vinnycuz Posted April 26, 2011 Report Share Posted April 26, 2011 (edited) A little history, purchased a 2004 Banshee completely stock a few months back. Since then performed the following: 1) Installed K&N Air Filter - Stock Aitbox - No Lid 2) Installed VForce 3 Reeds 3) Installed Chariot Timing Plate - +4 Set - (used Vito's Flywheel Puller to remove Flywheel properly) 4) Installed Toomey T5 Full Exchaust 5) Sent out carbs to be Jetted, Cleaned, Sync'ed and TORS Removal Kir installed - Jetting done based on my mods and elevation - Thanks WickedATV After all said and done the bike won't start at all. I cut the wires out of the harness from the TORS system. I did not re-splice them or connect them anywhere. I have been reading that on an 03 and up you have to splice the TORS wires to one another? I could not find any instructions on this one. Could this be the issue? I also noticed, when I purchased the Banshee, the Run/On/Off did nothing. As long as the key was On the bike would kick start. Is this a problem? I do smell gas when I try to crank it but not starting, not even trying. Thanks for any advice. --Vinny Edited April 26, 2011 by vinnycuz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bucks Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 missing choke tube? also are you getting spark? are you running a stock thumb throttle?, if so unplug the wire that goes to the thumb throttle, and try that, or dont give it any throttle when kicking it over and see if it trys to start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banshee xXx Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 if you still have the parking break cut the wire on that if it malfunctions it will not let you give it any gas at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 +1 on the little black TORS control box beside the ignition coil/wires and harness leading to thumb throttle. Me and Stacman450 found that one out the hard way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinnycuz Posted May 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 +1 on the little black TORS control box beside the ignition coil/wires and harness leading to thumb throttle. Me and Stacman450 found that one out the hard way. The entire TORS was cut out of the harness to clean it up after I got the TORS professionally removed, including the throttle harness plug. UPDATE: 5/1/11 I found no spark coming to the plugs. I started from beginning and although I do not have the proper Ohm tester (mine starts at 200), I found that when removing the flywheel I bent the hell out of the Stator in multiple points. I am going to replace it and see what happens. I also tried to push start it but it would kick over then stall out after a few seconds and I could not give gas at all. Also, my Chariot timing plate is measured at 0.044 from the flywheel to the pickup coil, instead of the recommended spec of 0.020. Is this normal for a adjustable timing plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinnycuz Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 UPDATE: 5/12/2011 Ok, I got a good working OEM Stator, installed it with the Chariot timing plate, put her all back together, kicked it about 20 times and she started up (with choke all the way open). It stalled and then I was able to kick it over with only 3 kicks, after idling for about 2 mins I put the choke back in and took her for a ride around the block. By the time I got half way around the block, she bogged down and would not let me give gas, stalled and now refuses to start. I pulled the plus and they were wet, I let them dry and sprayed them with canned air & wiped them down. Still no start. Could it be the timing is busted? I was reading about the carb bowls being installed wrong but I had the TORS Removal Kit, Jet, Carb Sync and Rebuild done by Wicked so I dont think this is the problem. Any advice where to look next? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Profilact Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 (edited) UPDATE: 5/12/2011 Ok, I got a good working OEM Stator, installed it with the Chariot timing plate, put her all back together, kicked it about 20 times and she started up (with choke all the way open). It stalled and then I was able to kick it over with only 3 kicks, after idling for about 2 mins I put the choke back in and took her for a ride around the block. By the time I got half way around the block, she bogged down and would not let me give gas, stalled and now refuses to start. I pulled the plus and they were wet, I let them dry and sprayed them with canned air & wiped them down. Still no start. Could it be the timing is busted? I was reading about the carb bowls being installed wrong but I had the TORS Removal Kit, Jet, Carb Sync and Rebuild done by Wicked so I dont think this is the problem. Any advice where to look next? Thanks. You are not getting spark so stay on that track. Your pickup gap is too big...it needs to be at .020...We know its not a wiring problem because you said it ran for a bit. Set your pickup gap and try it. Edited May 12, 2011 by Profilact Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinnycuz Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 You are not getting spark so stay on that track. Your pickup gap is too big...it needs to be at .020...We know its not a wiring problem because you said it ran for a bit. Set your pickup gap and try it. Will do and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted May 15, 2011 Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 first thing- you do not re-connect any of the tors wires on any year. your killswitch probably just needs a cleaning, however, if the wire came off the back of the switch, then it can touch ground and kill the spark. make sure the black/white wire is not seeing ground. make sure the black/red does with the key on. check for melting at the exhaust pipe. most likely thing- your flywheel spun off. very common with recent removal. you need to torque it on the flywheel, and use blue loctite. i believe it's 80ft-lbs on the nut, but you can just run it on with an impact. do not ever stick anything in the holes to hold it steady, rather, lock it in 6th and hold the brake, if you don't have an impact. the best way is to stick a penny in the gears if you have the clutch cover off already. also, it should never be that hard to get it started. if cold, 2-3 kicks max with the choke, and 1-2 kicks no choke when hot/warm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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