fleury_xlt Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Hi, I have a 2006 Banshee, Pro circuit pipe, shaved head .020, K&N + open box. I have a 270 main jet + 27.5 pilot jet and i'm 400ft. over sea. Plugs are brown chocolate. Carb's are clean and synchronized (With F.A.S.T. Synch tool), Tors removed, air fliter is clean. Air screw at 2¼ turns, needle 3thr clip. Reed's are good. (140 PSI on each side). MY QUESTION IS : When i'm drag racing : there some lag between shift, then the engine goes ok. The acceleration is strong and the top end too. The lag is around 7000-8000 rpm ( I guest) when i'm ready to shift next speed. But sometime he didn't do it, that's never the same. I'm really confused !! Any Ideas please ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Could be the clutch slipping some. Does it sound like it revs up a bit right after you shift? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleury_xlt Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Could be the clutch slipping some. Does it sound like it revs up a bit right after you shift? No ! My clutch is a brand new F.A.S.T racing with heavy duty spring and it's adjusted right ! Thanks for your suggestion !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleury_xlt Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Anyone please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 needle postion,richen it up all the way first,if nothing lean it out all the way.I do big jumps first to see if im heading in the rite direction then fine tune.IMO a trail shifted bike should run a rich needle setting,when your letting off to shift the rich clip postion holds the needle out of the pocket longer allowing the cylinder to recoupe fuel before you let it have it again,just a thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleury_xlt Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 needle postion,richen it up all the way first,if nothing lean it out all the way.I do big jumps first to see if im heading in the rite direction then fine tune.IMO a trail shifted bike should run a rich needle setting,when your letting off to shift the rich clip postion holds the needle out of the pocket longer allowing the cylinder to recoupe fuel before you let it have it again,just a thought Thanks ! I'll try that this weekend. That's one of the only thing I didn't try, and that's sound good ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burt Reynolds Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 is it missing? Or just sluggish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleury_xlt Posted May 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 is it missing? Or just sluggish Sluggish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 raise clip ONE position. then add ful on main. try 280/290/300 if still laggy. buy TOOMEY jet kit and install the needles they offer. it will run excellent after that. dont overrev too far on accell. if your in overrev on the pipes and shift they can be unloaded and not come back on right away. shift right after the power seems to drop then train yourself to shift just before that happens. shift at the peak of the power.. fmf fattys have a distinctive flat spot on top they wil still rev but will fall off on power. t-5's is very distinctive. its easier to train with those pipes.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleury_xlt Posted May 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 raise clip ONE position. then add ful on main. try 280/290/300 if still laggy. buy TOOMEY jet kit and install the needles they offer. it will run excellent after that. dont overrev too far on accell. if your in overrev on the pipes and shift they can be unloaded and not come back on right away. shift right after the power seems to drop then train yourself to shift just before that happens. shift at the peak of the power.. fmf fattys have a distinctive flat spot on top they wil still rev but will fall off on power. t-5's is very distinctive. its easier to train with those pipes.. Thanks a lots !!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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