpm and 10,500rpm and you have more power than you know what to do with. Believe me, you will cover ground very fast. When coming out of a corner onto a straight, its very easy to embarrass the 4 stroke guys. Passing a stock or lightly modified 4 stroke is like passing a scooter on the interstate. Just remember you are travelling way faster so you'll relearn your braking techniques and skills to compensate (I did). In long races, rider fatigue plays a big part. The banshee will kick your ass more than most quads. But being able to hold a gear through a corner and pinning the throttle exiting without chugging the motor really does help you more than trying to hunt for that gear to get you into the powerband and then shifting up quickly or risk overreving (and not accelerating anymore). If you weren't so far away I'd let you hop on mine. If you make it to Wisconsin, I'll gladly show you around. Just remember, with this much motor a proper suspension and brake setup is super important! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodneym Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 Nice posting in this thread. Good luck getting your quad back together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS3 Machine Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 Definately need bigger main jets about 155. Plus you are at 20CC domes? The smallest I have ever heard reccomended is 21cc on pump gas. I would throw in a gallon of high octane per every 5 gal at the minimum if I were you (unless you enjoy doing rebuilds). Good Luck and keep us posted on your results! . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted August 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 The best bang for your buck would be a Serval cylinder. They are a monoblock available in stock, +4, +7 and +10 strokes and in 65 and 68 bores. They are made by CP industries and any of the site sponsors who do engines on here can get one for you including myself. The stock stroke aftermarket cylinders aren't economically corrected to stroker setups because they all have too much transfer timing to drop in a longer stroke crank. The powervalved cylinders such as the cheetah and big block twisters do make great torque, but are very pricey. The cheetah requires a little less work to install than the Twister but I think you'll find both topends much out of the pricerange you mentioned. You can do a 421 (4mil) serval complete build for the price of just the trinity or twister top end. Give me a shout if you want to talk a little more on it. -Brandon Trinity told me I could buy this Polished CHEETAH 358cc Mono Block Cylinder Set Up with Trinity's Aggressive Trail Port and Polish for $700 shipped to my door. I I'm leaning this way because all my bolt on parts like my Trinity Stage IV Cool Head, Reed Cages, and so on will bolt right on. I figured If I decided to go this rout I'd buy the Wiseco 65mm Top End Kit (2 PISTONS PINS RINGS C-CLIPS GASKETS TOP END BEARINGS) and drop in the Cheetah Cylinders. If I go this way the total cost $889.00 Shipped to my door. If I bought this Small Block could I add there Power Valve set up later on down the road? I want a P.V. Set up bad! I've herd that a Power Valve set up on a Banshee gives you lugging grunt low end that is comparable to most you Big CC Woods Bikes like the Raptor, but you still have a high revving Power Band. Its supposed to be the best of both of both worlds 4-stroke Low End, Reliability, with an Awesome 2-Stroke Pull through out the entire Power Band. But thats all hear say the only P.V. 2-Stroke motor I've ever had any dealings with is my 2001 GP-1200R WaveRunner that has Yamaha's "YPVS" and I really have no way of comparing it to a Banshee P.V. System. What do you guys think about the Trinity Power Valves? Brandon can you get me something thats equivalent or better thats Polished than the 358cc Cheetah Small Block for a better price? If I can get a Polished Serval Small Block or any other Mono Block that will save me money and give me the same end result I'm all for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted August 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Definately need bigger main jets about 155. Plus you are at 20CC domes? The smallest I have ever heard reccomended is 21cc on pump gas. I would throw in a gallon of high octane per every 5 gal at the minimum if I were you (unless you enjoy doing rebuilds). Good Luck and keep us posted on your results! . I'm defiantly going up on the mains. When we installed the 28mm Keihin "D" Slides we started with a #50 Pilots and a 160 Mains and it would chock it out, so I went to the next size I had which were 150 Mains and it seemed to run fine. When I was running the Stock 26mm Mikuni Carbs I had a Vito's Stage III Jet Kit with in them with #30 Pilots and 340 Mains. I emailed Kevin Herr at Herr Jugs Racing and talked to him about my different options, He told me if I wanted to stick with the upgraded bolt on parts I had I needed to contact Trinity and see what they had to offer. Jeff at FAST said he had Serval Small Block Set Up for $1095.00 and it included Mono Block Cylinder, pistons, stud extenders, water plugs, gaskets, bearings and everything I need to put it back together. But I see that he has Small Displacement Cheetah Small Blocks on his Web Site that come complete with Wieseco's Forged Top End Kit (Pistons, Rings, Clips, Pins Bearings, Gaskets, Wrist Pins, and Water Plugs) for $875.00 but the High Polished Block is an extra $200.00 through him but thats not saying we wont work with me on the price. As far as Fuel/Domes in concerned I used to run 2oz per gallon Klotz Octane Booster with 93 Octane Pump Gas or mix 93 and 100 Octane Aviation fuel 75/25, and almost every HQ Member I talked to on that thread said that it wasn't necessary that all I was doing is making my engine run hotter by adding the booster and I wasnt gaining anything by mixing the BLUE Fuel. They said that as long as I could get pump gas that was 91 Octane or higher that I would be fine. They said that company's like Trinity tell there customers that anything bellow 20cc Domes require race fuel because the highest Octane Fuel sold in a lot of states is 91 Octane. So I quit running an Octane additive and mixing AVI Fuel and I didn't notice any difference. This next go around I'll be mixing the 100 Octane Blue with 93 Octane Pump Fuel just so I'm on the safe side. Thank all you guys for all you input you have been so helpful, I haven't made up my mind on what set up I'll be going with so please keep comments coming. This Thread is going great!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotta_goatsfast Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Powervalves are casted in to the cylinder. Unless there are provisions casted in and blocked off??? then no you can't run powervalves later. I wouldn't run a cheetah... let alone a ported cheetah in anything but wide open dunes and drag racing/hill climbs. The 421 (or even 392cc) serval will make a ton more usable power than that cheetah. Also consider, are you willing to risk your money with a company who has above average "mistakes" and failures? Some Trinity customers support Trinity, but I'd hit a shop where ALL of the customers rave about it. I chose the serval setup from FAST racing. Anyway, a cheetah cylinder is already way more aggressive (which means a powerband coming on later and narrower, while hitting a lot harder) than the serval. And Trinity is going to carve on it more??? Unless your race class mandates maximum cc or bore size, I'd go for the 68mm bore in whatever you choose. Its ultimately your decision, but I'm telling you the extra bit of horsepower from 9000-10500rpm gained from the cheetah isn't going to make you faster at the track or the trail than a serval which would pull harder anywhere under that 9000rpm (with trail specific pipes and intake setup). Also, understand that cylinder compression at kicking speed is vastly different from the cylinder pressure during peak torque (when the pipe is most efficient at stuffing fuel and air back into the cylinder). A super high exhaust port will show less kicking compression than a stock port (because the lower exhaust port traps more air at such a slow speed), yet at high rpm the high exhaust port (along with the rest of a quality port job) will have drawn in way more air and allowed more of said air back through the exhaust port before the piston covers it, meaning way more air and fuel molecules to be squeezed in the same space. Thus, the highly ported cylinder that shows lower psi while kicking will indeed require MORE resistant fuel than the higher psi stock port. There are a ton of other factors to consider when choosing the right fuel. Simply put, you want the lowest octane fuel you can run WITHOUT detonating. Anything more and you'll be wasting money and loosing power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted August 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 Powervalves are casted in to the cylinder. Unless there are provisions casted in and blocked off??? then no you can't run powervalves later. I wouldn't run a cheetah... let alone a ported cheetah in anything but wide open dunes and drag racing/hill climbs. The 421 (or even 392cc) serval will make a ton more usable power than that cheetah. Also consider, are you willing to risk your money with a company who has above average "mistakes" and failures? Some Trinity customers support Trinity, but I'd hit a shop where ALL of the customers rave about it. I chose the serval setup from FAST racing. Anyway, a cheetah cylinder is already way more aggressive (which means a powerband coming on later and narrower, while hitting a lot harder) than the serval. And Trinity is going to carve on it more??? Unless your race class mandates maximum cc or bore size, I'd go for the 68mm bore in whatever you choose. Its ultimately your decision, but I'm telling you the extra bit of horsepower from 9000-10500rpm gained from the cheetah isn't going to make you faster at the track or the trail than a serval which would pull harder anywhere under that 9000rpm (with trail specific pipes and intake setup). Also, understand that cylinder compression at kicking speed is vastly different from the cylinder pressure during peak torque (when the pipe is most efficient at stuffing fuel and air back into the cylinder). A super high exhaust port will show less kicking compression than a stock port (because the lower exhaust port traps more air at such a slow speed), yet at high rpm the high exhaust port (along with the rest of a quality port job) will have drawn in way more air and allowed more of said air back through the exhaust port before the piston covers it, meaning way more air and fuel molecules to be squeezed in the same space. Thus, the highly ported cylinder that shows lower psi while kicking will indeed require MORE resistant fuel than the higher psi stock port. There are a ton of other factors to consider when choosing the right fuel. Simply put, you want the lowest octane fuel you can run WITHOUT detonating. Anything more and you'll be wasting money and loosing power. Thanks so much, you have been just the guy I needed to talk to about these set up options. I was just about to try to cut a deal with Trinity on the 358cc/65mm Small Block Cheetah when I thought I'd better check my BHQ Post and see if you had replied to the questions I ask you about the different builds and upgrades the other day. So you think Fast will give me the best deal on a Serval Mono Block Cylinder and Forged Wiseco top end kit? Trinity offered me there Polished 358cc/65mm Small Block Cheetah with NO Port and Polish Work for $775 Shipped. I can get the Forged Aluminum Wiseco 65mm Top End Kit to go with it. I emailed them and ask if they could cut me a deal on the Wiseco Kit if I bought the Cylinders from them and they were a little on the rude side. They told me that they were cutting me a unheard of price on the Polished Cheetah Cylinder, if it was out of my budget I needed to look into doing some kind of work with my stock cylinders. They told me the cheapest P.V. set up they had that would work in conjunction with my Hot Rods Replacement Crank was $2,400 plus shipping. Can you get the Serval with a Polished exterior finish? What cc Serval Cylinder would you get, and what do you think that set up will cost? You hit the nail on the head when you were talking about my riding style. I built a pretty good suspension that suits me and my riding style. I hate to bring it up because I know some of the HQ members will start bashing me and my bike. I've brought it up on a few threads and It turned into "lets bash this guys set up" party. 95% of all the Sport Quads (68) I race my brother (1989 Honda TRX-250R) and I are the only two 2-Strokes in the Hare Scrambles we race in. Most are newer 350cc-700cc 4-Stroke quads with minor bolt on performance parts like Pipes, Air Filters, Jets, Tuners. A few have Hot Cams, Titanium Valves, and fuel system upgrades or Carburetors, and even fewer like maybe 10-15 have aftermarket a arms, shocks, swing arms, aftermarket wheels and other expensive suspension mods. In today's world of the 450R's and Big CC Trail Monsters like the Raptor 700 you don't need a $3,000+ Suspension in order to be competitive in the "B" and "C" Class KORHS Races. I decided that I'd mod a Yamaha YFZR Suspension and use it. So I bought a Full Flight +3+1 12pt Adjustable A Arm Kit/Tie Rods with Chromoly Heims, a set of 2006 YFZ-450SE Shocks that had been set up by GT Thunder for a Banshee, and 2010 YFZ-450R Suspension Parts (Stock Steering Stem, Steering Stem Flag, Spindles, Brake Calipers, Brake Lines, Hubs, and Master Cylinder) Everything went together great and the geometry is perfect, the specs on my travel and wheel base is almost exactly the same specs that the 2010 YFZ-405R has when it rolls off the Yamaha assembly line. I've rode a stock 2010 YFZR and my Banshee rides and handles almost dead on it. The best part about my suspension set up is it is a vast improvement over the stock 2004 Banshee Suspension and It cost me a fraction of the price. (Total Priced Shipped was about $725.00). I'm happy with my Suspension Set Up, and I feel like the right Mono Block Cylinder Set Up will Finish my Endurance Banshee Build. The YFZR Brakes are a vast improvement over stock, I feel like I have the skeleton to put this motor in and have a bad ass bike. Please let me know what you think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinklerman Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 I'd cough up the extra 400.00 for a +4mm crank if it was me. Just sell your current one to offset the costs. Get the serval!! I'm running one on my play bike and it would be perfect for what you are wanting to do. your current mods will be compatible with it. I would probably look at some new domes (what ever FAST recommends ) to go with it. Mine dyno'd a solid 48-50 lb/ft of torque with a really flat curve...perfect for your type of racing. IMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotta_goatsfast Posted August 4, 2011 Report Share Posted August 4, 2011 I cannot make a promise to you that Jeff is going to be the cheapest. But I will tell you that his prices are VERY competitive. For the Serval cylinder with a clean up port (cleans up any casting flaws/slag) will be very comparable to what Trinity quoted you for the cheetah. I do not know what the difference in cost is for polished (I'll get it dirty anyway lol). There are a few members on here that would give you a great price and they do awesome work. Most of the guys do it on the side so its not nearly expensive as a full time shop. But if money is a concern, I wouldn't worry about polishing the cylinder. If I remember right, the whole top end cost just shy of $1100. This included the serval block, two rear stud extenders, two small nuts to sneak onto the front inner studs, base gasket, piston kit, domes cut to your fuel requirements, and a cool head o-ring kit. I picked up much more than that, however. I picked up a modified shift shaft, shift star, and easy shift spring and new shift forks for smoother shifting, magnum clutch basket, fast racing clutch kit, direct drive lock up and cover,factory ratio spur style drive gears (straight cuts), pancake bearing, chariot mega-flow impeller and machined cover, dyna-tek CDI, chariot machined stator cover with bearing support, and a case saver. Used parts I picked up were the hotrods crank (I measured everything to ensure it was in spec with hotrods tech info and replaced bearings) 35mm pwk carbs (new cable, filters) billet intake manifold, and cut stock style trans (has some dogs removed) Parts I re-used from previous motor was the pro-design cool head, large capacity radiator, V-force 3 reeds, moose stator with plate, and solid motor mounts. I tried CPI pipes and then moved to R2s and wouldn't look back. As for suspension.... remember that even if the measurements are identical from a yfz to your banshee in the front, seat position, foot peg position, weight, rear suspension-to-front suspension, handlebar location, steering geometry, and even front suspension mounting points/spacing is different between the two. What works great on a yfz is probably going to be yfz specific. You may find that down the road upgrading to a proven aftermarket banshee specific suspension will make you worlds faster than what you are now... and yfzs. I've ridden 450 quads.... and I would never want my engine in one of them (talking stock here). Way too much power for even a new-tech 450 suspension off the show room floor. I do run yfz450 brakes and masters and it really is a cheap alternative to stop REALLY quick. Now I'm straying off topic, lol. What the moral of my story is you are better off spending a few extra bucks for a quality part from a reputable shop. Jeff WILL answer his phone and he will spend an hour on the phone providing help/assistance if you need it. He won't bullshit you into buying parts you don't need, and he'll give you insider tips to these engines should you choose to build it yourself too. Sometimes saving $30 or $40 going to a so-so company is going to kick you in the ass later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted August 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 I cannot make a promise to you that Jeff is going to be the cheapest. But I will tell you that his prices are VERY competitive. For the Serval cylinder with a clean up port (cleans up any casting flaws/slag) will be very comparable to what Trinity quoted you for the cheetah. I do not know what the difference in cost is for polished (I'll get it dirty anyway lol). There are a few members on here that would give you a great price and they do awesome work. Most of the guys do it on the side so its not nearly expensive as a full time shop. But if money is a concern, I wouldn't worry about polishing the cylinder. If I remember right, the whole top end cost just shy of $1100. This included the serval block, two rear stud extenders, two small nuts to sneak onto the front inner studs, base gasket, piston kit, domes cut to your fuel requirements, and a cool head o-ring kit. I picked up much more than that, however. I picked up a modified shift shaft, shift star, and easy shift spring and new shift forks for smoother shifting, magnum clutch basket, fast racing clutch kit, direct drive lock up and cover,factory ratio spur style drive gears (straight cuts), pancake bearing, chariot mega-flow impeller and machined cover, dyna-tek CDI, chariot machined stator cover with bearing support, and a case saver. Used parts I picked up were the hotrods crank (I measured everything to ensure it was in spec with hotrods tech info and replaced bearings) 35mm pwk carbs (new cable, filters) billet intake manifold, and cut stock style trans (has some dogs removed) Parts I re-used from previous motor was the pro-design cool head, large capacity radiator, V-force 3 reeds, moose stator with plate, and solid motor mounts. I tried CPI pipes and then moved to R2s and wouldn't look back. As for suspension.... remember that even if the measurements are identical from a yfz to your banshee in the front, seat position, foot peg position, weight, rear suspension-to-front suspension, handlebar location, steering geometry, and even front suspension mounting points/spacing is different between the two. What works great on a yfz is probably going to be yfz specific. You may find that down the road upgrading to a proven aftermarket banshee specific suspension will make you worlds faster than what you are now... and yfzs. I've ridden 450 quads.... and I would never want my engine in one of them (talking stock here). Way too much power for even a new-tech 450 suspension off the show room floor. I do run yfz450 brakes and masters and it really is a cheap alternative to stop REALLY quick. Now I'm straying off topic, lol. What the moral of my story is you are better off spending a few extra bucks for a quality part from a reputable shop. Jeff WILL answer his phone and he will spend an hour on the phone providing help/assistance if you need it. He won't bullshit you into buying parts you don't need, and he'll give you insider tips to these engines should you choose to build it yourself too. Sometimes saving $30 or $40 going to a so-so company is going to kick you in the ass later. Jeff at Fast is great, I talked on the phone with him for over a hour yesterday afternoon discussing set ups. You were right the Polished 392cc Stock Stroke Serval is the set up he recommended for my Banshee and the type of riding I do. He said I would have hated the characteristics of the 358cc Cheetah Cub. The total cost on the Polished Small Displacement Stock Stroke Serval was about $1300. It would have been quit a bit cheaper but the Stock Stroke requires the Trinity exclusive Piston Kit that cost almost $300, and I have to buy a new set of Custom Domes from Trinity that cost $50.00. So the Polished Small Block and Gaskets ended up costing me around $950.00. I'm going to send Jeff money this week and get him started. Thanks so much for all your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted September 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 I cannot make a promise to you that Jeff is going to be the cheapest. But I will tell you that his prices are VERY competitive. For the Serval cylinder with a clean up port (cleans up any casting flaws/slag) will be very comparable to what Trinity quoted you for the cheetah. I do not know what the difference in cost is for polished (I'll get it dirty anyway lol). There are a few members on here that would give you a great price and they do awesome work. Most of the guys do it on the side so its not nearly expensive as a full time shop. But if money is a concern, I wouldn't worry about polishing the cylinder. If I remember right, the whole top end cost just shy of $1100. This included the serval block, two rear stud extenders, two small nuts to sneak onto the front inner studs, base gasket, piston kit, domes cut to your fuel requirements, and a cool head o-ring kit. I picked up much more than that, however. I picked up a modified shift shaft, shift star, and easy shift spring and new shift forks for smoother shifting, magnum clutch basket, fast racing clutch kit, direct drive lock up and cover,factory ratio spur style drive gears (straight cuts), pancake bearing, chariot mega-flow impeller and machined cover, dyna-tek CDI, chariot machined stator cover with bearing support, and a case saver. Used parts I picked up were the hotrods crank (I measured everything to ensure it was in spec with hotrods tech info and replaced bearings) 35mm pwk carbs (new cable, filters) billet intake manifold, and cut stock style trans (has some dogs removed) Parts I re-used from previous motor was the pro-design cool head, large capacity radiator, V-force 3 reeds, moose stator with plate, and solid motor mounts. I tried CPI pipes and then moved to R2s and wouldn't look back. As for suspension.... remember that even if the measurements are identical from a yfz to your banshee in the front, seat position, foot peg position, weight, rear suspension-to-front suspension, handlebar location, steering geometry, and even front suspension mounting points/spacing is different between the two. What works great on a yfz is probably going to be yfz specific. You may find that down the road upgrading to a proven aftermarket banshee specific suspension will make you worlds faster than what you are now... and yfzs. I've ridden 450 quads.... and I would never want my engine in one of them (talking stock here). Way too much power for even a new-tech 450 suspension off the show room floor. I do run yfz450 brakes and masters and it really is a cheap alternative to stop REALLY quick. Now I'm straying off topic, lol. What the moral of my story is you are better off spending a few extra bucks for a quality part from a reputable shop. Jeff WILL answer his phone and he will spend an hour on the phone providing help/assistance if you need it. He won't bullshit you into buying parts you don't need, and he'll give you insider tips to these engines should you choose to build it yourself too. Sometimes saving $30 or $40 going to a so-so company is going to kick you in the ass later. Thanks again for all your help, going through Jeff at F.A.S.T. when buying my set up was the best decision I made, and he beat everyone else on pricing by quite a bit . I plan on getting my bike back together this weekend. I just received my box of parts from F.A.S.T. yesterday and everything looks unbelievable. Jeff said this was the first set up like this that he had put together so I'm anxious to see how it runs. I set my Cool head on the cylinders yesterday and took a picture. I will be posting more pictures and updating you guys on my progress as I put it together...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted September 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2011 Well Guys I'm well on my way getting my New Polished Seval Cub back in my Banshee. I have turned a one night job into a every night this week job. I'm very meticulous when it comes to the Banshee and all my other Vehicle's. Heres what it looks like. I went ahead and put a few other upgrades on my bike while I was doing this build. I listed them bellow Red ASV Silicon Hoses 28mm Pro-Design Billet Intakes (with Boost Bottle) Polished left side Case Cover New PTR Exhaust Clamps Dyna-Tek Ignition Coil Dyna-Tek Programmable CDI New Accell 8.8mm Motor Cycle and ATV Racing Spark Plug Wires Polished Choke Knobs Shark Racing Billet Clamps Duncan Racing Rear Billet Brake Reservoir Mod-Quad Billet Cooler with Gauge Goodridge 1/4" ID Stainless Steel Braided ATV Fuel Line Kit Wiring Harness Design Engineering Fire Resistant Aluminized Sleeve Design Engineering Red Heat Protection Small Hose Loom OEM Heat Shield Spring for other Radiator Hose (I highly recommend you get a second hose spring if your running Paul Turner Pipes) I went ahead and added a second Fuel Petcock and installed it on the left side of the fuel tank so both Carburetors would have there own straw. I spent about a day research the internet for a OEM Yamaha Fuel Petcock that had the same flow rate as the Banshee's Fuel Petcock that had the outlet facing in the opposite direction and I finally found one. The Yamaha V-Star 1300 has a fuel Petcock with the same flow rate as the Banshee for those of you who are thinking about adding a second OE Style Fuel Petcock. After looking at the pictures I need to take both Petcock covers off and give them a good polishing job. After I get it fine tuned I'm going to get back to the 12V Electric Fan set up. If I can get that figured out that just leaves me with a few more things I would like to add. Trail Tech Vapor and Billet Handle Bar Pod 250 Watt Stator High Output Flywheel (more magnets) Maybe I'll add those Mods to my Christmas list. Thanks again guys for all you help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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