andrew3160 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Good plug chop will show a smoke ring about as thick as a dime. Warm the bike up, then shut it off and put a new plug in. Run it pinned through 6th and pull the clutch in, shut off, and coast to a stop. pull the plug out and replace with an old one to get back to the shop to do the chop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figuare9 Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Good plug chop will show a smoke ring about as thick as a dime. Warm the bike up, then shut it off and put a new plug in. Run it pinned through 6th and pull the clutch in, shut off, and coast to a stop. pull the plug out and replace with an old one to get back to the shop to do the chop. What exactly does that indicate? I know the little light brown ring is good, but what if it's not? maybe thicker/darker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glamis321 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 thicker or darker means your running richer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew3160 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 What exactly does that indicate? I know the little light brown ring is good, but what if it's not? maybe thicker/darker. Thicker and darker = richer. Thiner and lighter = leaner. You want the smoke ring to be the thickness of a dime and dark enough to tell clearly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glamis321 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Read this its a little long but very interesting! Run it hard It says near the top that these principals apply to all 4 stroke engines...any reason why it would be different for a 2stroke? also, if you type in an email at the bottom, you can get to parts 2-5 of the break in secrets. Basically says the same shit over and over again tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figuare9 Posted April 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2011 Thanks for the replies. I really appreciate all of the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figuare9 Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 So.. I just got done talking to an extremely sharp mechanic. He had told me a few things.. Breaking in a motor is as technical as it sounds. You literally BREAK things in to fit right. Wearing down highspots, etc. Already knew this though.. But he did give me some good advice.. He said to run it pretty hard if it's just a new top end, but since i'm getting new bearings, crank, piston rings, porting and headwork, that i shouldn't try to beat on it too hard. Told me to try to find a good happy middle between gettin on it, and being gentle. I want to seat the rings, but I don't want to be too hard on the new internals. He said the best thing I could do is take it really easy for the first 10-15 minutes, and easy into getting on it hard. Should allow any wearing to occur during taking it easy, and the rings should be seated shortly after. So basically, take it really easy for a bit, then get on it hard. Of course stopping in between the two to retorque anything that may be loose, and to let the motor cool. Any thoughts on his suggestion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 when we say run it hard we dont mean go out and do a full on drag launch. once you are comfortable its solid open that bitch up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew3160 Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 So.. I just got done talking to an extremely sharp mechanic. He had told me a few things.. Breaking in a motor is as technical as it sounds. You literally BREAK things in to fit right. Wearing down highspots, etc. Already knew this though.. But he did give me some good advice.. He said to run it pretty hard if it's just a new top end, but since i'm getting new bearings, crank, piston rings, porting and headwork, that i shouldn't try to beat on it too hard. Told me to try to find a good happy middle between gettin on it, and being gentle. I want to seat the rings, but I don't want to be too hard on the new internals. He said the best thing I could do is take it really easy for the first 10-15 minutes, and easy into getting on it hard. Should allow any wearing to occur during taking it easy, and the rings should be seated shortly after. So basically, take it really easy for a bit, then get on it hard. Of course stopping in between the two to retorque anything that may be loose, and to let the motor cool. Any thoughts on his suggestion? Is your motor already built? If so, I am curious as to why you have not broke it in yet and why we are still on this topic. As stated above and with all the advice you have, I would hope you have a decent idea on what to do. Run 32:1 while breaking in. On first idle, blip the throttle every few seconds or so for about 4 or 5 min or until it is warm. Ride it making sure it isn't hitting the top of power band varying the rpms. When you are done, re-torque everything and be easy on it for about 2 tanks (3 if your worried like me when I did mine) before ripping on the strip. I have about 45 gallons through mine now and still no issues. Make sure to do a plug chop after break in to get it dialed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jbevan81 Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 Here is how I have done break-ins over the last 17 or so years. 1. After a rebuild I have NEVER run any different oil than I race with (Used Klotz, Burris, Maxima, etc.) 2. For the first fire, (we have always run computers on our stuff ((RPM, EGT, Head Temp, Water Temp) we ran the motor to maybe 100 degree's. Occasionally blipping the throttle when it sounded a little loaded up. 3. Let cool to room temp, and repeat letting it get a bit hotter. (like others have said you are wearing in the parts to each other and seating rings and what not.) 4. Take it to the track, dunes, mud, whatever and give it a good 10-15min of running easy to do a heat cycle under load. 5. Give her hell. I know this seems like a long process, but you will be rewarded with a cylinder that is long lasting and STILL ROUND when you get done. Plus you wont have as much scoring in the cylinder (if everything was built right to begin with) when it comes time to tear down again. Just my 2 cents from breaking in motors well over 100 times in the past 17 or so years. Jeff Is your motor already built? If so, I am curious as to why you have not broke it in yet and why we are still on this topic. As stated above and with all the advice you have, I would hope you have a decent idea on what to do. Run 32:1 while breaking in. On first idle, blip the throttle every few seconds or so for about 4 or 5 min or until it is warm. Ride it making sure it isn't hitting the top of power band varying the rpms. When you are done, re-torque everything and be easy on it for about 2 tanks (3 if your worried like me when I did mine) before ripping on the strip. I have about 45 gallons through mine now and still no issues. Make sure to do a plug chop after break in to get it dialed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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